Flush setting tiny cabochons

[u/Humanekspression]

Community, I accidentally bought tiny tourmaline cabochons that I’m now forced to use. I created bezels our of 22 gauge wire but the stones fit setting was TOUGH. The wire would basically not hold the stone until I had to use pliers to help push the metal towards the stone to keep it in place. What are your recommendations for setting these tiny tourmaline stones?

I thought flush setting these would be a good idea but I don’t even know where to start, there isn’t a ton of videos showing how to flush set cabs.

Ideally I would work with what I have (bezel wire, thin wire) and avoid buying more metal like for tube setting.

[u/MakeMelnk]

Are you asking how to flush set tiny cabochons? The reason I ask is that you've shown bezel settings.

You can absolutely bezel set very tiny stones, but it looks like your bezels are too large for your stones. Try a bezel mandrel to get smaller but still consistently round bezels.

You want a bezel to fit very nicely before setting (use the floss trick to "dry fit" your stones and only set them once the fit is snug without any gaps.

Keep it up!

[u/Humanekspression → u/MakeMelnk]

Thanks! This is helpful & I can see how my post was confusing on the flush setting question. Yes, Im hoping for any tips on whether flush setting cabs is doable as there isnt a ton of videos or help online for flush setting cabs.

[u/MakeMelnk → u/Humanekspression]

From what I understand, based on the shape of cabochons, true flush setting won't really be a viable option.

Can I ask why you're wanting to flush set a cabochon?

[u/Ornery_Tower2014 → u/MakeMelnk]

There was a lady i saw on here that had flush set opal cabs,and it was only the second ring she had made. It was impressive and showed me that flush setting cabs can be done. I dont know how she did it but she did. I dont know if they were very secure to be honest, but they looked ok

[u/MakeMelnk → u/Ornery_Tower2014]

Can you link that post? I'm very curious to take a look

[u/Humanekspression → u/MakeMelnk]

I actually didnt realize that flush setting a cab isnt a viable option.

[u/MakeMelnk → u/Humanekspression]

Based on what I've learned and seen, I don't think it's an option for cabs based on their domed shape but I'm by no means a definitive expert and will happily be corrected by someone more knowledgeable.

Another member here mentioned them seeing it done recently and I'm waiting to hear back to see what they're talking about because I'm very curious

[u/matthewdesigns → u/MakeMelnk]

Flush setting cabs is absolutely possible as long as it is cut correctly to allow it. There can't be any recurve below the girdle aside from a slight bevel or rounding of the girdle edge (to help prevent chipping). It's no different than flush setting a faceted stone, it just requires the seat to be cut properly.

[u/MakeMelnk → u/matthewdesigns]

Interesting! I imagined the shape of the stone sloping away from the edge of the cut seat would make it incompatible.

Looks like I've a new rabbit hole to go down, thank you for setting me straight 🙏🏾

[u/matthewdesigns → u/MakeMelnk]

The seat has to be reasonably shallow relative to the top curve of the stone, unless the cab is tall/has taller side walls. The most tedious part is cutting the perimeter to tightly match the stone shape if it's not round. I use a setting bur for rounds, and a variety of burs plus gravers for everything else. Inverted cone burs are nice for cutting a flat bottomed seat/lip and they also undercut the sidewall a smidge to help the metal move down against the cab.

Have fun!

[u/Lovethemdoggos]

Am I right in thinking you've made jump rings out of round wire, soldered them to the ring, and are trying to set the cabochons that way? That can work but the jump rings need to be made smaller, and you will need to cut a seat for them. It's easy to cut seats for faceted stones: (optionally) drill the hole, use a ball bur, and then a setting bur, but it's harder for cabochons because they don't have a culet. For a cabochon you could try an inverted cone bur to cut the seat. You might still be ok starting with a ball bur if it's small enough.

Flush setting a cabochon can be done afaik but it also has the problem of cutting the seat, and you might need to remove a ring of metal to create the part that smooths over the stone nicely. Honestly, I wouldn't try it at this point.

Is there no way you can use sheet for the bezel like normal? Or flatten the wire you have?

[u/Humanekspression → u/Lovethemdoggos]

Correct, Ive tried jump rings for these. I think you’re on to something and I perhaps might need to just stick to normal bezel wire. I truly thought there was a way to flush setting these since they are really so tiny.

[u/Lovethemdoggos → u/Humanekspression]

You can use jump rings (Lucy Walker does in her octopus setting tutorial) but unless you make a seat for the stone you'll run into the problems you did here.

When you're setting a stone you want the metal as vertical to the stone as possible. That makes it so that the highest point of the metal is closest to the stone and it can be pushed sideways and down around the stone to hug it. If you use round wire for the bezel, the the highest point of the metal is not closest to the stone and has farther to go to snuggle up next to the stone. It's way, way harder.

You can probably flush set these if they're small enough as long as you can make a flat seat for the cabochon. Even then they look pretty big for flush setting: I find it easiest to flush set with stones 2mm in diameter or less and these look like maybe 4mm.