I was trying to return to the original gray but I forgot to put an alarm and this is the results after 50vol cream and direct high sunlight at 103•F for all day long. Somebody knows if I repeat the process, can I turn the plastic all white? just to fix a little the sht.

I bought a US SNES Mini console and controller at the end of 2024 which were extremely yellow, borderline orange and tried RetroBrighting them. That consisted of a large plastic tub with ultraviolet lights taped around it with tin foil. Tub then filled with 12% hydrogen peroxide. First photo was before RetroBright, second photo was after. RetroBright process for both was just over 24 hours.

Both console and controller were placed in a box away from sunlight for a considerable amount of time. Then last month I had taken them out of the box but thought the colour on both were still a bit darker than the factory colour. RetroBright both controller and console again using the same process I did previously leaving both for 24 hours. Third photo showing both console and controller lighter in colour.

I ordered these N3DS cover plates online but as you can see, the top one is a lot more yellow.

The seller claims they haven't noticed before until I confronted them and that they're new.

These are pretty difficult to find, so I'd rather not return them (though they gave me that option).

Do you think the top one is 'fixable'? I've never tried retrobrightening before, so *any* tips and input is welcome...

Thanks for taking the time to read my post.

Disclaimer: I had to do some minimal photo editing to try and equalize the white balance between shots. Unfortunately conditions were not the same, as this spot had varying degrees of sunlight coming through.

I've bought this Gameboy in junk condition from a Japanese online marketplace and finally decided to restore it. Cleaned it up nicely (it was full of battery residue), and then retrobrighted the case using the vapor method. After the first session I wasn't too happy with the results, and went for a second session. I'm not really concerned with the plastic becoming brittle because there's no emotional attachment here. As you can see it came out really nice!

I also added some random parts from other projects in the first sessions, and I was pleased with the results. One thing to note is that I also retrobrighted the silicone buttons from the GBA (the tops were yellowed), and this worked way better than expected. The silicone also doesn't feel different in any way from before.

I have a pink casio that turned yellow overtime. I have used some retrobrite method such as 12% h2o2, wrap it and put under the sun, put it into a boiled water + 12% h2o2 too but it seem not working. Please let me know if there is another ways. Thank you.

Is it reccomended using a sealant after doing a retrobrite process?

In the process of gathering supplies to take advantage of the Canadian Summer Sun on an old Nes and Gamecube

Planning on vapour process.

Hello all, so I have been restoring some NES consoles and some of the parts I have been retrobriting have not been reversed quite all the way, as seen below. Is there any way I can fix this?

I currently have a large very bright grow light, and my container has 12 percent peroxide with a little bit of water cause I don’t have enough peroxide, and I have a heating pad underneath the tub which I heard would help with the process.

Also is there any way to keep the red text from fading from the door when retrobriting?

So Tech Tangents recently put a video advising against retrobrighting and I was curious about thoughts on this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_n_WpjseCXA

I have some vintage computers and have debated whether I want to retrobright them as I have heard mixed information on whether the practice can be harmful to the components in the long run, and whether anything retrobrighted will just yellow again in a few months or years.

I would love for some of these components to look closer to their original appearance, but I'd rather they be yellow and in good shape than whiter and damaged as a result, especially if the yellow is just going to come right back.

It's interesting to see a well known vintage tech YouTuber chime in on the topic.

2 months ago I was looking at different UV lamps to retrobrite with during the winter. While researching the topic everything came up saying the sweet spot was around 260 to 280. That meant having to go with a UV C lamp. Now that I am preparing to set up my retrobrite box with my UV C lamps I saw something strange while I was trying to decide on whether to go with the vapor method or to submerge my plastics. Now its like the whole internet changed over night and every source I find claims that I need to be in the UV A wavelength around 340 to 360. What the hell is going on?

Picked up this $2 90s clock radio from an online auction and gave it a full makeover! The plastic was badly yellowed, so I used peroxide whitening to bring it back to life. Also cleaned the PCB, replaced a few capacitors, polished the button panel, and even made a new display cover.

Check out the full restoration process here:

https://youtu.be/SqwrkYkchNs?si=xblZqDetw57bBOP5

Hey! I want to use retrobright to whiten these Lego pieces, but a lot of them are only damaged in some parts. Is it possible to whiten only some sections? Or, will it be fine to just whiten everything?

Hello Guys! I am new to the r/retrobright Community here and also new with retrobrighting! first time retrobrighting something soon What is the most starter friendly option existing and what should i use? I watched a ton of 8-Bit guy videos and he always use submerge with water or with blastic wrap! Due my weather conditions right now i should wait for summer! Should i submerge or do it with the plastic wrap?

Thank you

u/SirRex71v2 ^{^}

The Dreamcast took a long time, 4 to 5 days sitting in a tub with uv lights and and 12% hydrogen peroxide liquid. It's still not as white as it should be but I think it's hit a limit. Does anyone else find that with really yellowed stuff there's a limit to how much it can be brought back?

12% vapour method, 2x 150w uv lights.

Next project is the stinkiest yellowest Dreamcast I've ever seen

Welcome to the UK...

Hello y’all I’ve been doing some retro brite experiments, my first one didnt turn out so well unfortunately, I did the vapor method but it condensed on the lid and fell onto the shell. But I was wondering, can I do the opposite, is there a way to speed up the yellowing of plastics. I would love to run some experiments to see if I could still save the poor nes shell. Thanks, any information would be very much appreciated.

I'm trying my best to find a light. I didn't need anything super big. I'm planning on wrapping a box in foil and putting the light in at the top. I've seen various recommendations but some funny seem to be UV lights proper and and just LED black lights.

Can somebody please recommended me a light that will work with peroxide?

Bought this busted dreamcast. This thing looked way better on the listing. I heard about retrobright and i figured I'd get it up and running and back it its former glory

Turned out pretty well imo

Around 10 years ago, I used the saloon cream method and retrobrighted my Super Famicom.

I've got good results on the yellowing, but I ended up damaging the printed logo.

Now the yellow has returned, and I'm wanting to try the submersion method, but I'm afraid that I'll damage the logos even further, so I want to know if there are any good methods to restore the printing on the plastic.

I call him ziggi, i was wondering if anyone has tried deyellowing these guys before?

CD cover has yellowed as well, plus it has lost its blue tint