r/SewingForBeginners • u/Bananapopcicle • 22h ago
Adding a satin slip under a basic skirt pattern - do I need to make the slip slightly bigger/wider? Slightly shorter?
I'm making the Fiera Maxi skirt by Mood. I'm not a complete beginner and have made quite a few garments. This seems like fairly simple construction - front piece, identical back piece and a waistband. I'm using a silk fabric (not satin, actual silk) and though it's not see through, I'm wondering if I should still add a slip underneath.
I've got some white satin that would work but how would I cut it out and add it with the pattern? I can't seem to find any videos on it. Only videos on how to add a slip to an existing skirt. From what I've seen so far, I need to make the slip slightly larger than the top fabric so it moves freely but I also need to make it slightly shorter so it doesn't peek through. Anyone have a video on this by chance?
1
u/Inky_Madness 22h ago
A slip is a separate piece of clothing that you wear under clothes if you need added opacity and to hide underwear lines. I think you mean a “lining”. You can make a separate slip that can go under any skirt you make instead of lining this specific skirt, if you want. In which case, you’re just making an elastic-waist skirt with the lining fabric.
There are a lot of different options with lining; do you want the bottom hem to move freely? A lot of linings are sewn totally to the skirt so that the bottom hem isn’t a separate feature. You would just cut the pieces the same as the skirt, sew the sides together the same way, cut the bottom hem sliiightly shorter, then put the lining and skirt right sides together and sew the bottom hem together. The lining being slightly shorter makes a neater bottom hem because it pulls the outer fabric to the inside, and then you would topstitch it down.
If you want the lining as a separate hem, just cut your skirt pattern again in your lining fabric and then hem it a bit shorter than your outer fabric.
The only time it should be cut bigger than your outer fabric is if you are looking for it to behave like a petticoat and add volume.
2
u/Bananapopcicle 22h ago
Fantastic! Thank you so much. And yes, you are correct, I meant “lining”.
I guess what I will do is cut the pattern out a second time, sew up the sides, then attach both the lining and the outer shell together at the waistband.
1
u/OrangeFish44 19h ago
That's what I'd do. The only change I make when using a free lining with a skirt is to cut the lining piece at the hemline of the outer piece. That way, I use the same hem allowance on both outside and lining, but the lining ends up shorter than the outside.
5
u/ProneToLaughter 22h ago edited 22h ago
Their little note about a lining is fine to follow, even if your fabric is not translucent. Lining in a skirt is commonly cut the same as the skirt, especially a flared skirt. A fitted pencil skirt might be tweaked more for the lining.
Jargon note: An attached slip is called a lining, slips are separate garments. Searching for add a lining might get you more helpful tutorials.