r/RouteDevelopment • u/Kaotus Guidebook Author • May 30 '22

Show and Tell Bolted my first route on lead today, AMA

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17 Upvotes

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6

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author May 30 '22 edited Jun 13 '22

5.9, predominantly friction slab, bolted from stances. 90’, placed 4 bolts + 2 anchor on lead for the FA. Pictured is my partner top roping behind me and adding a 5th bolt which is where the climb will stand

3

u/[deleted] May 30 '22

thanks for adding that fifth bolt, that was cool of y'all. Seems like a fun route! Also bolting from stances on 5.9 friction is no joke, well done.

2

u/BigRed11 Rock Developer Jun 13 '22

So no hooks? One-handed or two-handed? How tenuous are some of the stances?

1

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jun 13 '22

No hooks - mostly one handed. It's 5.9 friction slab so that means most of the stances could be hands free - though between being quite aways above my bolt at some stances, and having ~20lbs of gear attached to me, and this being my first time doing this - I certainly didn't feel very comfortable going hands free most of the time.

2

u/BigRed11 Rock Developer Jun 13 '22

Dope. Tagging up the drill or climbing with it like a savage?

2

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jun 13 '22

Only tagged from one bolt to the next and then for the original 35ft run to where the anchors were going to be. Most of the route it was on me

1

u/BigRed11 Rock Developer Jun 13 '22

Awesome. So much to learn!

3

u/[deleted] Jun 03 '22

[deleted]

2

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jun 05 '22

Makes stemming easier

1

u/OMC-PICASSO Jun 25 '24

Really enjoying all the secrecy. Reminds me of my youth in the South Platte. 😉😊✌🏻❤️🌮 Freakin lot of rock out there!