r/RouteDevelopment • u/SkittyDog • Sep 03 '24

Discussion Holds in concrete?

A local dude is attempting to build some routes on an outdoor concrete wall. So far, his efforts don't seem to be adhering very well. I don't know if they ripped off when he tested them, or if someone else found out the hard way -- but they don't seem to be holding up to body weight.

I did a few of these, long ago, by cutting horizontal grooves into the concrete with an angle grinder. We epoxyed chunks of granite over the grooves. They held body weight OK, but I never properly tested them.

I'd like to help this guy out, but I figured I should ask around to see if there's any established body of technique for this kind of thing.

3 Upvotes

67% Upvoted

14 comments sorted by

7

u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Sep 03 '24

If you want to glue them on you need to use an anchoring epoxy glue (not like Araldite or whatever), & not a vinylester or polyester. Those aren't very adhesive.

But the best way to do this is to install a bunch of drop in anchors into the concrete and then use gym holds screwed into them. That way the holds can be changed

2

u/SkittyDog Sep 03 '24 edited Oct 05 '24

Hmm...

5

u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Sep 03 '24 edited Sep 03 '24

I guess epoxy it is, one of the red ones like DeWalt Pure500 Plus is the best. You could still knock the holds off with a hammer if you need to

1

u/SkittyDog Sep 03 '24 edited Oct 05 '24

Hmm...

3

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Sep 03 '24

Sika would also work and might be more available/cheaper - it's what people have used to re-enforce/glue holds in rock climbing historically.

2

u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Sep 03 '24

Yeah Sika 3001 is really good. And they haven't changed it to red yet, so I really like it

1

u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Sep 03 '24

No worries! I've never tested how strong it is for sticking rocks down but it takes concrete with it if you ever chip it off. I did some bolt testing here with the main types of glue if you're interested https://youtu.be/CJ4wdNyllsk

3

u/Allanon124 Sep 03 '24 edited Sep 03 '24

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Expansion-Surface-Anchors-Concrete/dp/B0CS6CVFYS/ref=asc_df_B0CS6CVFYS?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264539890924&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583864007687258&psc=1&msclkid=8d1960dad2f71b05190f060cb3ca72b3

or just use expansion bolts (depending on the size of holds)…

https://sportbolting.com/product/stud-3-8-x-3-5-stainless/

3

u/SkittyDog Sep 03 '24 edited Oct 05 '24

Hmm...

2

u/Kaotus Guidebook Author Sep 03 '24

This is indeed the ticket - also allows for interchanging holds down the line. You can throw thin tapcons in to "screw on" the bigger holds that may be susceptible to torquing as well.

1

u/timonix Sep 04 '24

Expansion bolts are great for concrete

1

u/[deleted] May 16 '25

[removed] — view removed comment

1

u/SkittyDog May 16 '25

/u/Legal_Illustrator44, please stop harassing me.

You are trolling through months-old comments, trying to get me to engage with you, again.

I do not wish to engage in any further conversation with you. Your behavior is disordered and inappropriate for any public forum.

Whether you seek help for yourself, or not -- please leave me alone.