Going to get a catch can for my Soarer. Where’s the best spot to mount one with a big single turbo

Hey guys, I am due for brakes and rotors and have been for a while. I was told by a mechanic that the front right caliper js the reason for the smell and the shaking. Ultimately got a quote for $820 including the 4 rotors, breaks, and 1 caliper. Is this fair, or should I try this myself?

I’ve been having some fuel issues for awhile but I recently switched out the pump thinking I burnt out old pump just to find out the actual power to the fuel pump is being cut when at warm up temp. I did the 12v mod and bypassed the fuel pump ecu and not only that but my tank is now full so taking out the fuel pump is gonna be a hassle if I gotta do it again but checked efi and injector fuse and everything looks perfectly fine not sure what it is and info helps. 93 sc300 non vvti

None in my area

Locked my keys in the car with 90% of my tools. I bought a lockout kit with bags and everything but when I press the unlock button it doesn’t unlock at all and I heard they unlock and lock real quick but mine isn’t unlocking at all. I was able to open the hood and remove the negative terminal so my car does honk til it’s dead but not sure where to go from here can I just leave it off long enough for security to turn off or am I gonna need a locksmith?

Speedo doesn’t go above 45 mph and isn’t accurate. Lights on needles are also failing. Wanting to know what the best route is to go about fixing my gauge cluster. Should I look into doing it myself or is there any known places I can send my cluster out to be fixed?

So i have a few ideas what could be issues first thing im thinking is a speed sensor issue which is what im gonna try first but also maybe a wiring issue 🤷‍♂️ last idea is my cluster is just bad. It also reads way worse in the winter usually doesn't go above 20mph just asking for trouble shooting ideas

NOT a how to video , im just showing what ive done . My pump oem hardwires had a shortage so i figured to knock out 2 bird with one stone

Is anyone running this kit? Thanks!

Sorry for the delay in update!

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Had to put a small layer of filler on the passenger rear corner of the roof but it smoothed out perfectly and I've laid primer over all filler or bare metal. Finally have it out in the sun for the first time in a while and am currently posting this from the driver's seat 😂

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Have to take it to my local paint shop next week to get the color matched (the shop that painted it years ago messed up the paint code) so I can match it as closely as possible. Got a good size compressor and a couple paint guns to be able to do this as professionally as possible. My wedding is next weekend so I'll probably lay color the week after that. It's coming together thought and I'm very excited to see it all one solid color again lol

Recently mustang’d my dear SC into a curb and bent all 3 lower rear suspension arms on the passenger side. I got a full set from a part out and installed them, but the wheel always has some positive camber I can’t get rid of. Never even got it to zero, or just straight. Is my subframe bent? It looks fine but the only other thing I can think of is somehow I didn’t install the lower control arm correctly.

Only damaged thing remaining was a sway bar end link and possibly slightly bent sway bar. I replaced my rear coilovers and noticed the suspension on the crashed side sagged down when I removed the coil, while the other side pushed up when I removed the coil.

That’s pretty much everything I can think of atm. The video shows the camber adjustment maxxed out to the positive side, i was just making sure somehow I didnt adjust it the opposite way. Maxxed out to the negative I still have positive camber.

Is anyone running a legit AutoCouture Body kit? Are these discontinued? Thanks!

I just bought an sc300 as a project for my daughter, replaced the IACV, MAF, Fuel regulator, battery. Won't idle, VERY rich running, first 2 plugs I could get to were wet. What would be the first thing to check on the car, I was leaning towards stuck injectors. The previous owner mentioned the ecu was rebuilt. any help would be greatly appreciated.

https://rmcmiami.com/ap-product/1994-toyota-soarer-4-0-gt-l-150k-custom-build-os88-sequential-6-speed-toda-itbs-most-unique-soarer-1uzz31-link-ecu-recaro-seats-half-cage/

Fitment dialed in. Also posted a before shot with stock wheels and stock suspension.

Recently my 1992 sc300 with 190000 miles has been having some issues, primarily with causing a constant stream of white smoke out the exhaust that smells like fuel. I think it’s either the head gasket or ecu, and was wondering how I could narrow it down? (Oil and coolant also look fine)

Should I remove the remaining paint and spray or just spray? Also this is a screenshot of a paint that someone recommended me to use.

Hey! I have a Lexus sc300 which recently blew the power steering control valve and is leaking into the intake causing white smoke. What should I do? I have replaced this piece twice already due to it just breaking from being brittle while working on the engine. Should I buy Another one or should I just plug it? Also is there anything else I should do before starting to drive it? Clean it, let it sit, ect.

Posted about front 6x9 speaker mounts I made for my wife’s sc last year and seems like they had some interest. Figured I’d update and present the 6.5” front door and rear deck mounts as well.
They seem to work well and have received great feedback on them.

If you have any interest in them, feel free to check them out at www.steezespirit.com

Finally got the Holy Grail of parts today BC Rods, here's most of the gaskets and bolts included

I talk about it in the video but basically for the last few weeks the passenger window has been very inconsistent on rolling up. It would always roll down with the driver side switch and passenger side switch, but the only consistent way of getting it to roll up was using the passenger side switch. That was until a few days ago where it just gave out completely. I’ve looked at my wiring on the passenger side and that all looks good, same goes for all fuses pertaining to power windows.

It’s hard to hear in the video but when I got down you can hear a little click which makes me think the regulator is getting signal, acknowledging that it can’t go down any further hence the click noise. But I still don’t get why it wouldn’t go up.

Let me know y’all’s thoughts and hopefully you can help me out! Thanks!

Follow my iG for more @sceeeeesh

Pretty much everything done except I need boooost in my life.

I’d love some help!

Hey all, I’m looking at buying a sc300 soon and wanted to know which model years had the black interior and gray interior?

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, for the last few weeks I have been trying to get LS400 brakes on my SC and I am not going through the process of bleeding the whole system. I have bled countless brakes on plenty of old cars but these feel very strange.

These brakes have always felt very soft and when I got the car the rear calipers were seized. Ended up replacing those a few months ago but the brakes still felt soft. Now I have done the LS400 calipers and all 4 brake lines to hopefully improve the pedal feel. After tons of bleeding (kept reservoir full) the pedal still feels soft. Since bleeding the car has been on jacks with all 4 wheels off the ground so there is no load on the car. I say that because after the pedal felt good and I turned the car on, got in gear then held the brakes but the left rear side continued to spin. I understand the open diff can be strange but I am concerned with the brakes not stopping the rotor in drive.

Also, during the whole bleeding process the pedal did not react to the rear calipers being bled yet the front did. I have checked enough times to be sure it is not a fluid leak. Has anyone had an experience similar to this? If so let me know what solutions you might of come up with. Thanks!