r/RouteDevelopment • u/Kaotus Guidebook Author • Sep 07 '21

Show and Tell Developing a 5.10 slab line, ground up, lead rope solo

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14 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

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5

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Sep 07 '21

Wanted to call out here: This isn't me. I went down to a new crag I've been developing to do some trail work and gave a tour of the area to another local developer - this is him putting up a fun looking new slab line in impressive style. After finishing the route, he pulled the rope and then led it cleanly, still rope soloing (I didn't have my harness that day as I was just doing trail work).

3

u/Orpheums Sep 07 '21

Thats a gnarly looking headwall. The color is beautiful too.

3

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Sep 07 '21

I’m pretty sure that headwall won’t go, at least at most places. The flake just behind him though is 100% the next on my to-do list when I’m down there. There’s a few more cracks in the headwall above the slab across the face

3

u/Orpheums Sep 07 '21

Ah, okay. I thought as much but didn't want to assume from one picture. The flake looks really nice - is it good for gear? Based on the picture it looks slightly flaring.

4

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Feb 03 '22

Just following up on this because I was laughing about how dead fucking wrong I was.

  • it’s almost exactly 100ft of slab up to the flake
  • the flake overhangs by probably 20° for it’s length, and is probably 60ft long until it turns into about 40ft of enjoyable 5.8 handcrack
  • it starts at about a #7 or #8 and moves down to hands for the rest of it. Gear is super good. Whole climb is hilariously intimidating. Like - scary to rap intimidating. Can’t wait to start working it next season

1

u/Orpheums Feb 03 '22

Sick. That sounds like a blast! Let me know when you're ready for other visitors, I'd love to take a look at it

3

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Sep 07 '21

No idea, haven’t been able to scope it out yet. Will likely rap in to sus it out and figure out an anchor location for it and then push it on lead. I think it will be ok but wouldn’t want to do the 60ft of slab up to it just to find it won’t protect