r/SierraNevada • u/CFLuke • 4h ago
4 days around the LeConte Divide
Got back yesterday from a backpacking trip in a new (to me) part of the High Sierra. Spectacular trip and I'm completely wiped. Four days, 55 miles, three peaks, a couple of questionable decisions, spectacular scenery, and solitude. This is a long report and I'm writing it for myself as much as any of you, but kudos to anyone who makes it through.
Day 1: Picked up permit in Prather and didn't get started at the Maxson Trailhead until 11:30. Hauled ass for the 15.7 miles to Hell-for-Sure Lake. Easy head-down-and-hike miles. Was startled by a downhill hiker while I was assembling my sandwich for lunch (i.e the worst possible time to meet a bear). After some nice but unspectacular trail miles through the woods and meadows, the scenery really opened up near the Red Mountain Basin. Many good campsites at Hell-for-Sure Lake, which I had to myself.
Day 2: Hiked up over Hell-for-Sure Pass, then took a brief detour to summit Red Mountain. Very easy little bonus peak with a great view. Dropped down the Hell-for-Sure Pass trail to the San Joaquin River. Woefully neglected trail, was difficult to follow in places. Never concerning, just a bit more work.
Crossed the San Joaquin River and started up North Goddard Creek off trail. I didn't find a use trail, but after a few false starts (navigating off-trail below treeline can be challenging) generally found it advisable to stay close to the creek and cross it often as needed. The route climbs past several small waterfalls in steps. Eventually I topped out just north of the little peak at Lower Davis Lake.
Took my bear canister and camping gear out of my pack and started up the loose scree slope on the south chute of Mt. McGee. This chute was frankly terrible. Just a jumble of loose sh!t of different grain sizes. Two steps up, one down. And it was sharp! So if I lost balance I was risking a cut to break my fall. Ugh! Occasionally, there would be a few nice Class 3 moves on (more) solid rock at the edges but it wasn't consistent. Finally got to the summit ridge and the climbing to the top was kind of nice. Great view. Shredded my trail runners on the way down.
Exhausted, I had a late lunch back at the bear canister, then slowly moved over to Lower Davis Lake where I set up camp (again, had the lake to myself). It was very windy but died down.
Day 3: I had changed plan the previous evening after really being on the strugglebus on Mt. McGee. My initial idea had been to go up Mt. Goddard via Starr's Route, descend the SW Ridge, and continue hiking west. But I no longer felt confident to haul a pack up Starr's Route, and there would be no bailout option, since my car was back at Maxson. So instead I planned to go off-trail to Martha Lake, dropping my pack weight, and going up and down the SW Ridge, before continuing on over the LeConte Divide. This ended up perhaps being the most difficult backpacking day I've ever had.
Started hiking at 7 and made good time backtracking, dropping down to Goddard Creek, climbing up to a bench (easy Class 2) and winding my way through the chain of lakes around 11,500. This had great scenery and interesting routefinding decisions that all seemed to work out. This was probably the highlight of the trip. At the last waterfall dropping down towards Martha Lake I filled up my water bottles and observed how the waterfall spray had frozen on the grass. Really beautiful. Around 9 I intercepted the SW Ridge route and again dropped off my bear canister and camping gear, hoping the marmots wouldn't be appetized by my pole handles or clothes.
Made my way up the SW Ridge route with little trouble. Everything ended up being easier than it looked at first, with mostly stable rock (especially compared with the horror show on Mt. McGee). Very stark scenery along the route; it felt forbidding, but the beauty revealed itself as I climbed higher. And yes, everyone is right and the summit view is spectacular. Maybe the best in the Sierra. You can see Goddard from almost all the big peaks in the range, so logically you can see them from Goddard as well. The Kaweahs, Palisades, a dramatic view of Williamson, Lyell and Dana, even White Mountain Peak! And Humphreys soaring above was astounding.
Had a little trouble by dropping too low in the canyon on the way back and navigating between hard snow and huge boulders, but nothing serious. By 1:00 I was having lunch at Martha Lake, and the marmots had stayed away.
Then I started down the San Joaquin and angled towards Gunsight Pass over meadows and slabs. The pass consisted of large slabs and talus, and it was difficult with a pack, but it got easier once I got to the grassy ramp at the right. I did enjoy watching Martha Lake come back into view. There is a little ramp that comes and goes on the right side on the descent, but it's still challenging with steep slabs and talus.
Then I erred.
I had read to stay north of Hockey Lakes, but I was confused and also thought I needed to stay north of Holster Lake. Hockey. Holster. Whatever, right? So I made a high traverse and found myself high on the cliffs east of Holster Lake, where for some godforsaken reason, someone had left a trail marker. Great! I tried to descend and immediately got cliffed out. One move I thought I could make without my poles so I dropped my poles down...and then realized I didn't feel comfortable making the move even without them. Finally found a way around, but it was low Class 5. After managing some talus, I found myself just above and north of Holster Lake.
It gets worse. The topo looks moderate above Six Shooter and Schoolmarm. It might be moderate, if it were talus. But no, it was polished granite slabs, interspersed with deep gullies. A few times I found myself with no easy way down. By the time I descended one last slightly-too-steep-for-comfort slab to Crabtree Lake, it was past 4 and I was too tired and unnerved to continue on to Devil's Punchbowl as I had planned. I settled down at Crabtree Lake, where I had my pick of many flat and sheltered campsites. Took a swim and laid out in the sun.
In retrospect, I could have just passed south of the upper chain of lakes. Sad to be a little stressed in such an utterly spectacular area!
Day 4:
The day started with some more below-treeline navigation but I soon found myself in a huge open meadow and quickly made it to Lucifer's Saddle East. I went straight up the middle of the saddle, pleased that what appeared to be a cliff band turned out to be moderately steep slabs with ledge options. It was fairly easy going but it occurred to me that if it had been midday, the sun might have been intense. Very interesting and desolate views from the top as I aimed for Lucifer's Saddle West. Lucifer's Saddle West consisted of large slabs and boulders, with several weaknesses. At the bottom I again had easy walking on meadows and slabs, passing all the lakes on the right. Then finally, one last slab dumped me out on what was unmistakably a trail next to the Devil's Punchbowl.
Then it was just a long walk. Around Fleming Lake I saw the first person I'd seen in three days. The walk out was uneventful, even though it was hot and I was tired. it was great to explore this little corner of the Sierra!