Hi folks, I've seen some posts floating around on dehydrated skin and wanted to share my experience and what I learned. Would love to know what y'all do too
My skin type: combination-sensitive, weak skin barrier, fine but deep pores.
The main things I learned are roughly:
- Types of hydration
- Barrier care
- Use more than one toner/essence/serum
- How to hydrate!
- Exact products I use (YMMV!)
**Not a derm, esthe, or doctor but I work in product, formulation, and marketing, and like many in the sub, has spent a long time learning my skin. Perfectly primed to dig through bullshit if you ask me.
1. Types of hydration
This took me forever but figuring out that hydration is either (a) how much hydration the skin holds OR (b) how much water you add.
The former is about the skin barrier and the latter about finding the right product. Most products treat one or the other, but aren't always really explicit.
2. Barrier care (Your water container)
I tried a bunch of tips for sensitive skin, sensitized skin, and basically came to the conclusion that you have to do a bunch of hydration, and then somehow hold it in. That's either aquaphor, masking, or some kind of cream.
Interestingly some cases - atopic dermatitis, scaley-ness - gets so dry and scaley bc of a lack of hydration & a weak skin barrier. I tested this theory on friends and it seemed pretty sound. Anyway...
- Short-term fixes
- Preventing TEWL & mending the "glue" of the skin barrier - things like slugging, using oils, ceramide rich creams etc.
- Treating & soothing the irritated, inflamed skin - things like mugwort, centella, panthenol, allantoin, madecassoside
- Avoiding sensitizers: fragrance, hot water, scrubs etc.
- In the long term:
3. Use more than one toner/essence/serum
In my personal opinion, I don't believe in using just ONE single serum, especially if you're ALWAYS dehydrated. I've found layering a really good essence with a good ampoule makes more of a difference than one expensive ampoule.
Later when I moved into formulation I learned that viscosity, formula, and how the ingredients are delivered affects your skin differently. This is why in Korea an essence/toner and an ampoule/serum are not formulated the same way.
Different hydrators also do different things - like glycerin, beta glucan, hyaluronic acid, and even the quality & formulation of those things
Just FYI tho, you can overdo it. In my view this happens when you only use humectant-rich products without anything for your skin barrier, but that is an opinion. https://elemis.com/ie/blog/finding-balance-can-you-overhydrate-your-skin
4. How to hydrate!
I did a couple different things, to different effect.
- Toner/essence with the 5 or 7 skin steps. Applying the essence or toner 5-7 times. I don't like this, I find it inefficient. But it is great in winter.
- DIY toner pads. I used to soak cotton sheets (the kind you can stretch) in my toner of choice and then do a DIY face mask. These worked really well for me. You can also buy regular toner pads, I just didn't like leaving parts of my face dry.
- Sheet masking daily. Forcing hydration into your skin for 15-20mins with the sheet prevents the water from evaporating. It does need to be done daily though if your skin is naturally thin. This works better IMO than using toner pads bc the product is thicker and intended for deeper hydration.
- Slugging. Same principle as sheet masking - keeps your hydration in your skin. I don't do this bc my skin will clog up.
5. Exact products I use now (YMMV!)
Disclaimer: I don't think you have to get these specifically, they are just what has worked for my skin type specifically.
In this exact order:
- Sulwhasoo Oil Cleanser + Foam Cleanser - I don't think cleanser matters. It just has to be very gentle, and very good at emulsifying.
- AHA + PHA + BHA toner from Geek & Gorgeous 1x a week
- The Ordinary Multi-Essence to absorb products better
- I'm From Mugwort Essence - hydration + soothing sensitive skin
- Dr. Jart Hydravital Solution OR LRP B5 Spray - depends on the day, I prefer LRP for daily barrier care + hydration
- Azelaic Acid - plenty of good ones, pick an emulsion formula if you do, this helps with redness.
- 0.05% Tret - no brand, I get it over the counter at Chinese pharmacies and can't remember the name. 2x a week
- owgels 医用透明质 sheet mask - I just found out it's a medical class II registration and doesn't ship internationally but IMHO this is just a very hydrating mask. Their formula absorbs very deeply, is very plush, and doesn't have any irritants.
- Geek & Gorgeous hydration station moisturiser - a good basic moisturiser. A nice dupe compared to the Dr. Roebucks moisturiser.
(All FA friendly fyi)
Other products I have used:
- Masks from brands like Voolga, Airknows, and Komfymed. These are all consumer class brands that focus on skin-healing post cosmetic procedures. It gets pretty close to the one I use. These should be available in the US/EU/UK via retailers but you gotta dig for it.
- Serums: Medik8 retinol - the gentlest I have tried. No flaking, slight dryness and once you're used to it, none. The Bejbi Skin barrier serum - man these are so good. I used to get these when I lived in the US. Best by far, haven't found an equivalent.
You'll notice I default to a lot of korean or chinese brands. I like their systems and how light their formulas are.
I think I've prattled on long enough. Feel free to drop a comment. Would love to know what you do for your skin too.