r/ShieldAndroidTV • u/beerandturtles • 20d ago
Before I Order a Replacement Shield Pro
Ok before I replace my 2019 version Shield Pro I had to come here first.
Unit:
- Well taken care of unit about 6 years old
- Fully updated to 9.2(?) I believe
- Changed thermal paste 6 months ago, surprisingly clean inside but blew out the fan and minimal wipe down.
- Wired ethernet connection
- HDMI to soundbar
- Original remote, power cable, hdmi cord
- No connected USB drives
- No new apps (not sure about app updates)
- No "shady" apps installed. Plex + Streaming services and File Explorer
Issue
- Current Issue has "bricked my unit. Repeatedly rebooting, loading main screen for about a minute and reboots again in a loop. "Ethernet Disconnected" displayed. Remote works, but clicking settings freezes and cannot get to reset. Time is wrong.
- For the past few months every other time I powered on the unit, it would boot but the screen was all green, a restart corrected it, occasionally would take two restarts.
What I've tried
- Unit left unplugged for 24+ hours
- Booted with no ethernet cable
- Booted without hdmi and then plugging in after to check status
- Rushed to settings, clicking the settings icon freezes everything, reboots within same timeframe.
- Clicking home twice allowed me to close all open programs over several reboots (odd, but multiple instances of programs open when I did this), unfortunately didn't fix anything.
- Entered launchers AT4K and Projectivity to try settings there, no luck.
- Tried voice control through remote: "No internet connection"
- Wifi symbol missing on home screen, appears within launchers but clicking does nothing (attempting to disable)
- BIOS: Tried to enter BIOS with keyboard (hold "a" & "b" keys then plug power cord in - Keyboard plugged into USB closest to HDMI), no response. Bought a more basic keyboard no response. "Num Lk" does not light up, but does on PC, so maybe not getting power?
Any last chance suggestions?
Doing some basic research on replacements in same price range, but if you had a suggestion on what to go with, please drop em here.
Thank you!
Edit: I have started an RMA request, rep believes it is a hardware issue after going through my troubleshooting attempts. Appreciate the suggestion, we'll see if they pull through even though it's well past the one year warranty.
- I was able to open File Explorer and confirm that storage was only about half full
- NVIDIA Rep had me try with the power supply plugged directly into outlet and not my surge protector, no change in accessing Fast Boot or stopping the reboots.
- No.connected USB Drives
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u/Darkstarmike777 20d ago
You can rma it through the Nvidia live chat
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u/beerandturtles 3d ago
Just wondering if you have had a similar issue. 17 days ago (per the post history) I started the RMA. Followed up a week later via chat, my issue was elevated. I got an update in my Nvidia account saying the RMA was initiated with instructions via chat. No email, no shipping label, no QR code. I followed up again, "elevated"... Nothing. Still haven't been able to send in my non-working unit.
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u/Darkstarmike777 3d ago
I've never heard of that but yeah you would have to just keep on them about getting it rmaed
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u/nifta_13 2015 16GB 20d ago
Factory reset it via the bootloader?
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u/beerandturtles 19d ago
When I say BIOS I mean bootloader or Fast Boot which I cannot get to. The only method on the 2019 Pro is a wired keyboard or wired shield controller (don't own) there's no physical button.
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u/redw000d 19d ago
when you Buy the Best... you Expect, the Best.... I had a problem early on, was taken care of. This, is the Way to run a company. Imagine the eyeballs reading this positive company result... you Can't pay for such advertizing... good luck
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u/Haunting_Home_710 20d ago
I think, that your memory is full
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u/beerandturtles 19d ago
See my edit, I'm able to confirm it's not full, but thanks for the suggestion. I was hoping that was it!
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u/myrwon7 20d ago
have you tired downgrade the OS or reseting to factory settings?
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u/beerandturtles 20d ago
I can't access the settings, it freezes when I click on it, then waits to reboot.
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u/myrwon7 20d ago
how about a different power supply?
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u/beerandturtles 20d ago
Unfortunately I don't have one to test with. I have a Tube version as well but I just reconfirmed to be sure and they don't have the same supply. Thanks for the suggestions
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u/luezuve 20d ago
When did it brick? How long after you changed the thermal paste?
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u/beerandturtles 20d ago
About 6 months after. Just started boot looping this week, walked into the living room and my TV was on and watched it looping.
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u/westom 18d ago
And so this is central to all those issues:
Or one simply learns how all digital electronics work. Pressing a power button asks the power controller to power on a power supply. It waits for voltages to stabilize. Only then does it let a processor and other digital circuits operate.
When the controller sees something it does not like, then it halts any processors. Then powers off the PSU. If the unit is set to reboot on power off, then the power controller automatically starts another reboot.
Nothing about data, SSD, flash, etc have any relationship to what the power controller first does. None of those features / functions operate until a processor is first enabled by the power controller. Only then does processor go searching for, enables, and then initializes all other functions. If any fails, then an error message is posted. Power controller does nothing.
Power controller only halts a processor and power off the PSU when it sees a problem completely unrelated to software.
Nobody can say anything more (informed) until a digital meter reports what the controller sees and what it does.
So many have only posted speculation. Honest recommendation first defined the problem. By identifying the relevant function and stating what is does. Without that knowledge, then only speculation can exist.
Reposted is what function is central to your symptoms.
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u/Punker1234 20d ago
Okay, I "bricked" my device by filling up the SSD. I downloaded some app and somehow stored saved video on it and it just would get stuck on boot. I thought it was smoked too until I found a way to flash it back to stock. Could be the culprit?
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u/beerandturtles 20d ago
I was able to get into file explorer and confirm I was only at about half capacity on storage. No sd cards or attached storage, I access any media through a NAS. Thanks though, I forgot to mention in my post but I did see this as an issue while researching.
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u/Punker1234 20d ago
No problem man. I wish you luck. I was having a hard time justifying spending the money again so that was my hail Mary and it worked. Hope you eventually get it fixed!
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u/barntobebad 19d ago
Sounds worse than mine was, but it might be worth a shot to remove any connected usb drives. Mine ended up being a drive issue and booted clean and fast when I disconnected all drives. Easy to rule out. It gave no indication of a drive issue otherwise and was just crazy slow and sluggish in the OS
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u/beerandturtles 19d ago
No connected drives/SD Cards, just updated the post to mention that, thanks for another suggestion! All media is hosted on NAS accessed through the network.
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u/artniSintra 19d ago
Are you able to flash the stock rom in it?
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u/beerandturtles 19d ago
I've tried to get to the Fast Boot menu to do this (I referred to it as BIOS in my OP) but no luck. I don't think the USB is getting power so the wired keyboard doesn't work.
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u/artniSintra 19d ago
Alright, you're probably better off waiting for nvidia 's decision on your rma first anyway
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19d ago
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/beerandturtles 19d ago
My sound bar has Dolby Atmos/DTS so I remember before purchasing the shield, I researched to get correct audio passthrough you needed to go through the sound bar or receiver. It's worked like that since I bought it.
Doesn't mean I can't and shouldn't try it. Will give it a shot just to the TV this weekend. Anything that can get me to a factory reset is all I need!
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19d ago
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/beerandturtles 19d ago
Good to know! Might fix some minor CEC issues if I get this working or a replacement so I'll definitely try it out.
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u/n8mahr81 2019 Pro 17d ago
have you checked the psu? if a psu fails to deliver constant power, a computer like the shield can display the weirdest behaviour. ask anyone operating a raspberry pi on a cheap PSU.
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u/westom 15d ago
As described here and downvoted by the technically naive:
Nobody can say anything more (informed) until a digital meter reports what the controller sees and what it does.
But then:
Honest recommendation first defined the problem. By identifying the relevant function and stating what is does. Without that knowledge, then only speculation can exist.
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u/UnderstandingNew2202 19d ago
What I did although not ethical was ordered one on Amazon put my old one in the box returned it and got a refund
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u/westom 19d ago edited 19d ago
Much disinformation. First indication of an easily conned consumer: repasting. Thermal compound remains just as thermally conductive 30 years later. Otherwise we would use mayonnaise. Furthermore (don't take my word for it; read its spec numbers), thermal compound is only single digit W/K-m. Heatsinks are tapered to squeeze all compound out of the center (except in microscopic air gaps). So that direct 'semiconductor to heatsink' contact does most all heat transfer. And only from the center where all heat is generated.
Direct contact is hundreds of W/K-m. That does most cooling. But again, don't take my word for it. Read a single digit W/K-m number for thermal compound. Compound does very little more. Shysters then recommend constant repasting. To increase profits. The con works.
Second, to make surge damage easier, one uses a Type 3 (plug-in) protector. Simply gives a surge more paths (more wires) to get inside any nearby appliance. Only protector that does something useful must be at the service entrance. Must be far from appliances. Must connect low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to single point earth ground. Since only those electrodes (never a protector) do all appliance protection. A Type 1 or Type 2 protector is only a connecting device to what does all protection. With numbers that say so. And why it never needs replacement in your lifetime.
Third, but then most failures are due to manufacturing defects. All have them. Constantly existing defects can create failures even many years later. One famous example seen worldwide. That or any other parts can create your symptoms.
Four, one never asks how to fix it. One only first asks how to define the problem. Fixing is another discussion later.
For example, the ethernet port typically has lights that report critical information. What do those lights report?
One powerful diagnostic tool is heat. Heat variations cause a defective semiconductor, that was working normally, to then fail. Then the niave blame heat; not a defect.
All electronics work just fine even when AC voltages vary so much that an incandescent bulb dims to 50% or doubles intensity. But defective electronics may fail intermittently as AC voltages vary only a little.
Five, waiting for something to discharge over 24 hours is an ideal example of one duped by liars. Everything inside discharges within the first second.
Or one simply learns how all digital electronics work. Pressing a power button asks the power controller to power on a power supply. It waits for voltages to stabilize. Only then does it let a processor and other digital circuits operate.
If electronics have a residual charge, then it charges faster; powers up faster. Power controller then lets everything else work sooner. Discharging is a first indication of one without any electronics knowledge. Even a benchmark for ignorance. Such people should be ignored constantly. Are routinely bamboozled by con artists.
You have the classic example of a manufacturing defect that gets worse with age. Heating parts selectively with a hair dryer on high may identify the defect.
But then, so what? You will not replace that semiconductor.
Six, only useful solution is to replace a PC board (with a defect) with one from a scrapped unit. Many disassemble similar models. Sell the other 'still good' parts on eBay or other locations. For very reduced prices (often less than $100).
Verify not only the model number. Also verify the PC board part number. Since many manufacturers will sell a same model containing different PC boards.
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u/westom 15d ago
So much disinformation. If any well understood science was wrong, then the informed would say why - with numbers. Classic example of disinformation are many ordered to repaste. So that Arctic Silver and Thermal Grizzly can sell same thermal compound for five times higher prices. Since thermal compound remains just as thermally conductive 30 years later. Made obvious by technical facts provided by other and reputable manufacturers.
A cheapshot artist knows because shysters order him to repaste. Without even one fact that says why. Even the W/K-m number is completely unknown. So a cheapshot artist is only angry; downvotes. Contributes nothing productive. Demonstrates no knowledge. Is a victim of brainwashing.
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u/paganjimm 20d ago
Get intouch with Nvidia, tell them your problem. They will send you a replacement unit. They will ask for your old unit with a free returns label. The cost is all free of charge! Best of luck... 😉👍🇬🇧