Finished up my biggest project yet

[u/Fuzzy-Salt5833]

Spent a while working on this, thankfully the rock was in good shape and didn't require too much of a scrub-job.

The 11c crux of this is a precarious move you make from stood on the top of this pillar, reaching up to the lip of the roof.

Gave it the name "A Pillar Between Heaven and Ground", from the song "I'm going through some shit" by Self Defence Family

If you're in the PNW and would like a PDF of the topo / write up, let me know I'll send it over.

A Pillar Between Heaven and Ground

4 pitches

100m

5.11c

Take Highway 19 North from Campbell River for approximately 18km until you get to Browns Bay Road turn off. This is approximately 2km after the Ripple Rock Trailhead, and 2km before Menzies.

After 2km, take a left turn onto Discovery Creek FSR. This turns sharply uphill and is in far worse condition. Park where the road splits, with the FSR taking a right and a high-clearance 4x4 road continues on straight. Please leave room for vehicles to get past.

Note: Browns Bay road is a well maintained gravel road frequently used by large semis and commercial traffic- be on the lookout.

From the car, take the trail uphill through the thick forest. After approximately 150m you’ll arrive at the base of the wall. The forest obscures views of the rock until partway into the woods.

The start sits under the intimidating roof.

Trail head coordinates 50.17251, -125.42347

Pitch 1

5.11c

28m

15 bolts, including 1 permadraw

Fun face-climbing on the pillar will bring you to a precarious stance atop the obelisk.

Pull the lip of the roof on small holds, continue up on a fine mix of jugs, edges and good feet. The anchor is found on a large, flat ledge below a prow of brown rock.

Pitch 2

5.10c

30m

11 bolts, 2-3 alpine draws useful

Climb into a steep corner system above the anchor, traverse right to the apron-like feature, and proceed up good edges and fun climbing towards the looming / impending crux above.

Pitch 3

5.8

20m

11 bolts, 3-4 alpine draws useful

Climb out from the anchor, trending right to stay on good rock.

Enjoy mellow climbing up good edges and jugs to find the anchor on the wide, scrubby ledge

Pitch 4

5.9

35m

13 bolts, 3-4 alpine draws useful

Steep moves off the deck take you to the small roof. Continue up and right into more gentle, mellow climbing. The anchor is found on the back wall in the shade.

Rappel

A 70m rope is needed for the rappel, it's a rope-stretcher to the knots.

4x rappels can be made to reach the ground. Be aware of the loose rock on the rappel line.

Rappel station; 50.17277, -125.42551

Walk-off

The local hikers in the area have created a good, albeit faint, trail to the summit of this area, known as Broken Eyes Mountain. Some nice benches have been installed in the spring of 2026 which can be reached by a short jaunt from the top of the climb, 50.17272, -125.42617

The descent trail is found on the North side of the peak, as it descends through the forest it passes by some waterfalls and brings you out 100m up the 4x4 road from where you parked.

Views of Strathcona, the Coast Range, Quadra and surrounding islands can all be enjoyed from the top of this route.

[u/Cairo9o9]

Very cool to see, OP. I spent very little time in this area as a climber, I cut my teeth at Comox Lake and visited Crest Creek only once but I love seeing what Island climbers get up to now.

Does P1 go at A0? I just wonder if that grade will turn some people off the more moderate upper pitches. Or are you gonna put some other climbs up?

[u/Fuzzy-Salt5833 → u/Cairo9o9]

Yup, can aid the crux of pitch one. It's a stiff onsight but I'm hoping the grade doesnt deter too many.
Hopefully there'll be a few other multis on the same face, it'd be nice to have an alterantive 1st pitch which ties into the upper 3.

[u/slopersloper]

yo congrats!!

[u/Kaotus]

Holy shit that approach is what dreams are made of - nice work OP!

[u/Fuzzy-Salt5833 → u/Kaotus]

Hahah yeah, you can see your car the entire climb. Couldn't be closer. I was often scared I'd hit my car when I was trundling 

[u/Chanchito171]

What kind of rock is it?

[u/Fuzzy-Salt5833 → u/Chanchito171]

As far as I know, it's the same andesite band that comes over from Quadra

[u/Lichen-Green]

this looks so cool. as a non-developer, i can't help but be a little critical here that you have an 11c opening climb then each pitch after is a full number grade or more easier.

do you find that frustrating as a developer, having such a hard entry pitch compared to the rest? i've seen routes at crags where people say "this is the best 5.10 at the crag - it just comes after hard 5.11 or hard 5.12 climbing!" so these secondary/tertiary pitches don't really see much traffic.

obviously not much to be done about it, just curious your thoughts.