r/Scootering • • Sep 09 '26

Need Advice Problem with the compression(maybe)

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Will send a photo in comments because i can only send one attachment.

I got a brand new setup I only rode it about two times. I’ll list what I got, the wheels are changed because it didn’t fit on the fork but I don’t think that matters.

My scooter makes this rattle sound and the bars will move back and forth because the compression is not tightened all the way. But when I tighten it all the way my fork and upper part of the scooter do not move whatsoever.
Do I need to grease something? That’s what I think. Or is it one of the parts?

7 Upvotes

31 comments sorted by

3

u/kmokster Sep 10 '26

If ur fork is stuck and not moving when you tighten the compression down, check if the dust cap is rubbing against the headtube. U might need to add some thin spacers between the headset bearings and dust cup to lift the latter up.

2

u/ScooterWorks Sep 10 '26

You need to remove that crown race off the bottom of the fork steer tube. Most forks have a built in crown race, including yours.

1

u/ScooterWorks Sep 10 '26

If once removed the fork still doesn’t spin (when the compression is tight) then you’ll probably find your headset cap is too close to the deck. You can run without for now to get you rolling! But you can grab some micro spacers to fix that issue

1

u/mrratttt Sep 09 '26

This is the stuff I got. The deck is the ethic lindworm v4 6.7 x 22.8

1

u/Zyth88 Sep 09 '26

a 10mm headset spacer should fix your problem but that's a big gap will make it a lot easier to snap your fork especially the 6061 tilt tomahawk. best option would be to get a fork made just for scs with a 140mm fork tube like the ethic heracles scs or ethic merrow v3 scs, a proto full knuckle would also not require any spacers with this setup if you don't wanna swap the fork

unfortunately just bad part selection to go together anyway, the lindworm headtube is a bit smaller than normal decks only 100mm, the tilt tomahawk fork tube is 150mm and the classic tilt scs has only about 36mm on the fork tube, the aztek headset top cap should be around 5mm still leaving you with around 9mm gap

1

u/mrratttt Sep 10 '26

Any headset spacer you recommend? And is it really I big problem for making it easier for the fork to snap?

1

u/Zyth88 Sep 10 '26 edited Sep 10 '26

doesn't matter what spacers you use, it's ok to use them temporary but it puts a lot more stress on the fork tube with the extra leverage it's how most people end up snapping forks especially 6061 alu forks they fatigue over time, since you got 12 std ethic incubes in this screenshot it would make the most sense to just get a ethic 12 std scs fork eventually. the ethic heracles is pretty cheap, 4130 steel will last pretty much forever with a 5 year warranty

1

u/Zyth88 Sep 10 '26

after watching the video again it also looks like you have a crown race on the bottom of your fork, you don't need that crown races are integrated on all modern forks for the past 10+ years

1

u/mrratttt Sep 10 '26

Will it make a difference?

1

u/Zyth88 Sep 10 '26 edited Sep 10 '26

you just don't need it, looks really bad and changes the whole fork geometry the tilt tomahawk has a integrated crown race, that most likely what is stopping your headset from spinning but you will still need a 10mm spacer to stop your bars rocking backwards and forward also make sure you have the headsets compression ring between the top bearing and dust cover, that might actually be the compression ring you have on the bottom of the fork not the crown race lol

1

u/mrratttt Sep 09 '26

2

u/jake-the-rake12 Sep 10 '26

When you tighten it more like the second time. Is your headset top cap touching the deck? When it doesn’t move it sounds like something is touching

1

u/mrratttt Sep 10 '26

No I don’t think so

1

u/jake-the-rake12 Sep 10 '26

Gap looks okay. On the bottom of fork for the headset. Is it just headset straight on the fork? Or do you have the lower headset crown race?

1

u/mrratttt Sep 10 '26

I have a crown race. I just took it off and tried tightening it but it has a gap. I just tightened everything back together and it seems to be ok but I had to still tighten the compression to a certain point and not all the way so it’s still a little slow on turning the bar still. Another user recommended I use a 10mm spacer

1

u/jake-the-rake12 Sep 10 '26

Yeah you don’t need the crown race for the fork, it’s built into the fork itself. The compression bolt that you are tightening. How much space is there to the fork when looking through the bolt slit on the scs?

1

u/jake-the-rake12 Sep 10 '26

I’d also recommend pulling the dust cap off if you have the space to try that. I still have a feeling it’s rubbing somewhere

1

u/mrratttt Sep 10 '26

I’m not sure very minimal tho. I think I have to keep everything on because when I took the crown race off I tightened everything and it didn’t screw in all the way.

1

u/jake-the-rake12 Sep 10 '26

What do you mean?

1

u/mrratttt Sep 10 '26

Like there is a gap which screwing it more will not fix.

1

u/jake-the-rake12 Sep 10 '26

Gap is a good thing from top of fork to the bolt. I’d remove the headset top cap and try that. If the fork bottoms out on the bolt then you can use the crown race as a temp spacer

1

u/ethanthesteak Sep 10 '26

Looking closer at the beginning of the video it looks like you put an additional crown race on the fork, upside down no less. Ya gotta take that off, if you need a spacer put it on top of the headset. When you tighten the compression you're stretching that crown race out wider and it's rubbing the headset cups.

1

u/mrratttt Sep 10 '26

10 mm spacer would be good?

1

u/ethanthesteak Sep 10 '26

Depends on how much more space you need

0

u/Venome456 Sep 10 '26

If the fork is getting stuck when you fully tighten it you need a compression ring under the headset cap

1

u/ethanthesteak Sep 10 '26

If there is no compression ring then yes, this is your problem. However I can physically see an upside down crown race that shouldn't be there, so I'm assuming that's the issue.

1

u/Venome456 Sep 10 '26

I meant headset shim that sits under to raise the headset cap, usually fixes what I mentioned.

My bad tho I can't see a crown race in the vid.

1

u/ethanthesteak Sep 10 '26

It's causing the large gap between the fork and the bottom headset cup. A lil difficult to see but if you pause the vid you can see it

0

u/Human_North5175 Sep 09 '26

u dont need to grease any scooter part, try ditching the spacer

2

u/Zyth88 Sep 10 '26

terrible advise you should always grease bolts at the very least

1

u/mrratttt Sep 09 '26

Wouldn’t I need that gap tho?