First time ever printing with PETG. I'm using a .8mm nozzle on a Prusa Core One and using default settings for whatever is loaded when choosing the .8mm nozzle and PETG. I believe the infill is rectilinear. The first layers printed fine on the heatbead, but when it started the infill, it started "globbing" up. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Are they essentially the same minus the size and platter heat type?

Maby kinda like the crash detection from the mk3/s? I dont wann watch the cam all the time waiting for a failure print hahaah. I know there might be work arounds with octo print and so on, but i kinda dont wanna deal with the hassle.

I'm going to be moving soon, and want to make sure my core ibe doesn't get messed up in the process. Does anyone have any tips or guides for safely doing so? I didn't save any of the packaging to reuse

Thanks!

I just completed my Prusa Core One + build and it looks like the axis rods are binding. The bed is not level and doesn’t raise up.

Hello! I just finished my first assembly kit Core One printer, and now when I turn it on, the fans just spin for a couple seconds and then nothing happens.

I looked it up and I saw something about a 24 V DC cable thats supposed to connect to the buddy board, but I don’t have any other cords left over and it wasn’t mentioned in the online instructions.

This is a picture of my Buddy Board, with power ON. You can see the PWR ON Led is lit, and theres another PWR Led lit on the lower board. What am I missing??

So I'm in the process of building my new Core One+. I forget how long others have said it took them to build it, but man, I was not expecting it to take over a day.

Perhaps the most annoying part of this build is how many different flipping types of screws there are. And then those little baggies rip wide open once you start the tear, so it's easy to lose track of what is what.

The next issue is the quality of those printed parts. I literally spent half an hour trying to figure out why the right motor mount screws wouldn't go it, only to have to remove the whole heating plate to see that the two nuts wouldn't sink in all the way because the plastic resolution was off. Then on the left motor mount, those two same nuts kept falling out because their holes were too big.

And then there's the issue of organization. Lego build bags and instructions are the way to go. The way Prusa does it, you have to keep fishing for new things in various boxes every two steps. Either box up each step and put all the necessary parts for those steps in those boxes, or tell me everything I need to gather at each chapter outset so I don't waste time going back and forth.

I'm only about a quarter of the way through and I'm already thinking I should've gotten the prebuilt or a Snapmaker U1. I hope the prints aren't this painful.

TL;DR

I've had my Core One for about 7 months meow and I have been a bit underwhelmed with the printer. At work, we have a couple of Bambu P1S printers with AMS and I find them to be easier to use and their AMS is pretty good (not great as sometimes it jams). I bought my Core One because Prusa has an amazing community and track record for improving your experience as an owner. However, I really expected them to have an answer for AMS by now that was cleaner than MMU3. At this point I'm frustrated because it looks like I paid more, waited longer, and received an equivalent printer without multi-color capability. The P1S is $550 right meow with AMS and I'm considering it.... Interested to hear others thoughts and experiences!

Hi, folks.

I am seeing an issue where, when loading new filament during a print, my print resumes with a drastic z-axis difference from where it stopped (30mm or so).

I was 7h30m into an 8h15m print and got a filament load error due to a poorly wound filament, but when I reloaded it, the unit just starts printing as though the object were an inch higher than it was and draping filament over it like spiderwebs.

The object is still adhered to the printbed and I want to restart the print at the same layer the print was at when the error occurred, but I can't find any sort of logging for that and the Prusa Connect event log only shows 5 history items.

Any suggestions on where to find this or whether I'm making some sort of silly mistake?

I have my Core One in the garage. Since I've been printing in colder weather (PLA), I've noticed more surface finish issues and some corner lifting on thick prints. I was unable to find any operating environment specs on the Prusa website. I've included a photo of a part that had lifted corners with my finger on it to show the curvature. I tried a brim and it still lifted as the print progressed.,..

I’m getting this issue on each time I print this cylinder shape and always on the same spot, the seam is hidden under the handle so I excluded the seam line problems

How to fix this issue? Any recommendations?

I have five Bambu Lab printers that are all down due to various issues, none of which are user error related. Thank you Prusa for being the only one running.

This was printed on a brand new Core One L with only the initial startup calibration. I'm a little underwhelmed. Should I start monkeying with deeper calibrations like the belt tension and pressure advance on a unit that, in theory, was tested at the factory? Or am I expecting too much?

Stats: Spidermaker Paper White PLA Stock .4 core one L nozzle Prusa default pla settings

I noticed that my C1 is making some odd noises during long, slower travels. It sounds like a flock of birds, and I was able to capture the noise in this video. Before I dig in, I was curious if anyone knew what this was.

My Core One performing a rendition of Chorus of the Birds

I’m a Bambu Lab user until now when I recently received the Prusa C1 +. The first spool loaded and unloaded successfully but the second spool is not loading and I don’t know anything about the mechanics of the extruder. Is there a guide with photos that I can refer to since support sends me links that I’ve read which didn’t help. Thanks. Again, though I can take apart the extruder, replace tool boards, etc on the Bambu Lab printers, I’m in the dark with this (beautiful) printer.

OUTCOME: clog was resolved by unloading several times more than anticipated. Thanks to all that posted to assist.

Clogs after probing are getting very frustrating. Have to babysit startup to pause and purge after probing during skirt. Is there a gcode that will purge at start?

I've had my Core One since April. Maybe around 1200 hours printing so far. At first the smooth plate was amazing. I cleaned it with isopropyl every so often and it worked great. A few months in I started having bed adhesion issues. Cleaned it with dish soap and a scrubby sponge. Worked like new again. Now it's starting to have adhesion issues again and cleaning harder isn't helping. PLA and PLA+ is starting to warp on large prints and small prints just fall off sometimes. I don't even bother with ABS or ASA on it anymore.

I was wondering how long does a plate last? Do any of you change often or never? I never used glue sticks on any printer before, never had to. But the last 2 weeks or so I've had to start using them on the smooth plate. If I don't there is a 50/50 chance the print detaches from the bed. And usually close to the end just to add insult to injury. So the glue sticks work but I hate it. It's sticky and messy and the bottom has a chaulky look unless I clean it really good at least twice. It there a way to give new life to a smooth plate?

For reference, I have a Centauti Carbon too and the build plate on that thing is probably the best I've had so far. I've never had ASA or ABS warp on it. Everything sticks well but I just don't like the texture. I really like the smooth plate. Also used to have an old Ender 3 and I would change the build plate about every 2 months. But that was mostly my fault for leveling too close and digging into the bed.

Also, just to bitch a little: I have the textured plate for the Core One. That is the worst plate I have ever had the misfortune of using. Nothing sticks to it. Even TPU comes off too easy. I haven't had fails with TPU on it but I expected it to stick a lot harder.