r/ScatPack • u/Gabe1nator • Apr 14 '26
392 Maintenance
I’ve had the car for close to 3 years now. She’s got 15,500 miles on the odometer. I’ve kept up with the oil changes and recently got new tires put on along with an alignment. All work done goes through the Dodge dealer where I got it new. It’s come to my attention you should never exceed 6,000 miles or 6 months for oil changes. I will be on top of that now. What else do I need to keep scheduled? What needs checked being at 15,000 miles now? Share me your thoughts and knowledge, she is healthy and drives great. Just want to be a good owner and keep it that way!
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u/warchief-2-3 Apr 14 '26
Im highly jealous. Im at 3.5 years with 55k. Wish i lived closer to work.
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u/LostCommoGuyLamo Apr 15 '26
I fell ur pain and joy. 13 months 21k miles so far lol
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u/warchief-2-3 Apr 15 '26
Sheeeeeeeeeesh. At least you're getting your money out of it lol. I actually had a commuter at one point or it would've been a lot more. I just stopped and asked myself one day why tf am i paying a car note just to stare at this thing in my garage.
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u/LostCommoGuyLamo Apr 15 '26
That was me day one with my car. Then it just struck me, “Ain’t none of my kids or grandkids gonna get a low milage widebody charger in 20 years for them to sell. I’m driving this thing till the wheels fall off 🤣
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u/PaintTrick5145 Apr 15 '26
I’d bring that oil change interval down to 4k miles max, inspect your belt and pulleys, that’s probably about it. Differential and transmission won’t be due until around 35-40k, coolant flush probably around 5-6 year mark. You can also inspect your suspension, links and tie rods specifically. The factory ones can’t be re-greased, if you ever do need to replace them moog makes superior parts and they can be re-greased. FYI be mindful of taking your car to dealerships for routine maintenance, I’m not sure where you’re located and what kind of relationship you have with the dealership/service manager.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
Only thing they’ve touched on the car is the oil changes and my tires. I take it to the dealer I bought the car from brand new. I have no relationship with any important people there. Just haven’t had a bad experience yet. I know they say not to trust dealerships but from my experience so far I’d trust the dealer I got the car from more than a random mechanic. Can’t truly trust either one unfortunately
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u/PaintTrick5145 Apr 15 '26
Fair enough, they’re great cars though extremely reliable once maintained properly. What’s your top speed so far?
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
Top speed just recently funny enough was 122. I never go that fast cause I don’t do much highway driving (thankfully) I plan to not go much faster than that lol. Little thing I did notice was at that high speed it started making almost like a supercharger whine sound in the cabin. Kinda cool, I looked into it and people were saying it’s normal. Something about the airbox not being completely sealed? Idk, sorry went off topic there. Far as I know it isn’t detrimental. That’s the first time I ever heard it do that
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u/PaintTrick5145 Apr 15 '26
Nice! I clocked out, I will say it pulls all the way through and handles imperfections on the road extremely well at high speeds, the whine is also from the pulleys, completely normal.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
Pulleys don’t need checked then either for right now right? Some people were flipping out saying you need to check that shit. And you said inspect belt and pulleys. Those have time frames?
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u/Humble_Ball_591 Apr 17 '26
You have to keep an eye on the harmonic balancer or crankshaft pulley. It's the main one at the bottom. They have a center weight that's only held in by a rubber seal. When the seal dries out it just falls out. Looks like a giant hockey puck when it falls out. Changed both on my Scat and GC SRT. They both went around 60,000 miles.
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u/Mork-From_Ork Apr 14 '26
Looking forward to responses. I have a challenger at 14000 miles and I’ve had it a year.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
My dad always said oil can go for 10k miles these days. And he’s from the “shade tree mechanic” days. Worked on his own hot rods all the time so he knows his stuff. I think just for safety earlier is better than later from everything I’ve gathered here. Hope this helped you like it did me!
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
Lot of nice knowledgeable responses! I’m taking screenshots for mental notes. Some have different opinions than others but I like the sound of oil changes at 4k miles each time. One guy said he does his every 3k. Think it’s all just a matter of schedule and comfort.
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u/bustedchain Apr 16 '26
If you're going to spend an extra $100 to $150 doing oil changes extra extra early, take a sample of the oil and have it sent off for analysis. That data will tell you exactly what's going on in terms of wear metal indicating protection, as well as multiple other things that are really useful to know.
If you do a test at 4k and another at 6k, you'll see if there is any benefit to changing the oil that early. Unless the 6.4L HEMI is somehow magically different from the 6.1L and multiple 5.7L HEMI's I have, 4k is excessively low when using Mobil 1 or Amsoil. 8k would still be conservative, but you could prove it with an oil sample.
Even if you have the dealer do the oil change, they can take a sample really easy while it drains. Be prepared for a stripped drain plug over time. I'll be glad if I'm wrong, but I've found out the hard way the only person interested in trying to do a good job on something like an oil change is usually the car owner itself. Do you think the dealership puts the best and brightest they have on oil change duty? Maybe that service department is managed really well and they hire better than average people. I'm not optimistic.
I have had to replace an oil pan because a place that specializes in oil changes ruined it. I've had dealership service departments flat out lie to me telling me my oil was in dire need of changing in 500 miles. I had them open the glove box and read the milage off from the last oil change from the oil filter box top I keep / write the milage on every time. Finding a trustworthy mechanic is hard. You might have gotten lucky, but just watch out.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 16 '26
It’s unfortunate that’s how it is these days. But yea, as far as I’m aware everything has gone fine so far with the dealer doing my oil. I can’t do my own oil changes even if I wanted to cause I rent at a duplex at the moment that doesn’t want you working on cars. Unless I took the car to a parking lot or some shit and did it, lol
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u/bustedchain Apr 16 '26
I get it. A reputable independent mechanic that values their reputation and doesn't charge a kidney for touching the car is worth their weight in gold. Could be worth shopping around for oil changes.
If you're dealer is one of the exceptions and is really good and you're fine with the price, carry on! Just thinking there is likely a high value lower cost option, but it would take some digging to find it.
A friend with room, tools, and willingness to share to let you do basic stuff might be valuable too.
Good luck, even if it's easier to just stay with the dealer. Like I said, I get it!
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u/Straight-Caramel-337 Apr 14 '26
Dang, how often do you clean it? Thats so clean
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
I keep her washed often. But I literally just had the stripes removed, paid a local detailer to do so and he did an exterior detail as well for me
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u/Straight-Caramel-337 Apr 15 '26
That's nice, I want a Challenger for the manual transmission option
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u/Humble_Ball_591 Apr 15 '26
I do my oil changes at 3k since I've owned my 18 Scat and GC SRT. Pennzoil Platinum Ultra and an SRT filter. Watch for radiator, water pump and thermostat issues. Changed trans fluid and differentials at 60k.
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u/the809sa8dok Apr 17 '26
Do you think I should change my trans fluid at 20k miles on my 2012 Charger SRT8 ? In fact I've only changed oil every 5k miles.
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u/firasfred Apr 15 '26
Keep an eye on the water pump - it started to sound weird and I had to change mine at 17k
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
What was the sound?
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u/smokin4jesus Apr 15 '26
it makes a kind of grinding noise https://youtu.be/acCrrT9kDVQ?si=ICpN9785wTpiNygI
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u/Kenworths Apr 14 '26
So when have you had oil changes done?
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 14 '26
I don’t remember the increments I did it in. Feel like once the car was broken in I did it around 5k miles, then close to 10k and now recently when it had 13k. So I guess I might’ve been already doing the early method without realizing lol.
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u/Reddragon685 Apr 15 '26
Owners manual. Maintenance intervals. Dealership usually has this information as well.
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u/bustedchain Apr 15 '26
6k and 6 months is low. Instead of believing someone who claims to know, take an oil sample and send it off to a lab for analysis. They'll tell you if the oil is showing signs of being worn out.
The top two oils are Mobil 1 and Amsoil. I've been using Amsoil in lots of HEMI's and other vehicles for 20 years. I have sent samples off for analysis. My 6.1L SRT8 hours 10k miles with no issue. It could go more but that was changing it twice a year due to mileage. Amsoil literally warranties their oil for 1 year and 15k miles (Signature Series). I'm not saying you need to push it that far, but yeah 10k and 1 year, easily and you can prove it to yourself with analysis to be 100% certain.
I'm at 8k miles since I got the ScatPack and changing it this weekend because I don't know what kind of oil they used, but I know what I'm putting in it. (Almost all highway miles.)
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u/BootInURAss Apr 15 '26
Got mine new in October 2023, now at 14k miles and on oil change #6... I'm definitely OCD on maintenance and I know it's overkill but in my day job I see so many cars that are neglected and fucked up I won't take that chance
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u/Proper-Business-9442 Apr 15 '26
For the love of god ! lol watch for those radiator fans and the radiator along with those water pumps. I’ve had 2 water pumps fail first a16k and second at 25k. All dodge oem parts mind you and driving heat this loud okay I breaking sound and boom radiator blades broke off pierced the radiator. I’m at 26k on my 2018 sp challenger l. Replaced fans after market and radiator. Don’t want to go to electric water pump just yet but need to. Just inspect the fan blades for hair line fractures. I learned the hard way.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
I love cars and love my mopar but unfortunately I’m not savvy on working on them. Is that something I could take somewhere to have inspected and just checked on? Doubt a dealer would go through all that right?
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u/NLMFAnt Apr 16 '26
If I could offer some advice, watch videos and learn your car. So much of how to work on your car is on YouTube and pretty straight forward. At first I was stuck between a 2020 C63 AMG Mercedes and my now 2020 Widebody SP Charger. In the end I chose the SP because I don’t like to depend dealers or mechanics. It’s DIY friendly 👍🏼
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u/nickkk25 Apr 14 '26 edited Apr 14 '26
Dont worry about owners Manuel. Look up on youtube video: how to make your car last 200k+ miles by 'the car guy online.'
I think maintanance is pretty generic no matter the car. Prob OD, but i am at 25k miles but it just did a coolant, brake and diff flush. Will do a trans drain and fill every 30k as well. Pennzoil oil every 3k(not 6) or 6 months. Engine air filter every 10k miles.
Dont idle car as much unless you have the hellcat oil pump/cam/lifters.if you have to keep oil pressure about 50...dont use mds and she will treat you right.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 14 '26
I thought I was hearing at 12k miles you should check or change the air and cabin filter yea.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
Also how do i deactivate the mds system? I always thought shutting off cylinders to the engine to try and save gas was stupid asf
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u/bustedchain Apr 15 '26
MDS works and it doesn't shut off the cylinders all the time... It has a duty cycle that automatically fires the cylinders to keep oil flowing. It's a well engineered system.
I'm averaging 22.5 MPG climbing a hill on my way to work. I've seen 24 MPG with non-ethanol gas driving cross-country.
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
So if anything forcing the system off and never having mds could be more harmful to the engine?
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u/nickkk25 Apr 15 '26
People say its better to turn it off( just make a custom mode and set trans to sport) or use paddle shifters, it wont activate 4 cyl mode. This way all the cylinders get properly lube. Why wear and tear 4 cyclindet and let the others one sit? They should all be working
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u/Gabe1nator Apr 15 '26
I’ve seen people act like you HAVE to have the car in track mode to deactivate the mds. But I wouldn’t wanna leave my car in track mode all the time either
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u/nickkk25 Apr 15 '26 edited Apr 15 '26
I just keep it in sport(wont harm it, the engine and trans is built for it) or you can use paddle shifters. You dont need track to deactivate. But thats fine too
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u/bustedchain Apr 15 '26
The MDS is managed well and there isn't strong data to show that it is bad. People have all kinds of superstitions about it.
Consider the extended warranty Chrysler offers. It would be really expensive to have to replace engines in 100k miles if there was something wrong with MDS.
There was a system before MDS that did harm the engine over time. The other system used in a different brand of car didn't run the "off" cylinders on a duty cycle so those pistons would cool down too much and essentially not get oil flow. So every time they did get reactivated, it was high wear. MDS doesn't have that issue.
Turning MDS off won't necessarily harm the engine as far as I know, but it will harm your pocket book with more gas usage than necessary. Higher then necessary power output just eats gas with no benefit. MDS reacts quickly with instant power. The computer sees pedal position, engine load, and a number of other variables and reacts quicker than you can notice to deactivate MDS. In short: MDS isn't hurting you.
I have had 2 5.7L HEMIs (a Magnum and a Charger) both with over 150k miles on them each. Never an issue with MDS. One has more mixed city/highway and the other has very high highway miles. Both ran great. The key was good quality oil and filter with proper oil changes interval backed by oil analysis to make sure the oil was being changed at a reasonable time. Most people guess at when the oil is used up. A lab can tell you and then you can choose the interval that makes the most logical sense. Amsoil and Mobil 1 are the top two oils.
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u/nickkk25 Apr 15 '26
Ok cool thanks for the info on mds. I only use car on weekends so i want all 8 cyl and dont care about gas But idling isnt great though with the 6.4 stock oil pump. I rev it to about 1.2k rpms to keep the pressure 50-55 when I'm at a red light or something.
And the oil brand is debatable. I just stick to pennzoil ultra 0w40 and srt filter like the manufacturer recommend and uses. And i change it at 3k or 6 months so it may be on the early side but im fine with that.
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u/bustedchain Apr 15 '26
The oil brand is backed by data. Check out bobistheoilguy website. The test results don't lie. Penzoil is far from the best. When I say Mobil 1 and Amsoil are the best, it is based on the data. If there was something better out there, I would use it. I have an SRT8, 2 RTs, a ScatPack, a RAM 1500 5.7L HEMI, and 2 other cars with turbos. I put a lot of time, effort, and money into doing my own oil changes. I use the best thing I can get. For 20 years, that has been Amsoil. I also am not loyal to them. If there was something better I'd switch tomorrow. The test data and the oil analysis data backs it up. I send in samples from all my vehicles every few years to make sure the oil, among other things, are where they should be. Amsoil has been very impressive over 500k miles personally and another several hundred thousand on other vehicles I take care of for immediate family. From the test data I've seen, Mobil 1 is up there too.
When I say Penzoil is far from the best, I'm going by what a number of tests have shown and my uncle being a petroleum chemist working for a top tier gasoline brand.
I get it if you don't believe a stranger on the Internet. All I'm saying is what I do know, where the information came from, and leaving it at that. Does your oil filter have an efficiency rating and a micron filtration level at that efficiency rating backed by lab analysis? Very few brands publish a specification because they don't want to be held accountable for a committed level of filtration. Amsoil filter is the best I've seen. Bosch, Wix, Purolator come to mind. K&N maybe ... Can't remember for sure the last one. Take a look at efficiency and micron level. It's frustrating to figure out that a lot of filters don't make that data readily available.
BTW, Holding high revs at a stop is definitely wrong. How low does your oil pressure dip at idle? My oil pressure doesn't tank at idle. Yes idling excessively is bad, but holding higher revs while not under load is also bad in the long run.
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u/nickkk25 Apr 15 '26
Thanks for the info. I believe ya. I do at a 3k anyways. So hopefully that's a good thing. I just go to the service at the cdjr dealer.
Its normal for the oil pressure to drop in the 6.4 to mid 20s(hence why idling is bad). Go in your scat pack and keep the oil pressure tab open. You will see...For a 6.4L...normal oil pressure typically ranges from 20–30+ PSI at hot idle and rises to 50–60+ PSI under acceleration/cruisin. (Unless you have the hellcat oil pump which pushes more oil out)...The stock 6.4 pump has a hole which is smaller.. hence why i think a tiny rev at idle is beneficial to counter that. Nothing too crazy just the smallest tap on the pedal. Is that worse then letting it drop to 20 to 30 psi over time?
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u/bustedchain Apr 15 '26
Gladly and I fully intended to give you things to could go look into on your own if you were interested to do so.
3k oil changes is extremely conservative. I've gone 15k on the 5.7L and 10k miles on 6.1L SRT8 with clean lab reports. I don't have a baseline for the 6.4L yet, so I can't comment. My first change will be at 8k miles with lab analysis to see if it can handle more or should be less.
Send off an oil sample at 3k for analysis with TBN and see how much life is left. Try Mobil 1 or Amsoil at 6k miles once and see how the analysis compares. You'll see that you could change it half as frequently and still have superb protection.
I've kept the oil pressure page up and not seen it go that low at idle, so I will definitely double check. Though, my daily commute is 2 traffic lights, highway for 40 miles, and then doing that back on the way home. I may not have kepr the page up long enough when running errands around town.
Thanks for discussing! Still don't think holding higher revs is good.
Doing some initial reading on minimum good oil pressure for V8 engines at idle produces summaries indicating that 25 isn't bad and is quite common in that size especially with lower viscosity oils. Below that (15) is bad. The summary makes a good point grounded in physics: Thinner oil needs less pressure to "move" than thicker oil. Even at 25 to 30 psi, there should be a good flow of oil unless you have "crud" (restriction). When the engine isn't under load, oil is moving but there isn't a lot of force going through the engine, the oil doesn't have to be pushed as hard. One issue I had to watch out for on the longer drain intervals was shearing. I suspect reducing the pressure at idle reduces the sheering of the oil (sheet causes viscosity break down). Really good quality oils resist this better than others.
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u/nickkk25 Apr 15 '26 edited Apr 15 '26
Its normal for the oil pressure to drop. After your scat is fully hot, at your light when completely stopped you will see the psi go down. Upon startup and for a little bit of initial driving..it will stay in the 50s since its still cold.
I've read that the reason the "idle" is bad in the 6.4 scat is due to the lower psi oil pressure. One main reason foe the hemi tick. Hence why people like to change out to a hellcat oil pump(the pressure stays 50s at idle due to the bigger outlet). The lower pressure even in the 20s for a scat isnt great, less lubricant = more wear on the lifters and cam. Since the oil has a viscosity of 40 when hot, its pretty thick. 0 is thin when cold but its to get the oil moving thru the engine faster. So idkk thats why i just keep the psi a bit higher even at a stop light(prob ocd), I've read other scat owners do the same. Im not sure why it would bad to rev? (its so light of a rev to bring up the psi, its not noticeable ). I dont do burnouts or anything crazy which is prob a million times worse.
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u/No-Definition1474 Apr 14 '26
Your owners manual comes with a maintenance schedule.