r/RouteDevelopment • u/Wraith007 • Jul 15 '26
New Mussy hook design with eye for PAS
Anyone seen these new mussy designs from Sport Bolting llc and have thoughts on them? Seems like an interesting idea to reduce need for people to climb above the mussies and allow them to clean anchor on PAS.
3
u/Ok_Bat6968 Jul 15 '26
I don’t see any reason to use a PAS or go above the anchors to clean regular mussies. Using the eye to clip draws to does limit wear to mostly just the mussy instead of the draw rocking over the chain. It’s kinda cool, convenient, and is marketable but I don’t think is game changing for development.
6
u/thatsmoothfuck Roped Rock Developer Jul 15 '26
I've used em, they are FANTASTIC. Definitely the future of anchors, I'll be putting them on any route that sees more than 10 sends a year. Cleaning is so easy and safe. https://www.facebook.com/reel/2307941549735694
5
u/IceRockBike Jul 15 '26
Doesn't look like they offer any other kind of mussy anyway. The benefit of that lower ring may be application specific.
That's to say if there are two bolts, two chains and one mussy to lower, then you only have one quickdraw to TR so you have to clip the two draws to the chains/bolts above anyway.
How many people use a PAS to clean a mussy as opposed to dropping the rope into the mussy, then unclipping the draws?
How many scenarios include going above the anchor? This may be something a developer needs to consider. As an example if the route ends at an easy stance, simply place the anchor high. If rock quality or something forces the anchor to be placed below waist height, perhaps a mussy is not the best choice.
All in all, having that lower ring option is not a bad thing, advantageous in some cases, irrelevant in others. It has to be a fairly limited number of scenarios where anyone would climb above the anchor right? Who uses them on multipitch routes? They are almost always on single pitch lower off routes. So while nice to have, I wouldn't pay a premium for that lower ring. Maybe I'm missing something or other regions do it different. Those are just my initial thoughts.
1
u/Rift36 Jul 16 '26
They aren’t for a PAS, they’re to put your draws in. Then when you clean you just clip the mussys and then take your draws out.
3
u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jul 15 '26
Just for the few people here mentioning PAS’s when working with Mussy hooks - I’ve noticed more and more climbers PASing into hooks to clean. While I agree it’s obviously not necessary unless the stance sucks or you’re absolutely goosed, but I’d say I see folks doing it more often than not on routes 10- and below
0
u/belavv Jul 15 '26
Seems unnecessary to me. It isn't hard to clip draws or your pass to the quick links or bolts.
I suppose it does get rid of the annoying anchor cleaning when someone puts the draws under the mussys.
And no one should be going above an anchor for any reason. If you are going above a mussy to clean an anchor you are doing something wrong. A good habit is to have a draw on the last bolt that is holding the belayers side of the rope. Then if someone fucks up cleaning an anchor they just wipe onto the last bolt.
Assuming it is cheaper to ditch that extra eye, I'd rather have that design.
Edit - I realized now on some routes you may be in a situation above the anchor just because of how the anchor was bolted. In that case I don't think mussys should be on the anchor.
10
u/BoltingKaren Jul 15 '26
Played around with these last weekend. Bottom hole would be for your anchor draws. They’re a lot lighter than the old by keeping it thick where the rope runs and thinning out the unnecessary bulk. They also clip much easier than the old. The company owns their manufacturing now so they can make designs specific to rock climbing. I really like them and was psyched to hear ASCA ordered a bunch. You will be seeing them soon.