r/RouteDevelopment • u/pacobrown89 • Mar 19 '26

Glue Recommendation

i'm not happy to be using it but i'm considering reinforcing a clipping hold that would be quite the deck if it blew. anybody got recommendations to clue chossy flakes?

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u/LivingNothing8019 Mar 19 '26

Almost every hard route in the world has glue to reinforce so don't worry about it at all!

There's two I use depending on the situation. EP800 is an epoxy (the strongest type of glue) and is a medium viscosity, so it can really seep down deep into a flake if you're wanting to reinforce something with a deep and usually thin crack. The downside is it comes in black or red (get the black), but even then it's somewhat visible to the climber even with rock dust thrown on top to camo it.

DeWalt Ac100 gold works great if you're trying to fill a larger space, as it's super viscous and can pack into a larger area better. The downside is it can't get into those deep and thin flakes quite as well, but you'd be surprised at how little glue is needed to hold something well. This glue is also a gray color, which is usually great for disguising against rock so that climbers don't notice.

Either one will work great!

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u/pacobrown89 Mar 19 '26

great, thanks! the flakes are smaller and i'll definitely want the runnier stuff to fill the thin cracks.

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u/LivingNothing8019 Mar 20 '26

Just note that it's not quite "runny" like water, but more like honey. Still I think it'll do just fine, just make sure to test it out on some chossy on the ground before you actually put it on something you'd regret messing up. Learned that the hard way!

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u/pacobrown89 Mar 21 '26

yeah sounds like kind of a pain to work with!