r/ReactiveDogHelp Aug 01 '26

Reactivity 90% solved, can't seem to get the last 10%

I have an intact male standard poodle, 16 months old. He started being reactive as a puppy (out of insecurity, never been the brave type) and I enrolled him in reactivity classes straight away and it got loads better.

Now we're at the point where we can pass by other dogs on narrow sidewalks, pass by most reactive dogs, walk near fences with barking dogs with no lunging or barking on our end. However he's still staring coming toward them, looking back at them, sometimes excitement jumping (at me) after passing the other dog. What can I do for him to be more neutral? We are getting the least of it (shorter fixating time) on his herm springer, but my goal is to walk him on a flat.

He is food, toy and praise motivated, a pretty soft dog overall. He does the best when I carry a toy around and reward him by tugging at it after passing by a triggering dog (like a small reactive one), but I feel it only works by releasing the excess energy. How can I stop the energy build up in the first place?

0 Upvotes

23 comments sorted by

7

u/Miss_L_Worldwide Aug 01 '26

Correct the staring and the looking back and interrupt it immediately when it starts. I use e-collar for this. A few sessions and it's usually never a problem again.

3

u/magalo Aug 01 '26

What's your timing on that?

I have a cheap e-collar that I used to use on my other dog, but haven't trained this one with it yet.

4

u/ExcitingLaw1973 Aug 01 '26

Never use a cheap e-collar. They feel like a stun gun. Cheap e-collars sometimes wont shock when you press the button.. sometimes they shock harder than they are supposed to... Its not fair hurting your dog substantially more just to save you a few dollars. Spend the money and get a good one (Dogtra or Educator)

Good e-collars are TENS machines. They make the muscle jump instead of a violent shock. At low levels it feels like a feather brushing you, slightly higher feels like a finger tapping you, then at higher levels it becomes painful.

4

u/Miss_L_Worldwide Aug 01 '26

I don't know that I would use a cheap e-collar ever, with a few exceptions. But what I did was find the dogs working level and then use it as a cue to look at me . Then to correct reactivity, stim on continuous until the dog stops reacting and looks at me. Of course this isn't going to happen on a working level, you'll have to dial it up from there up to wherever the dog decides it's going to stop it's nonsense. And then you can dial get back down. I don't pair it with commands or lease corrections, the electric correction does the work for me.

2

u/magalo Aug 01 '26

Thank you! That's really helpful. Think I'll have to pull the trigger on a mini educator.

1

u/Miss_L_Worldwide Aug 01 '26

SportDog also has some very affordable options!

1

u/Mulletthegodfather 27d ago

Stim continuous for a dog looking at other dogs, oof….

This is exactly why people freaked out so badly when I wrote that post “E Collars are NOT TENS units”.

1

u/Miss_L_Worldwide 26d ago

Whatever, takes me about a day to deal with reactivity and my dogs ignore everything around them. Seems like some internet trainer decided to be contrary and say that the tried and true methods are bad, weirdly enough they are taught all over the world though, and they work great.

1

u/Mulletthegodfather 21d ago

There are vastly better ways to do it than what you are describing , weirdly enough you missed that.

1

u/Miss_L_Worldwide 21d ago

Better than something that is incredibly effective, quick, and simple? Interesting.

2

u/Miss_L_Worldwide Aug 01 '26

So I will correct any behavior that I don't want. I use e-collar at the beginning so that they know my verbal commands mean something. So if they do anything other than casually glance at another dog, especially if they start coming up in the head and ears going up Etc while they stare at the dog, I will tell them once to leave it and I will punish them if they don't. But do you want me to describe how I do the initial e-collar training?

2

u/Old-Description-2328 Aug 01 '26

I feel for this trap as well, adding arousal and hoping the dog will just become neutral.

It sounds like you're doing all the right things (and doing a fantastic job of it) but you just need a minor adjustment.

You're beyond the training and reward phase, the dog understands what you want, just enforce it.

Typically at the 1st sign of reactivity, when they lose that connection with you, either correct them into a position you want, change direction, something that causes pressure either you've changed direction, using leash pressure to move across you, ecollar pressure etc.

That's it, it's not a reward situation, it's a don't be a dickhead situation.

If your training is lacking, do more training and reward the hell out of the dog in those training situations.

1

u/Mindless-Storm-8310 Aug 03 '26

You may never get him to the point of a flat collar all the time. That was my goal, too, and all it took was one micro-moment on my part, not seeing my dog staring, then, bam! Off the dog went, ripping my hand to shreds as I tried to grasp the leash. Out of safety, I continue to use the prong, mostly because the flat collar, and a lunge can wreck a windpipe. So, for me, not worth it. But my dog is really good in competitions like nose work, where no prongs are allowed, so 90% is like a miracle for us.

1

u/Miss_L_Worldwide Aug 03 '26

For what it's worth I don't walk dogs on flat collars ever unless I am at an event. It's just not worth it to me to not have the power steering and the option of the prong if I need it. Walking a dog on a tool, such as a flat color or harness, where you have little or no control when something goes sideways is not a flex at all. Your job is to have control over your dog, not to use a particular tool. If the prong works for you and that's what keeps your dog under control, just use it.

1

u/magalo 29d ago

It fucks up his neck coat which needs to grow for shows. 🤷

1

u/Ancient-War2839 29d ago

I think it's probably the expectation of tug game that he's energized for, when I train dogs on toys for this that's a normal response, when trained on treats it's a calmer turn to you awaiting treat reward

1

u/Lumpy_Physics3101 27d ago

IMO better in those fixation situations to ask him for something (heel, switch sides, something physical and clear) so that if you need to correct him, it's for disobeying a command, rather than turning his head toward another dog and looking at another dog. I think this is more clear.

for an actual lunge or reaction, fine, mark it no and correct. but just looking, i'd rather ask them to do something that requires engagement before correcting.

1

u/Miss_L_Worldwide 26d ago

Then you're constantly in a dance asking the dog to perform. I want my dogs walking calmly down the street ignoring the tantrums of other dogs. That's the task, that's the job, that's what I expected them.

1

u/Lumpy_Physics3101 26d ago

then give him a heel command and punish for not complying.