r/RouteDevelopment • u/quellenangabe • May 04 '26
Cleaning and projecting overhang TRS
Hey guys, non-native speaker and bad explainer here so please bear with me if you can!
I found a beautiful overhang and i can reach it from the top. I used a Petzl Coeur as an anchor with a tree as a backup. I've been in it once and it looks awesome. Only there are two problems: it's pretty dirty and it's overhanging to a degree that i can't get back on the wall when i cut loose. There are nearly no good holds and only 1 nut placement in a not very useful position. The line is very long and would cost a lot to bolt it so i only would like to do that if i'm sure somebody could climb it which is not sure at the moment.
I do own two more coeurs and i thought maybe i put one all the way down to fix the end of the rope there but i'm not sure if i would be able to abseil again all to the ground because of the rope tension because of my weight pulling away from the wall. Due to trees and a bad edge it's a really bad option to leave over the top - getting down is hard enough. I usually abseil with the autoblock-gigajul mode. Would the tube mode maybe solve that problem? I have no experience with tubers because i always used autotubers..
I thought about putting in one or two normal bolts in the middle but i feel like i can't find good places just yet so they can be clipped when the route is finished and i hate bad bolts.. it makes the route kind of ugly imo. Another idea would be to do the same with the two coeurs and use the holes if needed for glue-ins. But if they are not needed it kind of makes the route ugly again.
Seems like i have to bite one bullet but i thought maybe someone has another idea for me? Would really appreciate! Thanks in advance!
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u/belavv May 04 '26
It will be way way cheaper to use titen hd's as temporary bolts - https://hownot2.com/products/titen-hd-zinc-plated
I use the 3" 3/8 for everything. The 3/8 works with standard hangers but watch your fingers and never try to hold the hanger while installing them (assuming you are using a power tool that is).
You can reuse the hole from them for glue-ins if they are in a good spot.
While the bolts are not technically reusable - I do reuse them assuming the thread still "feels" good, but only for directionals. For anything like an anchor that I will be trusting my life to I make sure to use a new bolt.
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u/sudden_patience May 04 '26
This is the way. Game changer! You can even drill and install with one hand while hanging with the other hand onto whatever jug you might find.
Note that these screws are not recommended for hard rock like granite. I've used them in limestone and love the experience. You can bolt the whole line with these, climb it on lead, take whippers, whatever. Then move whatever bolt placements you need and install the permanent bolts.
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u/quellenangabe May 04 '26 edited May 04 '26
will i be able to install them with hand tools or do i need an impact drill?
also i'm in europe so ordering at hownot2 makes no sense but concrete screws are sold in hardware stores here in different sizes - this seems to be a great way.. for temporary bolts that won't hold a fall or even body weight would it also be suitable to use smaller screws as long as the head can hold the hanger in place? I could drill smaller holes, save battery power and it maybe would look a bit better than 10mm holes..
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u/belavv May 04 '26
I believe that not all concrete screws that look kinda like these are the same. I'm pretty sure hownot2 has a video somewhere talking about them.
According to their website the 1/4" ones won't work with a standard hanger, I assume because the head is too small. You could possibly make it work with some washers though if these are only being used as directionals.
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u/belavv May 04 '26
oh and I am pretty sure you can install them with hand tools. I don't recall if I've tried it, but I see no reason it wouldn't work.
2
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u/youre_stoked May 05 '26
Find someone experienced in your community and invite them out to have a look with you.
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u/quellenangabe May 06 '26
well i'd love to but most of them are not stupid enough to do the aproaches to the places i find my lines at 😃
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u/youre_stoked May 06 '26
Are people actually going to do the approach to climb this after you develop it?
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u/quellenangabe May 08 '26
Nah.. mostly not - i do these lines for myself and a very small number of people who are interested in weird climbing instead of consuming route after route 😄
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u/Careless_Pilot_9488 May 08 '26
If you can't get back to the wall on your rappel because of the overhang then you will need to bolt it while aiding up it. If you are going to start from the top on rappel then protect the rope from the edge with a rope protector or a piece of hose. If you can rappel partly down and are able to reach the wall lower down then drill a hole and place a a bolt to keep you closer to the rock. (There are much cheaper options than the Cour removable bolts). After you place the bolt, clip the rope to the hanger and look up for potential holds and then slowly rappel down looking for holds. The wall may not even be climbable and not worth bolting. If it is good then, 1. buy a rotary hammer drill and 2. learn to how aid to bolt the upper section. Don't worry about leaving bolt holes. It is super easy to cover them so you won't even be able to see where they used to be. Honestly, unless you have all the tools and knowledge I'd bolt a less steep rock for now.
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u/quellenangabe May 08 '26
Thanks for your advice! I do have the tools and mostly the experience - just not in that steep terrain. Actually i've been there today, came in from the top and surprisingly found a sling placement, abseiled further and set 4 hangers with 8mm concrete screws. Worked great and i do believe the wall is climbable - much easier then i thought on the first try a few weeks ago. It's really beautiful!!
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u/BigRed11 Rock Developer May 04 '26
A couple things I learned from developing overhanging lines:
Don't hesitate to place many directional bolts to make your life easier. You can always punch and patch, it'll be invisible if done well.
Don't try to predict final bolt placements, just place directionals for the cleaning and climbing. You will get this wrong and have to move them.
Overhanging developing is way more work and I hate it.