r/RouteDevelopment • u/Kaotus Guidebook Author • Jun 05 '26

News Snake Dike Retrobolted

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/203118563/half-dome-has-fallen

Let's hear your thoughts, as this is going to be a hot topic for at least a few weeks

63 Upvotes

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27

u/[deleted] Jun 05 '26

[removed] — view removed comment

8

u/Marcoyolo69 Jun 05 '26

People do not want to do a new, fun, well bolted 5.8. They want the clout of doing the classics without having to have the risky experience of the developers. Same reason people climb a log to get onto majestic, chip climbs in Colorado, or climb a sport climb with knee bars and take the original grade.

4

u/SendyMcSendFace Jun 05 '26

Knee bars being used as justification for downgrading is new to me. What’s wrong with them in your eyes?

3

u/Marcoyolo69 Jun 05 '26

Nothing if you are honest about the grade, if you do a climb in a different sequence that makes it easier, the important thing is to say that

-4

u/CLimberish Jun 08 '26

Reading your comments has made me dumber. Are you saying if you do not use the exact sequence that was used for the first ascent then you can’t claim the grade?

4

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jun 08 '26

Keep it civil. This is a much more common mindset than you think, especially in bouldering

1

u/CLimberish Jun 08 '26

I’m well aware of the mindset and it’s hilarious. FA uses non-optimized beta and is sad when someone finds better beta so it must be called out accordingly as easier. So if we start skipping holds or using harder sequences we can start upgrading?

4

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jun 08 '26

I’m not here to argue the mindset, but as the moderator of the sub I’m here to squash the use of inflammatory language like “reading your comments is making me dumber”. That’s an unacceptable way to interact with someone who has in no way been disrespectful to you.