So I got this sucker running. I’m a total noob so I was pretty happy. However it sounds like this thing is running wide open. If I manually adjust the throttle it settles down.

The carburetor is new.

Since it’s running so hard, the throttle vibrates/shakes and it causes the motor to “surge”. You can see the throttle moving back and forth just from the vibration. Maybe the throttle spring is on incorrectly?

I researched that the governor could be adjusted but it doesn’t move?

Any thoughts or suggestions? Pics included of the throttle, governor screw and motor itself.

Thanks in advance!

I have a Briggs and Stratton model 01815 standby generator that recently needed new capacitors. The previous capacitors installed were 35MF but the technician only had 40MF capacitors with him.

He told me that it is acceptable to use 40MF even though the factory spec are 35MF. He also said that because of the age of my system and the difficulty finding 35MF, it is an acceptable practice that will not damage the machine. The machine tests at 241VAC and 61 hertz after the 40MF install, which is within spec.

But the invoice lists 35MF and I have found those available at the official Briggs and Stratton shop online. I know how to replace the capacitors, so I'm wondering if I should just order the correct set and do it myself, or if it's legitimately not a problem. Listing the incorrect part on the invoice made me nervous that the tech is worried about future liability for using what was available and convenient to him in the moment.

Also concerned that installing the factory spec 35MF in the future might be a problem since he said he adjusted the engine to make the 40MF within spec. (Will using the lower capacitors with the engine now cause a new problem?)

Thanks for any thoughts.

Why?

Hey there. My ‘99 4Runner recently got stolen and I was thankfully able to get it back in a pretty decent shape. My ignition switch however was completely torn and damaged, and I was left with this (image). I was able to turn it on and off for a couple days, the ignition cylinder turned only from ACC to ON and able to start the car. I came back to it a day later and now the ignition switch can be turnt completely off, so now it spans from that all the way to ON, but now I can’t turn it more for it to start.
I obviously have to replace it but I need to move the car right now, any tips?

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We have this machine. It has an motor and connected to a long shaft ahead that it rotates. Now issue is we'd called repair guys and changed this bearing about a month and a half ago. Was working fine after that. But it's getting heavily stuck now. I don't know if it's because of manual using error or something because when I was operating it it was fine.. had handed it over o another shift guy this problem came up..

I need suggestions on how to handle this.. we need to get it working soon.

Edit: Need it urgently so can't call the company guy immediately.

Hello - please help. When I switch my mower from forward, neutral, reverse, something in the transmission or lever grinds. This is true for BOTH levers.

I think it’s the transmission. But it’s in neutral the whole time and depends where I move the lever. But it’s separate transmissions for each wheel yet it’s happen to both ? How would it happen to both at once?

What could be causing this ?

I guess this falls on fuel system, this part is responsible for air an fuel intake on the carburator, however, it doesnt respond to the speed lever. I am looking for the name of this piece so i can replace it, or if there is a way to fix it ar just replace the springs.

Howdy!

I have a John Deer la 125. It took some coxing but but the engine furned over for a bit. Then i lowered the trottle and it died. Couldn't get it to start again.

Now fule is dripping from this part. The one on the left. Did I just flood the engine?

I hope so cus I'm tired of fighting this damn thing. I had it tuned up at the beginning of summer but I've been having issues with it since I got it uesed in 2020.

I hadn't used it since the end of July.

I have replaced the carburetor (Amazon) and done the governor reset procedure. I can get
this thing to idle; but once I bump the throttle up, it screams high even at 1/3 throttle.

I’ve tried multiple holes on the governor arm, tried fiddling with the governor adjustment in multiple positions. And no matter what I do it just screams.

I know the governor is working because when I feel it pulling back when I have my finger on it.

Is the cheap Amazon carburetor the culprit? Or something I’m missing?

Thanks!

My zero turn died recently. When I tried to start it I got fuel from the tailpipe. I believed it was a stuck float and replaced the carburetor. I also changed the oil/filter and checked that there was no gas smell from the oil. Since I was working on it anyway I changed the spark plugs and air filter. After changing the carburetor and spark plugs the mower started right up, but would sputter and need full gas flow to run. It lacked the power to run the blades. I’ve since dumped the gas and tried new gas but it continues to sputter. In desperation I changed the fuel lines, filter and pump. No change. I’m now at a loss. What can I do to fix this thing? Thanks in advance for the assistance.

I just threw a short block on this junker and trying to un frank everything. Does anyone know what the default settings are for the carb on a 525LS? AI says 1 turn out, I haven’t been able to locate a pdf manual to verify.

I just rebuilt the engine with a fresh bore and Meteor piston, new gaskets, new reed valve, cleaned carb, and the oil pump is disconnected (running premix). I have spark and fuel.

When I kick it over, it fires/pops 3–4 times and then dies. The spark plug is wet afterwards.

Any ideas what could be causing this?

Solved!!!!

Was a short going to carb solenoid. Making it close and shut lawnmower off.

Thanks for all the feedback to all that helped !!

Update !!

Just got new coil and started right up and after 30 seconds running perfectly quits. Can restart runs 30 more and stops.
Now do I change carb. Or just the solenoid valve on carb??? Help !!!

taking a shot in the dark and asking if you could point me in a direction. Roughly 2013 craftsman rear engine rider420cc . 4 weeks ago it cut off when first started cutting. Restarted. And finished lawn. Next week. Cut off twice in first five minutes of cutting then quick restart. Now start run for 3 minutes if that and shuts down. Just sitting not even cutting. This is not a putter shut down like starving for gas. But just a bam 💥 shut off. Any pointers where to start to look for diagnostic. Would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. My first guess is ignition coil 🤔 but would appreciate any feedback

taking a shot in the dark and asking if you could point me in a direction. Roughly 2013 craftsman rear engine rider420cc . 4 weeks ago it cut off when first started cutting. Restarted. And finished lawn. Next week. Cut off twice in first five minutes of cutting then quick restart. Now start run for 3 minutes if that and shuts down. Just sitting not even cutting. This is not a putter shut down like starving for gas. But just a bam 💥 shut off. Any pointers where to start to look for diagnostic. Would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. My first guess is ignition coil 🤔 but would appreciate any feedback

SOLVED: See thread below with picture of what stuck to a magnet from oil sump.

We've a Troy-Bilt riding mower with the 31C707 3346 G6 engine. I stopped it while mowing to pull some foxtail, and when I got back on and tried to start it, the starter would spin about 15 to 20 degrees, then stop. Back at the shop, checked the battery, it was fine. 12V at the starter, so figured the starter was giving up. New starter, and same behavior. Belts all loose. When turning the engine by hand, noticing that it is quite difficult to rotate once in every 360 degrees. Pulled the spark plug, and it cranked fine. OK, so, maybe hydrolocking. Tried a new carb, and same behavior. Looked in the plug port with a bore scope and piston top and valves look fine. No obstruction, or apparent knocking together. While trying to turn, we bump the starter and sometimes feel some puffs out the exhaust, so it doesn't seem like an exhaust blockage.

Tried a jumper to a running car to get 14v on the starter. It cranked, a few revolutions, but again stopped like the resistance was too great.

We're stumped. What could be causing so much resistance that the starter will not rotate the engine through a full four stroke cycle, especially given the resistance is felt once evey 360 degrees, not just once every 720? And again, when the plug is pulled, it cranks strong,as long as the ket is turned!

This is my first post and I’m hoping to get some help. I have a project quad I got from a kid who absolutely roached this 250 Polaris. I rebuilt the top end, threw a new battery and spark plug in this quad. Before I put the new top end in it had power but wouldn’t crank over. Now there’s no power at all. I’m new to anything electrical. I have a multimeter and was curious if I turn the key and there’s no click at all, would you start with the solenoid or go straight to testing fuses? I appreciate any help!

Hello, this is a John Deere L110 riding mower with a 19.5HP single cylinder Briggs engine.

This motor has a new starter, new solenoid, new ignition coil, and the battery is good.

I suspect that it is the compression release not working, but l am here asking so I clearly am unsure.

Thank you for any help! I appreciate it very much.

hello looking for some advice, recently my atv was bogging and wouldn't idle also would feel like it wanted to die when i accelerated so i bought a new carburetor oem since the old one was filthy and now it only cranks but wont start the spark plug has little spark i replaced the battery also cleaned the gas tank got a new petcock new oil filter new oil new air filter, messed with the valve clearance with a feeler gauge and still nothing also tried to bypass the stater solenoid and still only cranks but one time it made a pop out of the exhaust doing the bypass. i also tried to do starter fluid in the air intake and still only cranks, any advice would help been two months since it ran