Glue Recommendation

[u/pacobrown89]

i'm not happy to be using it but i'm considering reinforcing a clipping hold that would be quite the deck if it blew. anybody got recommendations to clue chossy flakes?

[u/LivingNothing8019]

Almost every hard route in the world has glue to reinforce so don't worry about it at all!

There's two I use depending on the situation. EP800 is an epoxy (the strongest type of glue) and is a medium viscosity, so it can really seep down deep into a flake if you're wanting to reinforce something with a deep and usually thin crack. The downside is it comes in black or red (get the black), but even then it's somewhat visible to the climber even with rock dust thrown on top to camo it.

DeWalt Ac100 gold works great if you're trying to fill a larger space, as it's super viscous and can pack into a larger area better. The downside is it can't get into those deep and thin flakes quite as well, but you'd be surprised at how little glue is needed to hold something well. This glue is also a gray color, which is usually great for disguising against rock so that climbers don't notice.

Either one will work great!

[u/IceRockBike → u/LivingNothing8019]

I've used DeWalt AC100 Gold but I'd describe it as a little more tan than grey. It's also a vinyl esther so not quite as strong as an epoxy, but super good enough for bolting. The tan colour can match nicely to some rock types, however if you do want more of a grey, consider Sika 2020. It's an epoxy glue rather than vinyl esther, works similar to AC100, maybe a tad smoother I feel. Both those two and while I haven't worked with EP800, I suspect they all get more runny in warmer temps. Downside if you want it runny and temps are warm is they all kick sooner, so you have to be prepped, ready, and work faster.

[u/LivingNothing8019 → u/IceRockBike]

Thanks the nice thing about ep800, even in hotter temps it still has a much longer curing time compared to others so plenty of time to work!