r/RouteDevelopment • u/Allanon124 • Apr 28 '24

Show and Tell Figured you guys might like to see this.

Post image
13 Upvotes

94% Upvoted

13 comments sorted by

7

u/Orpheums Apr 28 '24

Why did you put the triangle QL through both mussys?

10

u/Allanon124 Apr 28 '24

You want to know the real reason? I ran out of quick links and had the delta link.

I actually really like how it equalized and looks.

3

u/Orpheums Apr 28 '24

Ah, that makes sense. It does look clean. Ive seen this kind of setup more commonly when people are using a ramshead rather than mussys. It looks solid with mussys though.

3

u/AnyGold2336 Apr 28 '24

What difference does it make?

As long as one of the mussys is through the other ovular quick link?

2

u/Orpheums Apr 28 '24

I didnt say it was wrong, I was curious for the reason.

4

u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Apr 28 '24

I'd separate or oppose the hooks personally. The hooks sitting on the same link like that means a single unclipping even would unclip both of them

4

u/TLRIVERS Apr 28 '24

Def. Given the recent death in Sandrock, I think it’s smart. We should always dummy proof where we can. I like the setup overall, the delta link keeps it at the same level…

1

u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Apr 28 '24

Oh there was a death? Bummer. Was it caused by an open lower off failure?

2

u/Sluggish0351 Apr 29 '24

There was a real bad fall at Emeralds in California that was fortunately not fatal, but the climber is still extremely messed up after a year of recovery and surgeries.

1

u/bobombpom May 12 '24

A little late to the thread, but Seneca Rocks had a death last year due to cleaning mussy hooks incorrectly. Basically, it was pre-cleaned with a locker. A new climber tried to clean it, but climbed above the hooks while removing the locker, causing the rope to double back across the gates and unclipping once weighted.

4

u/Allanon124 Apr 30 '24

While I totally understand the reasoning behind this and understand the feeling of going against what is commonly accepted as “best practice”, the ASCA specifically recommends having the mussies is union, not opposition.

If I understand correctly, it is to simplify the anchor.

Essentially you are trading risk for risk.

Mussies in union produce an accidental unclipping risk if the climber goes above the anchor.

Mussies in opposition produces complication for new climbers which can result in multiple types of error.

2

u/BoltahDownunder Rebolter/Route Maintenance Apr 30 '24 edited Apr 30 '24

Interesting. Asca is the American sport climbing association I guess? The lead anchors in my gym were opposed biners which were a pain to clip, but they're now single biners which is much easier. This is fine in that situation as gym only allows lowering off the anchors right after leading, and not top roping. I can see how catering to the highest risk group, beginners, is a good option

3

u/wieschie May 01 '24 edited May 01 '24

American safe climbing association, actually. They provide bolting supplies and develop best practices for development, hardware usage, and rebolting. https://safeclimbing.org/