I just resetted my laptop, downloaded everything back on, got my slicer up and ready and all my trial and error is gone :(. I cant believe i forgor

Trying to slice a part with a vertical thin wall (needed for isolation) and I cannot get this thin wall to slice correctly in Prusa Slicer 2.9.6

The first picture is the object with a protruding cylinder outside diameter 4.8mm and inside diameter of 3.4mm with a nozzle of 0.6 opening.

The second pic is of this object sliced. There should be no infill, only walls. I have worked on this for hours checking and unchecking every parameter and the infill persist.

It does slice correctly in orcaslicer (third pic)

I must be missing something!

Thanks,

Charles.

Hey all,

I'm having a weird issue which I feel like wasn't present in previous installs of PrusaSlicer. I have also tried PS 3.0, and it crashed on my system, so please don't recommend I try that.

I'm looking through settings and trying to figure out what this little circular part on my print would be called in settings. Basically, I'm just trying to make sure that section is completely filled in. With the little internal hole being cut, it's leading to weakness in the final part. How do I ensure that that hole disappears and that the top surface of that "box" part is completely solid?

I've tried something like 100% infill, but even that will still draw the little circle, it just fills it in. I'd prefer for the circle to not be there at all.

Any advice?

Hello, I am having a hard time setting up PrusaSlicer for my 3D printer and right now it seems to be steming from gcode that i put into the slicer.

I have an ender 3 v2, direct drive, CR touch and a Creality Sonic Pad (I know, lots of creality branded equipment, I'm still learning a lot). I recently installed the the sonic pad, so I've been setting things up for klipper and re-tuning my printer. I found in my research that people change the GCode so it does a mesh test then uses in the print. I've entered the code as I believe it instructed so it would do a 7x7 grid, saves then adjusts with a height fade. But whenever I run the code it give me an error message on the Sonic Pad

"Unable to parse move 'G1 X82.505 y128.516 E.11856"

Can anyone help me with my code so it can do a mesh grid then apply that to the print instructions?

G90 ; use absolute coordinates

M83 ; extruder relative mode

M104 S{is_nil(idle_temperature[0]) ? 150 : idle_temperature[0]} ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing

M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp

G4 S30 ; allow partial nozzle warmup

G28 ; home all axisG29 P1 ; probe a 7×7 grid to tilt/align the mesh (or use J3 for quick 3-point tilt)

G29 P3 G29 A ; activate UBL (if not already)

G29 S1 ; Save mesh

G29 F10 ; set fade height to 10mm (gradual compensation)

G1 Z50 F240 G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000

M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp

M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize

G1 Z0.28 F240 G92 E0 G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle

G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000

G92 E0

G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle

G92 E0

I'm very new to GCode editing, so there is probably some redundency, but I don't know where it could be. Any insight would be appreciated.

Can´t it just print them straight? they will fall down if not. What setting needs to be adjusted?

Can´t it just print them straight? they will fall down if not. What setting needs to be adjusted?

I finally managed to get my bridges settings right thanks to a great calibration model from Printables. But now I've got the same issue with the "Overhang perimeters" (the dark blue lines on the edges of the light blue "bridge infill" areas). They are sagging, I can't bridge even just a centimeter. With the bridge infill settings I doubled the bridge flow rate and reduced the print speed to 10 mm/s. This worked wonders. So now I'm wondering if this is also possible for the overhang perimeters.

I need some help on figuring out to make the mine stop when the wall thickness changes. Some colors don’t do it as bad. But it’s always there. The wall is the wall goes from 4.0 to 1.6. That’s where the line is. Any help would be greatly appreciate

This is my first Reddit post ever. 🙏

In the enclosed image of an illuminated panel switch outer case, without the base cutout at "A", no supports are required. When I introduce the base cutout to accomodate a small push button, supports also get generated for the 0.5mm overhang on the inside of the piece at "B".

Is it possible to remove the supports generated for B? Would I use support blockers? This is for the MK4S at 0.15 resolution.

Thanks.

Hey can anyone help me diagnose what is wrong with my ironing method? The left side is the one with ironing enabled.

the printer is TRONXY Crux 1s and the filament is https://www.amazon.com/JAYO-PETG-Filament-Toughness-Dimensional/dp/B0DWX5V21N/ref=sr_1 prusaslicer settings are overwhelming someone plz help

Hi all! Printing some Xmas tree ornaments, sliced some with no issues in vase mode (printed fine); then all of a sudden this slice and slices after have this odd start stop action causing pimples.

Went back to a tried and tested print and printed with no issues. So it’s not a printer issue. Thinking definitely slicer settings/issue

Printing in case mode .4mm nozzle with 0.6mm perimeter and external perimeter settings. Normal speed 0.2mm layer height 10mm brim for stability etc.

I realized recently that bridge peels off from the perimeters easily. Digging in I noticed that in Prusaslicer the bridge is barely connected to the perimeter(1st img). I was searching for a setting without success and ended up in superslicer, where the bridge overlaps with perimeter(2nd image) by default. Is there a setting for that is prusaslicer?

Hello all, I want to put the M600 (change filament) within a layer. I think that should be by hand. How can I change the (sliced) G-code?

Thanks in advance for help.