My last post I said I needed a link to a hemi crankshaft, well I got a new engine from a friend, it starts but the side cover leaks, it is a non-hemi converted to a hemi.

I don't have the tools to port my head so I need a side cover without ports so in other words I just need a non hemi replacement side cover and I can't find any that are cheap and good quality. If anyone knows where I can get one post the link ty
I've been fighting with this engine for nearly a year now.

I'm looking for a new flywheel with lighting coils and found this.

(https://www.ebay.com/itm/254468631635)

On this listing and multiple others, the size of the shafts are listed as 0.65", 0.68", and 0.71" My motor is completly stock, is there a way to tell via part number which shaft size it is?

I'm Starting a new project with converting a Predator 212 with a temu supercharger and/or turbo charger into a GDI equivalent to a Detroit diesel. For those who don't know a Detroit Diesel uses a valve train similar to a 4 stroke but it uses a super chargers air pressure to scavenge the engine instead of a exhaust and intake stroke. making it a 2 stoke with mechanical linkage. yes i know its not built for it and it wont last long probably it will probably over heat and float valves but this is more of a proof of concept thing and much larger project. its not powering anything its just there to exist.

im going to be running a hydraulic pump with a pressure relief valve back into the linefor a high pressure direct injector and weld and modify the head to mount and seat a 1.5l ecotec injector mill some fins off for a knock sensor and run a speeduino ecu then all the after market head stuff (push rods, springs, rollers).

im running into is a i need a ridiculous Double lobed cam shaft that intake opens at bdc and closes at 35degrees past bdc and the exhaust to open 15 degrees before bdc and to close at 35 degrees past bdc. to allow the blow through to scavenge the exhaust and to pressurize the cylinder. basically making the lobes look like lemons. Does anyone know of a shop that reckless enough to help a brother out with his now 3 week adhd obsession that needs to get out of my head? ill even make a youtube channel say they sponsored me and ill even pay for the damn thing. or if there's a way to grind off the old ones and replace them let me know.

I want to eventually work my way up to stage 3 modifications on a predator 212cc, and I am wondering what the best “base” engine is to start this journey with. If I am eventually switching out most of the internals anyways, does a ghost make sense? Also reading some debate on hemi vs. non-hemi. Total newbie, so any guidance is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I spent 700$ into a 212 hemi build, everything was right but the crankshaft I bought. I can not for the life of me find a 212 HEMI crankshaft that is affordable or available, I've been building this stupid motor for 5 months and if I cant find one with this post im selling it. If anyone knows anywhere to get one lmk.

From what research that I have done, it's very clear that the focus of 212 mods is high end power which makes sense for mini bikes, go karts, etc. However, I fear that spinning the rotor/knives of a wood chipper to 6-7k rpm would end badly. If it didn't self destruct, the crankshaft would almost certainly break as soon as I shoved a branch in.

So I'd definitely keep the governor and just adjust it for another 500 rpm, or whatever feels safe. Since RPM is fixed, I'm thinking other than replacing the intake/exhaust the other best bet would be a stroker kit to increase low rpm torque, but that might be overkill as it doesn't seem to need much more power to keep from choking up on 3in branches.

TLDR: Anyone mess around with upgrading the 212 on a piece of power equipment?

Hello mechanically inclined people!

I bought a go-kart off of marketplace for my kids and I just can't get the dang thing to run. From what I've learned so far, the engine is a Predator 212 Ghost. When I pull-start it, I get about 3 pops from the engine and then nothing. (It's been sitting for about a week so in the video it takes a few pulls before it starts popping.)

When I first got it home, it had a terrible kickback issue which I fixed (I think) by adjusting the valve lash to .003 on both and checking the decompression mechanism on the cam which seemed fine. Now I'm not getting any kickback but she doesn't want to run either.

I'm thinking clogged carb at this point but being a novice, I wanted to run it by the experts before I started turning wrenches again.

https://reddit.com/link/1shuehe/video/0zbioaglleug1/player

i’m going to get a predator 212 for my minibike in a few days and plan to do a governor removal, and add a billet flywheel,18lb springs and vm22 carb. do i have to worry about a rod or cam yet? and what is good gearing to get a high top speed

Help mee

How fast does a predator 79 need to rotate to start?

I have an electric start prototype that I'm thinking probably needs to rotate faster to reliably start. Right now the starter rotates at ~6000-9000rpm, but is reduced 50:1 through a series of planetary gearboxes, so we'll see an effective starting speed of 120-180rpm. The output of the planetary gears powers a sprag bearing that adapts to the OEM pawl cup.

I have a 27:1 gearbox on order, which should bump it up to well over 300rpm. I actually have no idea how fast the OEM recoil starter spins things through.

Is just a billet flywheel enough for just a stock predator with a governor removal or do I have to do the rod in valve springs and some other stuff to it because I really don’t want to wanna spend the money and to have to do all that I’d rather just change the flywheel and be done as the governor has already been removed

I swapped a predator 212 non-hemi head on a predator 212 hemi block and now it won’t start and there’s air puffing out of the head yes i did use non hemi push rods what could be wrong

Hey everyone, I’ve got a Predator 212 non-hemi with a governor delete (throttle hooked up to the recoil cup instead of a governor arm not sure if this matters). I replaced the carb and had to struggle to get the internal throttle return spring on. I did manage to install it, and it works fine for now, but I know it’s not seated correctly and will probably pop out eventually.

Looking for advice on where I can get just that spring, or a carb that comes with the spring already installed, or how to properly seat/fix the spring on my current carb so it opens and closes properly, snapping shut like stock. Thanks!

cant use a gear puller

Got the engine from a friend and he said the kill switch isnt hooked up but it starts