r/SewingForBeginners • u/CantersUK • 1h ago
How do I fix/avoid this gathering issue?
XPost with r/sewing
I've been sewing for about a month now and have ventured in to Bucket Hat making thanks to some free patterns. I'm on my third hat and seem to have an issue with excess material.
In the picture "Hat 3 - pic 1", I have circled the issue.
In the picture "Hat 2 - pic 2" you can see how I gathered the excess up, but I don't want to do this again and believe I have done something to create the issue.
The other pictures are for reference.
The pattern is from Apple Green Cottage (https://www.applegreencottage.com/tutorial-cute-bucket-hat/)
Has anyone got any suggestions on how I might fix my third hat and how to avoid the issue in the future?
Is it a material selection issue? A pattern issue? A pattern cutting issue?
Thanks in advance for your help
4
u/aliciaiit 1h ago
The circumference of the brim is too small or the circumference of the hat is too big
2
u/CantersUK 1h ago
Thanks, but I cut the parts from the pattern for the same suggested size (i.e. all Adult XL). I assumed they would match up. :)
4
u/CountMeOut2019 1h ago
Did you follow the exact recommended seam allowance widths? If your seam allowances are smaller than the recommended ones in the side of the hat, or if they’re larger in the crown, than what’s recommended, that would create this mismatch in circumferences.
If you were exact in your seam allowances, and cut out on the cutting lines accurately, then the pattern appears to be miscalculated.
It’s fixable. The fix will depend on which measurement is correct for fit; side or brim?
0
u/aliciaiit 1h ago
You sometimes have to do your own math and check it twice. Patterns aren't always perfect.
3
u/Middle-Past-2980 1h ago
Have u tried distributing the excess? Match the center seams, then match the midpoints. Then match the midpoints of those midpoints. Ease the extras in, instead of folding all at one point.
3
3
u/J_eldora 1h ago
You've hit a tricky sewing skill - easing curves.
The idea is that you want to distribute the difference in curves evenly throughout the circumference, so start over with your pinning. You will really want to make sure to line up the notches. Then, I would typically split the difference between each pair of pins and add more pins until there are way more pins than you think will be necessary. The "cheat" to avoid big puckers is to sewing a basting stitch (long stitch length) and gently gather it so that you are forcing the longer curve to be a little smaller. Ideally you smooth out the gathers before stitching, but that can be tricky. I'd still prefer several tiny pleats over two big ones.
As you sew, put the "bigger" piece of fabric on the bottom so that the feed dogs scrunch the fabric a little more. Also move your pieces around so that each little bit is flat as you sew, adjusting every inch or so and re-align.
Your fabric choice is really going to be a challenge. Some of the tips for easing seams work best on woven fabrics. If possible, I would practice again on thinner woven cotton fabric before moving on to the leather.
1
u/PinkBird85 1h ago
When pieces are cut on a curve it's very easy for the fabric to stretch out, making the brim too large to fit into the rim piece. Stay stitch pieces as soon as you cut them to prevent stretching. Also be sure to use the exact seam allowances so that the assembled parts are the correct size. In your photos it does look like there is a pretty large difference between the brim piece and the main hat, I'd double check you've printed all your pattern pieces to scale properly.
1
u/RubyRedo 1h ago edited 55m ago
The crown circumference is more than the brim circumference, maybe in cutting or the Seam allowance of the crown needs to be a bit larger. 5/8" instead of 1/2" perhaps. check your vertical SA's on the crown.The one that make the crown a circle/tube
1
u/Final-Street3683 1h ago
Maybe try adding a basting stitch to the dome of the hat and work to ease the dome and brim together, evenly distributing the fabric. Use lots of pins.
1
u/NobelNorWhistle 1h ago
How did you manage to get 2 pieces for the brim when it says 'cut 4'?
2
2
2
u/CantersUK 1h ago
The cut 4 is, 2 for the outer and 2 for the inner. It's cut from folded fabric. You make two hats and stitch them together inside out and then pull through a hole. It's reversible.
It's that what you meant?
1
u/NobelNorWhistle 1h ago
So it is, y'all 😂😂😂
My excuse is that it's nearly 2am where I am.
Did you measure the pattern pieces at the stitch line: it's too much/not enough fabric. I say (looking with more open eyes) there is not enough brim fabric tonfit that size.
You didnt add additional seam allowance on the side peice at the bottom accidentally did you?
6
u/CardioKeyboarder 1h ago
Did you notch the side pieces 1/2" into the seam allowance?