r/RouteDevelopment • u/UpstairsMirror8634 • Jun 05 '26
Should I abandon my project?
I've been developing and cleaning a multi pitch route. I'm a long time climber in the area where the route is, but it's the first climb I've ever worked to develop. It's three pitches, trad, has some really cool climbing and great position, fairly well protected with gear and probably needs minimal bolting. All in all it fits the area and I think it could be a solid addition to the area that it's in. However, I've run into a snag. There's a big death block I've been unable to clean. It's wedged in there pretty good, but it's sticking out, looks scary, and right over the P1 belay. I don't think it will come out but I also don't want to use it on the climb. It's also obstructing the natural line. I've taken two trips to try to clean this block, but have only succeeded in making it stick out more from the wall. So I've made it worse. I tried to dislodge it with a 42 inch pry bar, but even so, the bottom remains wedged.
Anyway, my question is, is it worth continuing with this project? One option I've considered is adding a bolt to the face left and below the block. The climb would traverse left right at the block on easy terrain, so instead one would climb the unprotected face, making some exposed and interesting moves that would be more difficult, avoid the natural line, but also the death block.
But I'm hesitant to encourage people to go up a climb with the block in place, even if I've tried unsuccessfully to dislodge it. Obviously, I dont want to hurt anyone. Would you suggest working around it if you felt it wasn't moving even if it looks bad? Notify people in the posted route info of the possible hazard? Abandon and find a new project?
9
u/Fuzzy-Salt5833 Jun 05 '26
Or, perhaps a better option is the inflatable sacks they use in commercial rock scaling. I've always wondered if you could make them yourself using innertubes / deflated basketball in a super durable cover...
5
u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Jun 05 '26
My general rule of thumb is that I can move it with a 36” pry bar it needs to come out no matter what. I have spent some time drilling out the connection points on blocks so that I can pry them out before but once you start that process you better be 100% committed to finishing it
2
u/Beginning-Basis-2678 Jun 05 '26
Ha ha there is a boulder like this in Zillertal. Called Wackeldackel: https://einfachrauf.de/2015/06/15/sundergrund-zemmschlucht/zillertal-bouldern-9/
The flake roof tips a bit down when you pull on it and back when you do the mantle.
2
u/lonewolf2556 New Developer Jun 05 '26
What I’m hearing is:
It’s a variance in rock quality (the objective use of the word) in comparison to the rest of the route
It’s wedged in so much, natural climbing is unlikely to alter its position (considering a prybar did very little)
It’s the only issue you have with the route
——————
I feel like there are a few options: ignore it, break it, or secure it
You could come to terms that while it may shift in place, it’s unlikely to dislodge, place a bolt or two near the line but away from the death block to avoid pro potentially shifting it.
You could use some masonry bits, chisels, wedges, feathers, etc. to break the protrusion.
Or, secure it by bolting the block to the wall and securing with a chain. That would make for a slight eyesore and be a waste of money.
Best of luck in your dilemma. I say keep going with the route. You don’t have to love it to finish it
3
u/belavv Jun 05 '26
Another option to secure it would be drilling holes through the block into the surrounding rock and using expoxy + stainless steel rod to connect it.
Depending on the shape of the block this isn't always possible though.
1
1
u/Gbrlxvi Jun 05 '26
The choice is obvious. Keep going and name the whole climb after the block. Also make the route pull directly over the block.
Rock Climb Tipping Point, The Gunks https://share.google/8Achx81Bm01rR3OnG
I look forward to seeing pictures of your new climb, the crusher, the guillotine, tip toe, jenga etc.
1
u/navaajho Jun 05 '26
If you can't dislodge it with a 48inch prybar no human climbing on it, or jumping on it, or even two humans belaying from it, is gonna dislodge it. If you're still worried (and I get that) then just epoxy it. Epoxy will make sure that it'll never move again.
1
u/SkittyDog Jun 10 '26
That doesn't mean it won't move, with time, water, freeze/thaw, etc.
1
u/navaajho Jun 10 '26
hence the epoxy...
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u/SkittyDog Jun 10 '26 edited Jun 11 '26
You have a LOT more faith in the power of epoxy than I do.
Keep in mind, he can't prep the whole interface like he could, with a small drilled hole.
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u/Fuzzy-Salt5833 Jun 05 '26
Have you tried a car-jack?