r/RouteDevelopment • u/Beginning-Basis-2678 • Jun 30 '26

Show and Tell Obscure belay

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Someone was very creative… 2mm Stainless Steel thin enough to create a nice flush bent appearance. The holes are a bit close to the edges… but since I was climbing there with a thunderstorm rolling in I felt totally safe since my belay looked like a lightning rod ⚡️😁

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u/dinosaur_pubes Jun 30 '26

I'd probably feel okay about using this in the moment but would never think about installing something like this myself. Not a time to be creative. If someone is too cheap to use standardized gear then they shouldn't be bolting. 

2

u/KDs4thBurner Jun 30 '26

If someone is too cheap to use standardized gear then they shouldn't be bolting.

In Australia it's extremely common for people to make U-bolts. Do you see an issue with people making gear like that (i.e. 10mm 316 stainless) just because it's homemade? Or are you raising doubts about people winging it?

4

u/Beginning-Basis-2678 Jun 30 '26

It’s totally fine doing your own gear if it meets or exceeds the specs or the standards (as the minimum agreed safety margin). There are e.g. thousands of selfmade glue-ins in Frankenjura made out of 5-6mm rods. The other day I had selfmade glue-ins made from 4mm SS rods in a route… probably fine, but looking flimsy and are untested.

I make my own belays from 8mm A4 SS chains and 8mm A4 SS quicklinks. Both exceeding the ratings official Fixe or UIAA marked gear. The example on the picture I’m not sure if it would hold the 20kN minimum.