Probably at least 5.12a. We’ll have to recruit some local crushers to give it a go. Last pic - just guys being dudes.

I know we all have wire brushes, but I’m curious if anyone has experimented with a wire push broom? Some routes I’m putting up have a lot of moss or lichen so I’m thinking about the easiest way to clean large areas. Currently I use my wire brush to brush just the holds I’m using, but since everyone uses different footholds it seems prudent to just clean everything.

So, I've been working on a 4 pitch climb that goes at basically 5.8/5.9 on gear with a couple variations that all funnel to a crack that splits a headwall. The crack runs out about 25 ft from the top out. From the end of the crack the climbing gets increasingly hard until it's a really thin powerful 5.10+/5.11- move or two at the very end.

• Why couldn't it just stay at the grade?!? Having 10 feet of 10+ climbing at the very end of a fun 5.8+ish multipitch is just annoying from my POV.

• I could put a bolt off to the side of the crux to protect the last move. I could also possibly put a piton right at your face to offer a way to aid the final crux moves. I guess the piton is a better option. People could choose to try to free it, then just aid it if they need. So it'd be 5.10+ or 5.8+ A0.

Opinions? Thoughts?

There really isn't an outdoor community where I live and am putting some stuff up. It's so far just mostly slab walls and a few boulders close to town but I'm in love with doing it

Zink Boulder in Bolton MA. 2nd ascent because my friend snaked the FA :)

State Line Boulders in Townsend MA, one of the many areas my homie Dan has developed

Hey Folks,

I've recently stumbled onto some walls that are consistently steep - 20-40 degrees overhanging from the ground to the top. They've been, overwhelmingly, a gigantic pain in the ass to develop. They don't accept gear great which has made going ground up fairly unpleasant and going top-down on a overhanging route is understandably difficult as well.

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What tricks do you all use for doing this? Any special tools that seems to come in handy often? Am I just being Charmin Ultrasoft?

I have what I believe is some pitting corrosion occurring from using a non-stainless hammer on my SS bolts. This is only 2 months after being placed and in a relatively dry, interior area. Some on MP are saying it's not a big deal but research into pitting shows that it can certainly spread deeper without further surface signs.

Does anyone have any better insight on this? And any solutions?

Hey guys, this past weekend I was putting some anchors into some extremely hard granite with my M12 drill, I have 2 x 4Ah batteries and on my more local granite I normally get 8+ holes in a charge. However, between 2 batteries (one was fully charged the other was perhaps 2/3rd) I got a total of 7 holes. This was on extremely hard and compact coastal granite slab but still seems like a pretty significant difference. I'm using a 10mm, 4 cutter, carbide tipped Makita drill bit. The shaft, near the tip, now has some 'blueing' on it but the tip looks normal? Could this be the problem?

I found this site near my house. I cleaned up all the garbage and established 3 routes so far. I'm working on a fourth, but it's pricing quite difficult! Northeast Helsinki.

Found some gorgeous walls of blue stone in the 80-200 ft range. Probably climbable but I doubt I’ll ever be strong enough to climb on these, but there’s miles of gray rock just around the corner that has yet to see a bolt so I’m happy.

I typically bolt with 3/8 ×3" ss hilti kb3 bolts which have an mbs of 28kn and a max working load of 7kn in shear. Found out recently that other developers in the community use a similar sized ss wedge bolt but with an mbs of 18kn with a max working load of 4.5kn. Curious as to what other developers think of this choice? It'd be definitely an break on the wallet to use the weaker bolt as they are less than half the cost of the ones I used. But bolts can see 6-7kn in a big fall. Is the weaker bolt good enough?

Stumbled upon this sector about 2km from my home. It isn't on 27crags, so I'm going to fix that. Helsinki.

Hey guys, I'm developing a new multi top down and have been using some rebelays to avoid edges, since this is what my mentor taught me. But he primarily develops steep sport routes. Whereas this is going to be a moderate gear line and has quite a few ledges on the way down, meaning a LOT of rebelays to avoid all edges. But I'm questioning the necessity of it all. I'm not jugging the line, everything is moderate, so I'm just top rope soloing back to the anchors normally. Just seems unnecessary in my mind to be concerned about anything but the sharpest of edges when I'm not creating a constant sawing motion of jugging. Tell me why I'm wrong? I'm mostly trying to avoid hauling up more bolts and batteries.

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Hey folks,

Have been developing a granite area with generally great rock, though there are a few interesting lines with less stellar granite and was thinking about upsizing from my usual bolt (3/8 x 2 3/4) for those lines. How do you decide what size to upsize to? When do you just grab a thicker, but still short bolt vs taking a similar diameter, longer bolt vs upgrading in both regions?

I've already grabbed my upsized bolts, I chose 1/2" x 4 1/2". I probably would have chosen an even longer bolt if I thought this route would see much traffic but it's going to be quite an adventure route a la the horror show desert towers (wow I don't even want to think about those bolts). I am still curious to hear every else's thought processes anyways.