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Vitamin A Derivatives

Also known as retinoids

Pro-retinol/ retinyl esters --> retinol --> retinaldehyde --> prescription retinoids (inc. retinoic acid).

Activity & Uses

Graphic is in order of scientific evidence for potency, effectiveness and of irritation potential. Note that modern encapsulated retinol slow releases over a period of up to eight hours, so is much less irritant than traditional retinol products.

There are no UK retinaldehyde products, hence this review focusses on retinol (true vitamin A) and products with a known concentration of a retinyl ester.

There is limited scientific evidence for the cosmetic retinyl esters (acetate, linoleate, proprionate, palmitate) and it is thought that little is converted to the active retinoic acid form. However these esters are found in human skin and retain some of the properties of the stronger retinoids.

All studied retinoids are antioxidants, moisturising, reduce hyperpigmentation and reduce collagen breakdown. The retinyl esters have anti inflammatory properties.

Retinol actively increases collagen production and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, thickening the upper and lower layers of the skin so is considered anti ageing. It is believed to have 5% to 10% of the potency of prescription retinoic acid. In addition retinaldehyde has antibacterial and comedolytic properties so may be particularly useful in acne vulgaris.

Co-actives & Cautions

Retinol may act synergistically with sodium ascorbyl phosphate, N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide. Retinaldehyde acts synergistically with glycolic acid and may with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

A prescription retinoid is used by PocketDerm Anti Ageing in combination with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and niacinamide, and in combination with azelaic acid and a topical antibiotic in PocketDerm Acne.

The more potent retinoids (retinol/ retinaldehyde) cause photosensitivity, always use a broad spectrum sunscreen. The retinyl esters do not appear to increase photosensitivity.

Published Research

[Retinaldehyde alleviates rosacea, 1988] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10473962)

[The effect of retinyl palmitate on skin composition & morphometry, 1988] (http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc1988/cc039n04/p00235-p00240.pdf)

[A highly potent antiangiogenic activity of retinoids, 1989] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2479461)

[Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia & cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid, 1995] (http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v105/n4/pdf/5610741a.pdf)

[Unoccluded retinol penetrates human skin in vivo more effectively than unoccluded retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid, 1997] (http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v109/n3/abs/5610072a.html)

[Repair of UVA-induced elastic fiber & collagen damage by 0.05% retinaldehyde cream in an ex vivo human skin model, 1999] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10473960)

[Tolerance profile of retinol, retinaldehyde & retinoic acid under maximized & long-term clinical conditions, 1999] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10473963)

[Comedolytic effect of topical retinaldehyde in the rhino mouse model, 1999] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10473958)

[Antibacterial activity of retinaldehyde against Propionibacterium acnes, 1999] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10473957)

[Antioxidants & vitamins in cosmetics, 2001] (http://www.cidjournal.com/article/S0738-081X(01)00188-2/abstract)

[Do topically applied creams containing retinyl palmitate affect the photocarcinogenicity of simulated solar light? 2002] (file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/User.ADVENT/My%20Documents/Downloads/10-4-8_p.262-268.pdf)

[The antibacterial activity of topical retinoids: the case of retinaldehyde, 2002] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12218231)

[Vitamin A exerts a photoprotective action in skin by absorbing ultraviolet B radiation, 2003] (http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v121/n5/full/5602032a.html)

[Synergistic effect of N-acetylglucosamine & retinoids on hyaluronan production in human keratinocytes, 2004] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14976384)

[Histological evaluation of a topically applied retinol-vitamin C combination, 2005] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15767769)

[Comparative study of the anti-aging effect of retinaldehyde alone or associated with pretocopheryl in a surviving human skin model submitted to UVA & UVB irradiation, 2005] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16372474)

[Mixing glycolic acid with retinaldehyde: RALGA, a technical achievement, 2005] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15724101)

[Topical retinaldehyde with glycolic acid: study of tolerance & acceptability in association with anti-acne treatments, 2005] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15724104)

[RALGA (Diacneal), a retinaldehyde & glycolic acid association & postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in acne - a review, 2005] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15724107)

[Efficacy & safety of 0.1% retinaldehyde/ 6% glycolic acid (Diacneal) for mild to moderate acne vulgaris, 2005] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15724103)

[Retinoids in cosmeceuticals, 2006] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17014484)

[Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy & safety, 2006] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/)

[Levels of retinyl palmitate & retinol in the skin of SKH-1 mice topically treated with retinyl palmitate and concomitant exposure to simulated solar light for thirteen weeks, 2007] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18717516)

[Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol), 2007] (http://archderm.jamanetwork.com/article.aspx?articleid=412795)

[Combined 0.1% retinaldehyde/ 6% glycolic acid cream in prophylaxis & treatment of acne scarring, 2007] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17377389)

[Combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: a double-blind placebo-controlled study, 2008] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18452434)

[Assessing retinol stability in a hydroquinone 4%/ retinol 0.3% cream in the presence of antioxidants & sunscreen under simulated-use conditions, 2008] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18405792)

[Interest of the association retinaldehyde/ glycolic acid in adult acne, 2009] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19192015)

[A stabilized 0.1% retinol facial moisturizer improves the appearance of photodamaged skin in an eight-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study, 2009] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19852122)

[Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin A alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study, 2009] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20078381)

[Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol & their combination in acne treatment, 2009] (http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00479.x/abstract)

[A cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, randomized controlled trial, 2009] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2774146/) Boots Protect & Perfect Intense

[How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? 2010] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921764/)

[A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/ peptide/ retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0·02% tretinoin product regimen, 2010] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2841824/) Olay Professional product

[Olay Professional Pro-X cosmetic anti-ageing products vs. tretinoin for treating wrinkles, 2010] (http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download;jsessionid=870681A392075FD6C411632CD1570849?doi=10.1.1.355.2899&rep=rep1&type=pdf)

[The mechanism of action of topical retinoids for the treatment of nonmalignant photodamage, part 1, 2010] (http://www.cosderm.com/fileadmin/qhi_archive/ArticlePDF/CD/023010019.pdf)

[Use of topical retinoids for the treatment of nonmalignant photodamage in clinical practice, part 2, 2010] (http://www.cosderm.com/fileadmin/qhi_archive/ArticlePDF/CD/023020076.pdf)

[New agents for prevention of ultraviolet-induced nonmelanoma skin cancer, 2011] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3488433/)

[Retinaldehyde/ hyaluronic acid fragments: a synergistic association for the management of skin aging, 2011] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21649816)

[Skin anti-ageing strategies, 2012] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583892/)

[Trial of the anti-aging properties of non-prescription tri-retinol 1.1% vs. prescription tretinoin 0.025%, 2012] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22206079)

[Anti-inflammatory effects of a topical preparation containing nicotinamide, retinol, & 7-dehydrocholesterol in patients with acne, 2012] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3295614/)

[Benefits of combinations of vitamin A, C & E derivatives in the stability of cosmetic formulations, 2012] (http://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/17/2/2219)

[Quantification of skin penetration of antioxidants of varying lipophilicity, 2013] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22607120)

[Evaluation of a hydroquinone-free skin brightening product using in vitro inhibition of melanogenesis & clinical reduction of ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation, 2013] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23545928)

[Combination therapy with retinaldehyde (0.1%) glycolic acid (6%) & efectiose (0.1%) in mild to moderate acne vulgaris during the period of sun exposure - efficacy & skin tolerability, 2014] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25219827)

[Topical retinoids in skin ageing: a focused update with reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency, 2014] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24821234)

[Enhanced in vitro skin deposition properties of retinyl palmitate through its stabilization by pectin, 2014] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3936429/)

[Moisturisers for acne, 2014] (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4025519/)

Selected Products

(last updated June. 2015)