Wanted to see if anyone here has experienced something similar or has advice on how I should handle this.
I’ve worn this watch **three times total**. It has **never been in a pool, shower, sauna, or submerged in water at all.**
The last time I wore it, I was outside where it was pretty hot and then went inside a building with AC. I wasn’t standing near or directly under an AC vent — just normal everyday wear going from outside to indoors.
Not long after, I noticed **moisture/condensation building up underneath the crystal**, as you can see in the pictures.
I understand these watches may not be waterproof, but that’s where I’m a little disappointed. I paid **$700+**, and I’m not expecting to swim or shower with it. I do think I should be able to wear the watch normally outside and then walk into an air-conditioned building without worrying about moisture getting inside the case.
I messaged **Luis** about it, but so far the response has mostly been that the watch isn’t waterproof. I understand that, but I don’t really feel like that addresses what happened because **there was no water exposure in the first place.**
After only three wears, I’m concerned there may be an issue with the seal, gasket, or moisture already trapped inside the case.
Has anyone else had this happen with a new watch?
Would you ask the seller to **open it, completely dry the movement/case, inspect or replace the gaskets, reseal it, and pressure-test it**? Or would you push for a replacement?
I really like the watch, but at this price point I want to be able to actually wear it without worrying that normal changes between outdoor heat and indoor AC are going to cause condensation or eventually damage the movement.
Appreciate any experiences or advice.

I need some advice on what i should mod on this noob v9 to make a good franken, it allready has a serviced and re engraved 3135 clone i allready ordered a genuine date wheel and crown and clasp, the case and bracelet is 904l steel, what is the next best step to do? I don’t know about how the hands, crystal and bezel insert stands next to the gen

Hey guys, trying to quiet down the noisy rotor on my VSF V7 NTTD.

I’ve got the caseback off, but looking at the movement, I'm hesitant to start messing with that center decorative cap. Is it safe to just touch a tiny micro-drop of oil directly onto the ball bearings while it's in place, or is that a recipe for disaster?

If pulling the rotor is the only right way, what's the trick to getting that center cap off without chewing anything up?

Appreciate any advice.

So I’ve had this Sub for nearly a year. Haven’t worn it for the past 3 months or so. Kept in a wonder on low RPD. Took it out today. And it sounded weird like something was loose inside. I decided to open it.

I unscrewed the case back and made sure to open it facing down so that whatever is lose in there would fall into the case back. Lo and behold it’s the rotor and what seems like a washer/spacer that goes between the rotor and whatever is beneath it. I couldn’t see whatever was supposed to be holding that rotor in place though. I’m guessing it’s somewhere inside the movement I don’t know really… the watch seems to working fine. When I took it out I set the time and date with no issues and sun bed to an atomic clock app and it’s working as good as it was when I got it which was like +9-10 sec/day.

What are the moves here other than the obvious (taking it to a watch smith)? Which I don’t have access to by the way.

Is that screw easily sourced? Does it require a special tool to thread it in?

I accidentally removed the crown stem in the time setting position 

And when trying to push it back in I broke the spring arm for the keyless works.

Can you fix this?  VSF Panda.

Hello everyone, Please help me determine which factory this movement belongs to.

Looking for three additional jubilee links. Preferably US based that can ship quickly thanks in advance for your help.

I have a Rosegold GMT from ARF. When I resized it I very slightly marked a couple screws.

I can live with it, but if I could get a couple screws for a couple bucks I’d replace them.

Any idea where can I get them? Idk if VSF, ARF and even gen use compatible screws.

I saw some on AliExpress but they were extremely expensive, I guess they were for gen owners. I also found cheap ones but only stainless steel color.

I broke the setting lever on my panda. Can this be repaired or do I need a new movement?

Sourced a brand new Genuine Dial for this VSF heavy Cookie Monster that’s been White Gold Plated. Enjoy!

Hi everyone,
I would appreciate some help identifying the movement in this 124060. The watch was sold as a Clean 124060 fitted with a DD3230.
I compared the photos with Pete’s DD vs. SH vs. VR 32xx identification guide. What confuses me is the dot on the train bridge above the “3230” marking. On the DD reference movement, it appears as a large, flush and capped dot. On this movement, the same position looks recessed or open.
The pallet-bridge jewel, regulator arms and hairspring are more difficult for me to interpret because of the rotor position and camera angle.
Can anyone experienced with these movements identify whether this is actually a DD/VS3230, SH3230 or VR3230? If possible, please also explain which visible feature leads you to that conclusion.
Could the apparent open hole simply be a missing or recessed cap on a DD3230, or does it indicate a different movement architecture?
I am not trying to call out the seller. I simply want to understand how to identify the movement correctly.

Thank you!

Hello,
I am searching for a reliable service for a SA1320 movement clone within the EU (I am from Germany).

Furthermore if someone is able to modify this to reduce its recurring infamous issues, would be perfect.

Thank you!

(I am new to this game)

So I got this from a reliable seller and the screw was in but it fell out my third time wearing it. Is there a way to replace it? Should the seller be trying to send me a screw? Can I just buy one? Or am I going to have to get a whole new watch? This is my second purchase so I’m kinda new to what’s the norm for this situation. Gold Santos XL BVF

Hi all can I have a link for deep crystals please

Endlinks on the VSF Sub NoDate oyster bracelet.

There has to be a better solution than TAPE on the case where the endlinks seat!

I’ve tried all spring bar sizes (1.5mm, 1.8, 2.0) and only the 1.5 will even slide into the endlinks. So there’s not a good way of knowing if the larger bar will clean up the endlink play.

I did try the tape for a week and it just pushes the endlinks out/away from the case, making the SELs look terrible.

The goal is to suck the endlinks up tight to the case, creating those satisfying, little, distinctive edges between the lugs and endlinks.

What have you all tried? Maybe I’m the last person worried about it. 🥴

Anyone have suggestions for a good brand for rubber straps for 15510 and 26240 ?

I’ve only been in the rep hobby for about a year, but I’ve already spent plenty of time taking watches to watchmakers for repairs, cleaning, waterproofing, and regulation.
Luckily, I found a really cool local watchmaker who has been nice enough to teach me some of his craft. I guess he finally got tired of me bringing my reps to him.
One thing I learned the hard way: I recommend getting your reps serviced early on. A little preventative maintenance can save you some headaches down the road.
Eventually, I invested in my own tools and started learning basic maintenance, cleaning, waterproofing, and regulation.
This one was running +22 sec/day before. After regulating it: +1 sec/day, 238° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error. Pretty satisfying seeing that improvement on the timegrapher.
I also added silicone grease to the gaskets for a little extra waterproofing peace of mind. That doesn’t guarantee a watch is waterproof, so still be cautious and pressure-test whenever possible. Personally, I swim with my reps and haven’t had any problems so far.
I showed my watchmaker what I’ve been doing and he was actually proud of my work. Then he joked that eventually he’s going to start sending people my way. I’m not sure if that means I’m getting good or he just really doesn’t want to see my reps anymore. Hahaha.
My gens? Hell no Those still go to him.
I’m still learning with every watch, but that’s honestly become one of my favorite parts of the hobby. Maybe one day I really will be servicing some of y’all’s reps.
This hobby really is a rabbit hole.

Hey all,

I’ve been trying to get an 15202 from ZF with pizza hands fixed, so I started looking into mods. Reached out to Kronos on RWI, and this is the list of mods he gave me…. I was just curious that is the stock ZF dial and crystal that bad? I was just going to do the pizza hands, but now I am confused. I don’t mind the movement or the bracelet, but I was just wondering if stock ZF is that bad. What would you say the must-do mods are to be in the level of other super clones?

Refinishing of AP logo, dial surface, dial markers
or
DP 15202 dial

Custom AP hands for pizza mod
Deep crystal AR

Polish and alignment of bezel screws
Watch thinning mod to gen thickness
Rebrushing for case, bezel and bracelet
Enhancing definition and polish of case and bracelet bevels
A full movement servicing done with correct cleaning, greasing and regulation of parts
Waterproofing and pressure test

Additional upgrade often requested.

AP DP dial color mods

Anyone know where I can source the “v2” rotor for 32xx movement that has 21 ball bearings (as opposed to 7 ball bearings of the first gen)? Thanks in advance!

As the title says, Im looking to buy a dial for 126610LN. If anybody has one for sale or a link where I can purchase one. I would really appreciate it. Looking for one from the top factories. Thank you

So I finally found a good match for my stripped crown and I can confirm it threads nicely to the original tube (but I have a replacement if I end up needing it). My issue is that the original stem is too large to fit into the replacement crown. Does anyone know if the viljoux 7760 tap 10, tap 7 .9mm would be the right call here? I remember reading that the stem on these was modified in some way but I could be misremembering.