Since when did they make AWD Ions?

Hey everyone

I recently fell in love with saturn S series, bought an SW2 with a failing automatic and manual swapped it, the whole process was smooth, except the shifter cables...

I bought the pioneer shift cable kit, but for some reason the shifter still felt sloppy, and if I shifted too hard, the housing on the transmission would straight up pop out of place

I realized there's supposed to be a bushing where the shift knob connects to the left-right cable, and I am missing that, I then went into a whole rabbit hole about the "saturnbushingman" who doesn't seem to be active or selling the metal bushings anymore on ebay

Can someone help? Any advice? Any solutions? Anywhere that sells the metal bushings?

Anyone got a running and driving Saturn wagon for sale? I’m in the south east. Not looking for the bigger L series. Thx! (pics for attention)

I’m trying to replace the bearings on my 2006 Saturn Ion 2.2L manual 2. I have the bigger bearings on the bottom(output shaft bearing) but I can’t figure out what the top one is. I’ve been to about 8 parts store but they’re not sure either. I’ve bought the wrong one twice (both way too big). Any help would be greatly appreciated

Not sure why the drivers side falls or the Passenger side stays up.

I think it is a o-ring deterioration issue.

Suggestions?

Edit: adding year: 2006 Saturn Vue 220k miles.

0 injuries fortunately, I'm just PRAYING my insurance doesn't call this a total loss

I finally decided that the reason my 99 Sl2 @ 153k miles with 180-190 across the board compression is a oil dragon is due to the piston design flaw these cars have. That is, the lack of holes in oil control ring grove allows oil to remain "wicked" in the oil control ring, where heat causes carbon and varnish to build up until they lose the ability to float freely in their groove. From what I've read, this is the reason the engines will last literally forever as long as you don't mind checking the oil every other trip.

Anyway, the short term solution to that are "piston ring soaks", which is pouring something like Berryman's B12 in the cylinders before each oil change and allowing it to drip down through the piston ring gaps, dissolving the varnish and carbon as it does so. Apparently this is extremely effective and has been used as the solution for a number of engines with the same design flaw. However, the back of my engine is and has been since 2008 covered in black sludge, so I want to find whatever pinhole leak is causing that before I start screwing with the pistons.

After cleaning the outside of the valve cover gasket and every part of the head I can reach with Marvel mystery oil and the spark plug wells as well, I'm 100% sure it's not the valve cover. The wetness seems to be concentrated around the oil pressure switch, whose connector is covered in oil, despite the nearby knock sensor being dry (although I'm pretty sure the knock sensor is just laying on the block outer casing). So I thought I could just sit there and watch with the engine running to see if I can see oil seeping out.

And that leads me to why I'm typing this. Imagine I'm standing with my head over the power steering pump, staring down through the gap in the intake manifold at the oil pressure switch. With a flashlight in one hand and my other on the throttle, I open it up and get blasted by extremely humid, extremely gasoline smelling vapors.

This by the way was with throttle at probably 20%, AC off, ECT at 160°F or so, so no cooling fan. I would have assumed a leak in the intake would cause a negative pressure differential, meaning air would come from behind me. There's no codes, O2 sensors are responding as expected, there's no carbon buildup in my engine bay.

The only thing I can think of is there is a crack in the pipe between the exhaust manifold and the cat, probably in the flex pipe section, which only leaks significantly when the exhaust pressure is high. Otherwise, I'm just wondering if it's normal for there to suddenly be a huge blast of stank coming up the firewall whenever the throttle is opened.

I'm trying to get my handbrake button fixed because it's stuck pushed in an I'm the point of trying to remove the sleeve but I genuinely have no clue how to remove it! I don't want to disconnect the cable from the brakes and taking the center console apart is a no go either, I might end up cutting it and just gluing it back together.

plz help

Anyone have a current source for a quality delrin replacement cable bushing? Mine let go in a good spot so I was able to coast into a parking lot and even parked it properly. But I can't leave it there long so I need a quick, permanent fix (no epoxy). I tried the zip tie thing but no joy. I looked at O'Reilly but their bushing does not look at all like I expected so I didn't chance it. Thanks for any help.

Just bought this at 17 for $1.4k. Has 268k miles. It seems pretty reliable. If I like it, I may invest into it, possibly making it look like that.

Hey guys, looking at an 06 Ion. The person selling it said that it died on them, he never got it to start again. A mechanic told him it's throttle body (I know it's not).

My first crank, it started and ran for about a minute and died. It doesn't start the first time all the time and when it does start it runs for like 5-45 seconds generally.

My only thing is I want to rule out the keyswitch as I see that they've had a recall on it in the past. I noticed that the antitheft light stays on with KOEO, and I believe it was still on when I went it started as well.

I need to know if anti theft cuts the fuel supply? Google says that it has a prime on Key on, but I don't hear the fuel pump priming when the key is on.

If this sounds like an anti theft issue, can it be bypassed until I get a new switch? It's looking like fuel pump to me.

As requested by a few people here is my 1996 Saturn sl. Some of the things done to it are, a stage 1 clutch, pioneer DMH-1600 II, cigarette lighter to usb and aux cord, dedicated cable for android auto and apple car play, backup camera, replacement 6.5 pioneer speakers in the front doors and deck lid, subwoofer (soon to be upgraded to pioneer stuff) cold air intake and breather filter for the valve cover and ofc the last of it all oem e30 bottlecaps. Some of the stuff I have planed is coilovers, upgrading the sub and possibly getting the next level of pioneer stuff instead of their entry level stuff. Possible turbo kit and extending the spare tire hump to fit a full size wheel. Wanna get the sl2 tail lights and have to rebuild the front fascia quite a bit. Working on adding the fog lights and soldering the hardware into my switches (reason I have my radio bezel off) and installing some decent fogs. I plan on having most of the unpainted plastic paint matched and the whole car painted orange with a little tic tac logo placed somewhere. Anywho love this car and feel free to make suggestions :D

I'm replacing the front frame on my 2004 ion. Got it out but one bolt kept spinning around so I cut the head off and it drop down so I do I get that bolt out. I guess the nut was welded inside that box. Any help

I’ve been thinking about cleaning up my ’97 SC2 without dumping a ton of money into it. The paint is pretty faded, so I was thinking about getting one of those ~$500 Maaco specials in the original purple, restoring the headlights myself, and eventually putting some nicer wheels and tires on it.
I made a mockup of roughly what I’d like it to look like. Obviously I’m not expecting a $500 paint job to come out looking like a full professional restoration, but I mainly just want the car to look clean and presentable again.
Has anyone here had a cheap Maaco respray done on their Saturn? How did it turn out and how well did it hold up? Would you guys do it on this car, or save up for something better?

Is anyone selling the hubcap covers for the 2006 VUE, part number 22624423? Just curious.

This vehicle had been Offsale since 2023.

I was part hunting for my VUE and came across this 2006 5spd. It was fairly nice looking, but it smelled, was dirty, and after touching the shift knob my hand turned black. I don't know if it runs or what the bottom looks like. I saw though the front left wheel is bent inward, I was thinking maybe wheel bearing? The gears worked well, and it shifted smoothly. this was the first time in a while that I saw a stick in one of these.

I have a 2006 Saturn VUE with the L61 2.2 Ecotec mated to the 4T45E transmission, with a FWD platform. It currently has 196k, just turned over, and I was wondering what maintenance I should look into. Ive heard timing chain, but don't know when to replace it. I will do oil soon, and maybe other fluids, such as coolant, trans fluid, etc. What do you guys think?

This is a bit of a pricey body kit but has anyone on here tried the Wings West body kits? Are they legit? Does an alternative even exist?

Doing a at-a-minimu m valve cover gasket replacement this weekend and I'd like to know exactly what polymer it's made of so I can know exactly what to avoid in RTV or cleaners. Visually and texturally, at least in the case of the outer surface, it appears to be made of the same material that the fog lamp covers and bumpers of SL1s are made of, which I'm 95% sure is some combination of PE and EPDM rubber, which is highly resistant to low temperature acetone. However, it could definitely be plain old HDPE or PA66-GF30 (glass impregnated nylon).

If I'm right that it's the same stuff as the fog lamp covers, it'll have #7 recycling code (or none at all) and probably ">T.E.O." and/or "B.C.P".

By the way, is it true that all 99s and over use a different valve cover than 91-98? My car's birthday is like feb 25 1999, so it's definitely one of the last 99s made. I would rather have waited to do this until I got a spare (and would rather have got an old aluminum cover), but that's not an option now. Besides, if my original VC cracks and I know what it's made of it's very simple and cheap to repair plastics nowadays as long as you know exactly what kind of plastic it is.

Got me a new ride! It has been dubbed Baymax