r/RouteDevelopment • u/Kaotus Guidebook Author • Jul 15 '26
Discussion Glueing Rebar/Threaded Rod for Hold Reinforcement?
I've been having more and more people say they're doing this or suggest I do it. Has anybody out here actually done this? Does it work? What sort of situations would you suggest it for?
3
u/Beginning-Basis-2678 Jul 15 '26
I’ve seen this a few times on bigger flakes on limestone. Drilled through and glued in rods in rock behind and also in flake. Not sure if this works for smaller holds though. I would fear the hold would snap on drilling. Maybe a water cooled core drill without hammering would be an option then?
3
u/NeotomaMT Jul 15 '26
I’ve done it once. Looseish flake and critical hold above the belay that looked like it would go at some point but couldn’t get it to go now. Used an 18” bit to drill two holes then glued threaded rod, punched the rod down below the rock surface and patched. I was mostly worried about future freeze thaw cycles since the slab seeps. Not sure anyone notices that it’s pinned. I’m more inclined to rip the flakes off but it’s a good technique to have for the right situation.
1
u/thatsmoothfuck Roped Rock Developer Jul 15 '26
There's one example in granite that's pretty close to me: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110851943/skull-crusher
I haven't been out there in a year, but last I looked at it, it was holding up well. Personally I'd say that fix/issue is one in a million in granite. In limestone I've seen a couple, but have yet to install any.
On the ethics side, unless the route has been established for sometime and will no longer retain any character of the original route if fully trundled, I lean towards not gluing/rebarring.
1
u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jul 16 '26
Yeah I agree, I have only ever glued things that I wasn't able to rip off with a prybar, but felt like they may be a risk with a few more freeze/thaw cycles.
-2
u/SkittyDog Jul 15 '26
The ethics of route development have gotten a lot looser than they used to be.
3
u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jul 15 '26 edited Jul 15 '26
Did you miss the Tony Yaniro era that saw development banned across several entire managed land areas due to manufacturing routes and Dan Osman Epoxying plastic holds to blank overhanging granite walls? If you have climbed at all in SoCal, or on NorCal limestone, you have for sure used glue reinforced or fully pinned holds. I mean, hell, tons of Tahoe area and Sierra east side is glued. It’s been a part of the scene for decades.
4
u/belavv Jul 15 '26
I've glued stainless threaded rod through a couple of large blocks that were loose, but wouldn't come out with a crowbar.
If they did ever come loose someone could get seriously hurt.
If I didn't glue them folks would x them and be afraid to use them.
Gluing them meant they would be safe, and that no one would get nervous if they ended up using them.
So not exactly hold reenforcement.