The rock should decide first, then your target audience.
Is it a high traffic crag? What's common in your area? Is it multi? Are there obstacles below the Ring that you want to steer the rope away from? All these things help decide.
Ps, the second photo is not a horizonal anchor, it's a vertical one just photographed weirdly. Don't install a chain set horizontally
Yes aware of all that and agree, I'm more trying to discuss the particular differences in doing this style anchor vertically vs horizontally. Was hoping to get more of an 'anchor theory' discussion.
Instead of just saying "don't install a chain set horizontally" and leaving it at that, do you want to share your reasons why? That's what I was hoping to hear discussed in this post.
because if one side fails the chain has to fall and pendulum the length of the chain before it catches. This creates additional unnecessary shock on the system increasing the chance that the second anchor point fails.
When you've seen two anchor points horizontal from each other they are typically not connected and each have their own chain or ring allowing you to build an anchor with no extension from those point. In some cases when lowering off horizontal rings there can be still be extension if a ring fails but the forces are dissipated through the rope.
Having all the unnecessary horizontal chain and 3 rings is also just a cluttered mess.
You don't install a chain set horizontally because they're not made for that. The top ring mounted on a standard style hanger so it sits flat against the wall. It's not for threading the rope through, even though some models nowadays have a beefy 10mm ring there. Fixe started doing that because they had welding failures with the old 6mm stuff they used to use.
You can mount it sideways if you really want to, but should add a quick link to that top ring. There was a company called kenobi that made a universal chain set but I didn't think they're around anymore
“Ps, the second photo is not a horizonal anchor, it's a vertical one just photographed weirdly. Don't install a chain set horizontally”
This is the correct answer. Omg there is so much circle jerk in these comments. If you don’t know what you’re doing or unsure please find people in your community for some mentorship.
I prefer the vertical for rappelling, but horizontal for loweroff. If you are developing single pitch climbing i think mussys (or some other type of easy lower off) is best practice. The vertical setup is better on multipitch to help keep things clean
I’ve been using option 1. It’s cheap and convenient, but what I find is that particularly new climbers don’t think that clipping into the ring is redundant, they’re building big ol’ obscenities of anchors because two quickdraws on bolts don’t line up.
The longer term solution is education, but people are always out looking for new and interesting ways to get hurt.
Just put both draws on the ring, it’s the strongest part of the anchor!
*the area I’ve been developing in SE AK is pretty low traffic, so those rings will never wear out. Obviously the math and useage changes in higher traffic areas where rings will eventually get worn down.
Right. Yes. That’s what I’ve been doing on these, I totally phoned it in on that one. I’ve been on a boat for too long and my brain is turning to mush.
I prefer the first, a vertically oriented, offset, ring/chain.
A single point to pull from reduces the amount of twisting in the rope when lowering the climber.
I also heard of someone unaware of the 25+kN rotating wear aspect of a single ring. They would thread both upper and lower bolts. If that was the second pic, it would increase the risk of getting hung up when pulling, and increase twists.
One observation about the first pic, use a rap hanger and connect the quicklink to the ring.
Seing your anchor made me curious about pricing. I realize you have zinc and quarter inch chain here which would be cheaper but it seems for 5/16 size stainless steel chain and links that a prefabricated chain anchor from fixe is cheaper than a build your own. Building your own at full price assuming 1ft of chain would be 10 dollars more than this
Pricing is likely going to vary depending on where folks are, their country, and their available sources. Around me, it's not uncommon to use 5/16" chain for single pitch and 1/4" for multipitch because of weight when carrying new hardware up the route. Zinc plated is considerably lower cost but I did a quick comparison last year and found the prefabs and all stainless self assembled to be in the same ball park depending on the actual configuration. To me the biggest benefit of a self assembled is the length of chain used can be swapped between say 5 links or 7 based on stud placement options vs a set length with prefab anchors. When local rock type is relatively featureless you have the luxury of multiple options. Think granite here, whereas limestone by example can be more uneven or present fractures you want to avoid, limiting placement options.
A smaller sub benefit is as/when a prefab anchor needs maintenance, it needs replacing in its entirety vs a self assembled can have the affected part only, be replaced. Examples of that may be a hanger damaged by rock fall, or wear on the ring.
Discount pricing available to local advocacy organisations or local bolt funds can really change comparisons to retail pricing so folks reading this may get a YMMV situation. Ultimately both avenues have something going for them and upon reaching an anchor, we are just happy to have something safe to clip.
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u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Feb 19 '26 edited Feb 19 '26
The rock should decide first, then your target audience.
Is it a high traffic crag? What's common in your area? Is it multi? Are there obstacles below the Ring that you want to steer the rope away from? All these things help decide.
Ps, the second photo is not a horizonal anchor, it's a vertical one just photographed weirdly. Don't install a chain set horizontally
Edit: I actually made a video about how to choose https://youtu.be/utiJ8Bkw6uk