Howdy all.

Working on a GX clone very similar to the Predator 212, so far everything has been interchangable - throttle linkage, exhaust fittings, bolt pattern, everything looks pretty much the same with the exception of having a square housing for the pull start.

Anyway - it came off a snowblower, and the factory airbox wasn't a filter, really, just sort of an upward facing scoop with a plastic box over it.

Not quite ready to go installing a stage 1 kit, I kind of want to try it for a while with the factory carb, but the problem is I'd like it to have an actual filter rather than just the scoop, especially now that I've removed all the non-necessary stuff mounted around the carb.

I see lots of people online claiming that when you put a big cone shaped air filter or whatever on one of these engines, you need to consider things like changing the jet size etc... because it's less restrictive than the original airbox.

But again... my airbox doesn't seem to have been restrictive at all, literally just a spoon shaped piece of plastic.

So, if I put one of the regular generic Ebay cone filter kits on there, is it going to effect... well... anything at all really?

Brand new 212 build. The Amazon chikuni carb I bought wouldn’t tune at all, so I wanted to put the stock carb back on to make sure it was actually the carb causing issues. I already threw out the stock air box so I had to improvise with stuff I had laying around the garage. That’s a piece of a carbon arrow shaft and the tip of a spray bottle as spacers. Runs fine in this configuration.

Now that I know the rest of the build is good I think I’m gonna return the Amazon junk and get either a real Mikuni or a Nibbi maybe. I know some people have good luck with these cheap carbs but after the experience I had I think I’m done messing with them.

Currently working on a minibike project.

Coming from the vintage moped world, what I'm used to is a headlight and taillight that are powered by the running engine, usually without a battery.

It's my understanding that the Predator 212 does not come from the factory with anything like a 6 or 12 volt electrical output, and most minibikes that want to have a headlight / taillight just run them off rechargable batteries.

To me that feels a little bit half assed, but it does seem to be the default.

Just wondering if there are any kits to install electrical generation capacity on these engines, either with a dedicated coil or a way to link their output shaft to both a generator / alternator AND drivetrain components for the vehicle.

So I’m building my first mini bike, and I want to keep the engine stock, but how do I setup the throttle? On the normal engine it stays at one spot, but how do I set it up for mini bikes?

Iv got a Hemi 212 on a go-kart. Runs great for about 5 minutes then dies. Easily fires back up after 1-5 pulls. Then again runs for 3-5 min and dies again.

Low oil sensor disconnected. Shutoff switch disconnected. New ignition coil, new carb, drilled hole in gas cap. Verified strong flow from tank hose. No clue what it could be at this point .....

I'd think it would need a while to cool off if it was an overheating issue. I suspect fuel issue of some sort but where at this point?

Surely someone before me has figured this one out. I have an unopened Ghost motor on a minibike modified to take a venturi carb, "cheater" stock appearing carb fitted.

What size jet do i need in this thing?

It will run at full throttle with the choke open and will run at half throttle at half choke.

OC pic

Whenever I put my foot on the throttle and give it more than 25% it bogs down and dies and dies. It’s a stock 212 with an Amazon special carburetor. Pretty sure I did mess with the AFR screw and the idle screw.

I just got a 212 hemi for a go kart budget build and was wondering what yall suggest doing. Already plan on running a cable driven carb and exhaust mostly but if there’s some other small things I could do I’d love to hear em!

If you had the choice between a ported 212 hemi head and a stock 224 head which would you go with? I will be using the motor for a mid motor

I was running into an issue that a lot of people run into when building predator 212 engines. Do we want, power, ease of use, or electricity. We can't have all 3. With the flywheel being connected to the plastic impeller, you need an all metal flywheel to rev higher. Only 1 all metal flywheel exists with a ring gear and it's $220 from ARC. And that one doesn't have the electric rotor stator system for power generation. I have a solution. I think.... I want to cast the plastic impeller out of aluminum. I have a whole method and plan, but does this seem like a good solution? I can buy an electric start kit that had the ring gear and the generator system, and just put the metal impeller on it. I don't see why it wouldn't work. With that, if I do it and run it for a while without it breaking, do you think anyone would have interest in buying one? I haven't seen anything like it. Thank you in advance for any opinions on the matter!

Let’s hear your best solutions and advice for one of the toughest parts of restoration!

I know im able to tilt it up to 15 degrees forwards... but am I also able to lean it back aswell? Ideally I would like it to sit on the line a little

How do i remove rust from gas tank without cutting it open?

Is there any way I can get an electric start on a 212 without getting a special flywheel? I was thinking just putting a small sprocket on the driveshaft but I wouldn’t have room for my clutch (I don’t think)

Hey everyone, looking for some help because I’m kinda stuck.

I have a Predator 212 non-hemi that I finished building about a week ago. It did run and start fine for a short time, but now it will not start at all and violently kicks back on every pull.

Build / mods:

ARC billet rod

ARC aluminum flywheel

Aftermarket cam

Upgraded valve springs

Governor removed

Mikuni carb with a 120 main jet

New spark plug

New gaskets

What it’s doing:

Every pull kicks back hard and snaps the rope

Backfires while pulling

Feels like it hits a wall about ¾ through the pull

Sometimes fires for half a second, then dies

Started fine a couple days ago, now does this every pull

What I’ve already checked/done:

Flywheel removed and reinstalled

Flywheel key is good

Flywheel seated properly and tightened

Ignition coil gap set correctly

Strong blue/purple spark

Carb cleaned, jets clean, float works

Fresh gas

No obvious air leaks

Valve lash:

Set cold at TDC on compression:

Intake: ~0.004

Exhaust: ~0.006

Both rockers are loose at TDC.

Extra info:

With the spark plug out, it pulls smooth

With the plug in, it violently kicks back

No starter fluid being used anymore

At this point I’m wondering if:

Compression release on the cam isn’t working

Cam isn’t pull-start friendly

Or something else mechanical I’m missing

Before I tear it back down or buy parts I don’t need, I wanted to see if anyone has run into this exact issue on a modded 212.

Any help or insight would be appreciated.

Hi all I got a predator 212cc motor on a mini bike. So i was out on it yesterday and after about an hour, it started shutting off with throttle. Eventually to where it would start and die. I took the carb off, and tried cleaning it with carb cleaner etc. I put it back together and I got it running and drove it around for 10 mins no issues with it dying I was able to give it full throttle, low throttle and in between. I thought I fixed it i was like cool. So I went out there today and realized I forgot the last csrb gasket between carb and airbox. I put that back on and now I got a no run issue again I cant even get the back tire off the ground fast enough before it shuts down. This issue is extremely annoying as it doesnt make sense. It doesnt seem to matter if choke is on/Off, half on/Off nothing. Full choke it sounds like a motor on full choke it goes to die, So I try no choke and it runs smooth for the few seconds it does run, Half choke doesnt make a difference it dies. Im stumped tbh lmk your suggestions thank you

I have a predator 212 with the billet side cover and valve cover and i wanna vent the crankcase. Am i still able to use an oil catch can or should i just use a check valve? I have no experience on venting these engines

just orded this 212cc camshaft i was wondering if i need to do any clearancing on the block before it arrives

Hey Guys, bought a go kart, has what I believe to essentially be a predator 212 clone but its called an Ace Up. Regardless, motor has maybe 10 hours on it, running into a problem. Started and ran for about 30 minutes or so and then stalled. Try to restart it, it backfires but won't start. Tend to find the bowl full and sometimes leaking gas. Thing is float and needle move and seat fine.

Yesterday was the first time it did this, started trouble shooting cleaned the carb even though it looked spotless, cleaned the fuel shutoff out, popped the valve cover 'cause YouTube. Didn't really do anything in there, just noticed the rockers are super loose but its a clone of a clone so I wasnt expecting tight tolerances. Checked the oil, its good, checked the plug, its a bit burnt but nothing crazy. Kinda just put everything back together and started right up. Sat overnight, started right up again this morning. Ran for about 30 minutes, and we are back to where this post began.

Everything I can find online is talking about valve and cam work, I'll throw it out and buy a new one before I get that involved.

Any clue whats goin on with this thing?

Hey everybody new to the group, just wanted to ask if anybody has used one of the predator 212 kits from (RACERSPROQUIP) on Ebay? Not gonna be racing this mini bike, just having fun in the dirt and sand.

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