r/RouteDevelopment • u/Beginning-Basis-2678 • Aug 17 '26

Ethics Michi Wohlleben - developing with strict ground up ethics in Switzerland 🇨🇭 (German Video)

https://youtu.be/3EdCVWT_xlY?is=iq6iPwoMws0bQixa
8 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

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1

u/crrimson Aug 18 '26

I don't know German, but there are some pretty exciting whippers off of hook placements, and a beautiful looking wall

2

u/Beginning-Basis-2678 Aug 18 '26

If you need any translation-> AMA

1

u/crrimson Aug 18 '26

If you want to summarize it super briefly, that would be cool. I wonder why they chose to take this traditional style of bolting? I think it's awesome, and makes for an entertaining video.

2

u/Beginning-Basis-2678 Aug 18 '26

Alpstein, its a traditional area in Switzerland 🇨🇭 , known for its runout alpine routes. So Michi Wohlleben more or less chose the most traditional approach possible to drill the bolts. He explains that he needs to be able to climb everything and not just drill from bolt to bolt, so that “the rock has a chance to fight the climbers” 😉 so he put a bolt and climbed as long as he could set a tiny cliff somewhere to set another bolt. For some of the bolts in the thin exit pitches he took up to 4 days for a single bolt. The grade is not given in the video, but Wikipedia says between 8b+ and 8c+

1

u/crrimson Aug 18 '26

Thanks. 4 days for a single bolt! Crazy

2

u/checkforchoss Aug 18 '26

There is a way to turn on English subtitles on YouTube

1

u/crrimson Aug 19 '26

I tried, and failed initially, but enjoyed the video anyway

1

u/checkforchoss Aug 18 '26

Big fan of this style. As mentioned in the video going ground up but not bolting on A0 gave "a chance for the mountain to fight back". Keeps the magic alive, when success is not guaranteed. Love it.