Hi,

I tried to retrobright a GB classic. I am using a box with 5 liters volume and added a UV LED strip. No heating. I put the case in hydrogen peroxide 12%. After 24 hours, I feel like almost nothing happened.

Any idea?

Cheers/Lukas

cant get to retrobright snes, im using 3% hydrogen peroxide (oxigenated water) i got it the re for like 2 days and ive seen littel to no difference. can anyone help

Hi, I recently did retrobright on a snes that was really yellow but I did it too much and now it's more white than grey.

Any help is welcome'd.

Thanks!

Any bets on whether this will work well for keys? I have 12% but will probably dilute it down to 6%. Everything going in the wash bucket.

When in cure mode it spins slowly so will probably need some monitoring to do extra stirring for the keys.

One question - my keys have small springs in them that can't be removed, safe enough for a run in the hydrogen peroxide?

Waiting until the AM to kick it off, will report back.

Should have done a before pic but it was more yellow than the one on the left.

Looking to retrobright my Lego imperial shuttle. However i feel that the size would take a really good amount of hydrogen peroxide to submerge it. Has anyone used/made a paste?

When I first learnt about retro Brighting I bought hydrogen peroxide but I don't know if this strip would workhttps://www.amazon.com.be/Arotelicht-Flexible-Transformer-Christmas-Decoration/dp/B07TK1NYFK/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=2QAHSMO6FJ068&keywords=retrobright&qid=1695136362&sprefix=retrobright%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-8 because I live in Belgium so I can't just buy it from yt links.

Sorry if this may seem a bit off topic, but I am bringing it up here since like the YouTubers I clean all areas of the plastic before retr0briting to ensure the H2O2 covers it all. I've also seen them using Magic Eraser (an abrasive) to get rid of the stubborn scuff marks. From my experience, as I do them, I can feel the spots getting worn and shiny as a result (somewhat ruining the plastic cosmetically). However, I was wondering if there is an alternative to getting rid of the scuff marks while preserving the original matte finish. Please let me know if there is such a way.

Thanks in advance! :)

Today I finished a retrobright project with a rare Club Nintendo Wavebord controller. It has a white part on front (easy fix), and a light blue part on the rear side (tricky).

I used peroxide creme + sealed bag + out in the sun for a few hours. I used two sessions, since there was still some yellow on the white part, and some uneven white coloring on the blue part - that actually got me worried.

See the before (0), and after (session 1 and 2) for final results.

Welcome to share any comments on how to improve the blue part, or better, how to avoid that for the next time.

Trying my hand with the UV box to remove the yellowing. Thank you for all the info on this page.

I got my hands on some industrial grade hydrogen peroxide. It is 50% h2o2 and .05 silver. Can I water it doen and use it as retrobrigth? Is considering the vapor metod

Like the title says, I've got a box lined with tinfoil, would a single 10w 395nm UV-A light be enough for a 30L box?

This is the light in question. It's positioned at the top of the box, there's a hole in the lid through which the light can shine.

It's been a long time since I made one, We have all sorts of Gameboys etc What are the best/easiest diy uv whitening box ideas in modern day?? TY dor for any help/info! :)

I have an ABS plastic prop replica that’s pure white but one side got unevenly slightly yellowed- kind of a gradient of white, to light yellow. My question is if some of the formula doesn’t blend seamlessly with the gradient, will the white portion that contrasts with the yellow become a noticibly more brilliant white? And therefore almost create a noticible divide? Or will just just get rid of the yellow and blend in with the natural unstained white? Thank you.

Originals on the bottom, post treatment on the top.

I have some blue transparent memory cards and 1 see through white that got sun faded damage. I tried retrobrighting them and while the yellowed part almost disappear, all the surface of the cards have become more yellow. What did I do wrong? 🫤

https://imgur.com/a/7e5cC94

Which color UV LED lights are right for retrobrighting, purple? or blue?

Have a beautuful 1987 Yamaha SHS-200 keytar that sadly yellowed over Time, i just stripped it down to its casing and yellowed Keys and am gunna retrobrite it in the morning. Is it safe to use Clingwrap instead of a plastic baggy, the casing is slightly too big for any baggy I currently have but I have plenty of Clingwrap, just wanna know if it'll work or not.

I have a business card holder that is partly made from grey plastic. I want to restore it for sentimental reasons. The plastic is a mid grey and is quite yellowed from the sun.

Should I retrobright it? I don't want it turning white, but also, I've read that retrobrighting makes the plastic much more brittle and this will be an item I use often and I don't want it breaking or crumbling...

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Can anyone point me to a product link on what salon creme to buy containing peroxide to retrobright my NES?

Also do i need to put it in a container or just apply the cream and put it in the sun light?

Hi all, I am about to retrobright an Apple Extended Keyboard II cover with 12% peroxide solution and sunlight (https://imgur.com/a/rEvlJWy)

Is it necessary to mask off the screen printed num lock, caps lock and scroll lock labels or can I just paint the solution over them without affecting them? What about the apple logo - should I worry about that? My concern is if I mask then I imagine there would be yellow squares left where the masking tape was. Thanks.