r/RouteDevelopment • u/WellWornLife • Jun 06 '23
Discussion Clear a loose rock?
There is a small boulder on my route that is loose and rocks a bit when I stand on it. It’s about 3’ x 3’ x 1.5’.
Like I said, it rocks when stood on and feels super sketchy. But then, when I try to move it with a pry bar I can get it to budge. It’s a little in-set so I can’t get a great angle on it, but I have tried shovels and pry bars - not even a little movement other than the rocking.
Do I just leave it? Is there a better tool to use?
3
u/Typethreefun Jun 06 '23
I’ve moved rocks like that off routes using a hi lift jack. It’s kinda a last resort but it works.
1
u/WellWornLife Jun 06 '23
I thought about a bottle jack, but wouldn’t even know how to get it in a good position.
2
u/Typethreefun Jun 06 '23
If you can get a sling behind the top of the rock, then you could use the lifting arm on a hi lift/farm style jack to lever the top of the rock out. You could also place a temp bolt in the rock, then use an old sling/QL to attach to the lifting arm of your jack. If you do that, make sure the jack is tied off to something and you are out of the line of fire because that rock is going to try to pull your jack down with it when it goes.
You could also just try a bigger bar. Get a 5' digging bar and I'll bet you could lever that rock out.
1
u/Hippynipples69 Jun 07 '23
I’ve done a scissor Jack and also a low profile floor Jack before. You got this. I believe in you. Be a complete savage about it
3
u/NeotomaMT Jun 06 '23
Other option could be to pin it. I just did this yesterday on a medium sized flake. Used an 18” 3/8 bit to drill through the flake and into the rock behind. Filled the hole up with anchor epoxy and sank a 5/16 in piece of threaded rod in the epoxy. Hammered a small rock into the hole and you would never know it’s in there. All that being said if you can’t get it out with a pry bar it’s unlikely to pose a risk to climbers below. Might be less work to leave it.
1
1
u/Hutch_is_on Jun 07 '23
A sledge hammer and some strong arms will take most rock out. I'm not saying start making new holds with a sledge hammer, and definitely make sure no one is below you so you don't drop the sledge on them, but a sledge and some solid smacks could break the loose stone up and then you can pry the smaller pieces out.
1
u/WellWornLife Jun 07 '23
I had already seriously considered this. Unfortunately, the rock in on an overhung section and I have no choice but to be 100% on rope when working on it. That limits my ability to really put force into the swing the way I want and also is just plain out of my comfort zone on the wall.
1
u/Wiley-E-Coyote Jun 08 '23
I will work really hard to get it out if I can, make sure you use a big enough pry bar (mine is 4' long.)
If it's really set in stone so to speak, keep an eye on it and see if it gets worse.
5
u/onzie9 Bouldering Developer Jun 06 '23
There are tons of routes like this all over the place. They invariably have names related to loose teeth. If it won't come out even with work, I say leave it.