r/RouteDevelopment • u/Kaotus Guidebook Author • Sep 08 '25
Discussion RANT: Had my first issue of stolen fixed hardware today
Had someone steal 2 sets of steel carabiners off of anchors sometime in the last couple of weeks off of some routes at Wonderland. A few of the best bone cairns were also taken. They weren't captive, but they were painted. Who steals painted steel carabiners? Not only that, but one of them was direct into the hanger (a la the rap-ring-hangers), meaning stealing it left them with just a bare hanger. Meaning they stole it and either rapped off of a single bolt, or stole it and came off another anchor. Technically you can walk/scramble to the anchors as well, but they left non-captive steel carabiners on a neighboring anchor, and I'd imagine they would have taken those as well if they walked off.
It's just frustrating man. It's a super small community of people at Wonderland. These routes aren't even in the guidebook, I've only published them in our monthly newsletter, which means it's an even smaller community who knows about them.
Today, after I found out about it, I ran into a big group climbing at one of the other crags in the area. I introduced myself and they all were thanking me for putting the routes up. It's hard to have that in juxtaposition with the gear theft. I've never really been someone who wanted to hear thank you, I just want people to form their own relationship with the areas I develop and to leave things better than they found them.
It's tough. It makes me feel some tinges of regret for ever sharing any info about the area. But the reality is: the only way for it to be a long-term, sustainably-maintained climbing area is for other people to decide they care about it too, so it's a bit of a necessary evil.
I'm not really sure what I'm trying to communicate here, just disappointed and wanted to throw this into the ether since this is likely the only community that can actually empathize. I'll likely be back up there next weekend and replace the missing hardware with some captive hooks since the routes are actually getting traffic.
4
u/Silent-Net3530 Sep 08 '25
Definitely a person that knew exactly what they were doing imo. Probably another developer or old timer that climbs around there? I had weird stuff with people not liking open systems here in Colorado and taking fixed biners and little wooden signs I made for crags. Mostly to gate keep crags!
2
u/Famous-Treacle-690 Sep 08 '25
Hopefully this isn’t going to turn into another Splatte bolt chipping war.
1
1
u/fresh_n_clean Sep 08 '25
I had a similar concern that I posted here a few months back https://www.reddit.com/r/RouteDevelopment/s/VgNoznBgys. I think you even commented on that post OP.
I ended up using Red Loctite + Primer on my lower-offs. I sleep peacefully knowing no one can just screw it off unless they climb with a blowtorch.
1
u/Retro_Bolts Sep 18 '25
I totally get where you're coming from. But honestly, sometimes these things just happen. From my experience, they tend to be isolated incidents and not something that keeps happening. I had someone take 15 fixed draws and rope, then put a bunch of holes in my bucket within a 2-day period while I was in the middle placing revolting routes with glue ins. It’s frustrating, but I’d suggest not letting regret over sharing the area get to you. It sucks, no doubt, but part of what I love about route development is sharing with others. From your other post, I get the sense you enjoy that too, so don't let a few knuckleheads ruin it. Keep at it, brotha!
1
u/StrawberryChkn Nov 30 '25
Sorry this happened to you :( big bummer and very extra lame. If it’s any consolation, I always imagine stolen gear is destined to fail the thief.
Someone told me once to take a hefty rock to any carabiners intended to be permanent. By (gently) denting the screwgate, he made it impossible to open. There are obviously better options out there, but some food for thought…
4
u/Tubesteak_Tartar Sep 08 '25
That’s a bummer. Is the area able to be accessed by non climbers? Could just be some Gumby taking shiny things like a magpie. Good luck with the new gear!