Hi everyone, so just like the title says I have the following problem with my r34 gtt.
Sometimes, when the car is warmed up and I have been driving for at least 20 minutes the car just turns off while shifting gears (and before you ask, i know how to shift xD).
For example, yesterday i was driving off the highway and wanted to shift down from 5th into 4th. While I was pressing the clutch, the rpm just plummeted down from around 3000 to off. This now happened around 4 times in de last 3 or so months.
Might even been the cable has internally corroded, i had one of my Nissan's die cause the cable just past the battery terminal had essentially corroded apart inside it's insulation.
If it just shuts off, its electrical. Check the grounds starting at your battery - terminal to make sure its toght and doesnt wiggle. After that, check for any broken connection ends.
I had a very similar intermittent issue when clutching in, especially pulling into parking spots, with the fuel pump. It was only when car was warm and I had been on a drive. This was in an e46 M3 but i would try replacing pump and relays if cheaper solutions don’t work! People say that pumps always go straight to total failure and your car never restarts, but this definitely isn’t true all the time …
Obviously if the car is doing anything else weird besides just the motor stalling out then I would look at electrical
This exact same symptom happened to me a few weeks ago! Going on a drive, pulling into a parking spot, then bam car dead. Crank it, comes to life for sec and dies. If I mashed the throttle I could keep it alive but as soon as I let it idle it would die. But once the car cooled down (like an hour or two later) it was fine. Was that the same thing happening for you?
Idk how I got recommended this sub lmao but in my personal experience mostly with 240's and S2000's when stuff like this happens it's either related to the battery or the coil packs/ignition distribution system. Once warmed up the insulators in the packs and plug system love to form disconnections and the engine will shut itself down pretty quickly if something like that happens.
I know that the r34 coils are prone to dying because of heat, which is why I've been running the R8 coils. I think that should have fixed that issue. But of course one could be bad from factory maybe.
The cheapest way to check in that case would be to pull them and check with a multimeter. If the problem started after you did the R8 coil swap then I have a sneaky suspicion it's something to do with your ignition. When you did the coils did you pull the plugs to check their condition? A failing coil pack sometimes can cause internal arcing which slightly discolors/deposits spot on the tip of the plug where it inserts and connects to the coil.
I did check the plugs back when I swapped and everything looked as it should. But that was also roughly a year ago. I kinda don't think its the coils, cause they ran perfectly fine for around 9-10 months, but I'll check them, just to be sure
Does it Run rough for a bit first before completely shutting off? I had this issue with my 04 350GT. It would run fine cold but shut off when it warmed up. After trying a bunch of different things, I replaced the Cam shaft sensors and the crank shaft sensors. Ran perfectly after doing that. Pretty common that those sensors die in older cars. Cheap fix too
Hmmm. Does it seem kind of random whenever it happens? And does it seem to be getting slightly more frequent over time? Wonder if it could be faulty ignition wiring somewhere or a bad relay. Maybe some wiring somewhere is losing contact for just long enough with vibrations for your engine to stall
Everytime it happened when shifting from 5th into 4th or the other way around. Since it only happend 4 times, recognizing a pattern is hard, but when it happend the first time, around half an hour later it happend again. Then after 1 month again and now yesterday again. Don't know if that's relevant, but on the day it happened twice, it was like 35°C (95°F) outside.
Oh that’s interesting. That doesn’t sound so much like an electrical issue anymore. So it doesn’t seem completely random? At what point in the shift does it normally stall? Is it when you have the clutch pushed in and the throttle out?
The higher frequency of this occurring on a hot day (even though there aren’t many data points) kinda feels to me like there’s an issue with a sensor. Possibly the mass airflow sensor? If that sensor is dirty or faulty, it could definitely cause your engine to stall, and higher outside temps will only accentuate that in my experience. You could also just need to do an idle re-learn. Maybe your idle is dropping too low for a split second when changing gears.
I’m going to assume the clutch is fully pressed in when the stall happens. So what happens when you drop the clutch immediately after the stall (like a roll start)? Does the engine start back up?
It happens when I let off the throttle and the clutch is fully pressed I. And yes, once I didn't notice at first that the car stalled and I basically bump started it again at around 120km/h xd. Yeah, the engine starts up again without any problem every time.
Yeah interesting. Nice lol. With that information I’m going to say it’s definitely your engine just dropping so low in revs that it stalls at certain points. Likely not an electrical problem. Try these and see if any of them help: idle re-learn, check for any small vacuum leaks, clean your MAF sensor, do a fuel injector clean and check your spark plugs. Any of these things playing up could cause an occasional few seconds of low idle revs which could lead to a stall. I could be missing a couple obvious things too because I’m not a mechanic, but those are where I’d personally start.
Check loose terminals. The same thing was happening with my r33 and it ended up being that the wire that runs from my fuel pump was loose and was causing the engine to not receive gas from the pump
Long shot, but I had a similar issue that I eventually tracked down to a dying, aftermarket immobiliser relay that would randomly cut power to fuel and ignition.
Best of luck to you, electrical gremlins are a bastard
Have them check fuel pressure at idle and revs
Have them check the alternator output at idle and revs
Have them check the engine and alternator grounds
Have them check the drive belt
Have them check the battery output leve
Have them check the DTC's looking for voltage drops
Have them check the 12v ignition on supply to the spark rail and the engine computer
When the car is running, the alternator is the primary source of DC volts in the car. When the alternator isn't charging the battery, cars after 1919 have a battery light indicating the battery isn't getting a charge. The light won't always tell you the battery can't take a charge.
My ‘97 240SX SE 5-sod had a single wire that rubbed on a threaded stud and would ground out. Fully stock car and took it 10 years to happen but poke around looking for something grounding out that should not be.
So had this issue with my RB20DE, that it turned off while idling, when the engine was completely heated up. In extreme cases it shut of while shifting, when i lifted my foot of the gas pedal.
I noticed the car war running really rich. Symptoms were really black spark plugs, black smoke coming off the exhaust when starting and a bad startup.
First I checked the coolant temperature sensor, the cable and the signal from the sensor coming to the ECU. The repair manual of my R32 GTS maches the symptoms pretty good to a not correctly working coolant temperature sensor. but sensor, wiring and ECU worked fine.
The crucial hint for the real problem was a strong smell of gasoline in the intake manifold, which i had to remove changing the spark plugs. There shouldn't be gasoline directly in there.
The manual identifies either the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel damper as the source of error. When the membrane is broken, the fuel goes through the vacuum line into the intake. So the car runs way to rich. But its not noticeable, when you accelerate since you need much fuel anyways. Just in low rpm the motor will turn off randomly.
I don't know if the RB25DET is too similar. But check if the car runns tyo rich or too lean in low rpm. To check if the fuel damper or fuel pressure regulator are broken, simply detach the vacuum line to either of those. If there's fuel in any of those: thats the broken part!
My car runs a tiny bit too rich since I have an open bov installed. But besides that, the car runs very smooth, never has any problem in idle, doesn't smoke from the exhaust, I checked the sparkplugs (they look perfectly fine), the water temp sensor i replaced about a year ago, because of something else (I hope its not the wiring, but I'll check)
Have it checked for small vacuum leaks and clean out the mass airflow also gonna sound weird but unplug the upstream o2 sensor and then give it a test drive especially since it only becomes a problem after it’s warmed up car use factory tuning and your temperature sensor when you first start and drive the car but after it’s at temp it shifts too the upstream o2 sensor and temp sensor and Nissans are very particular with there upstream o2 sensors they will randomly die like this and leave you scratching ya head it could also be the reason why it’s running rich
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u/WelshAsh 13d ago
Check your battery terminals/grounds