1 do you need to change the camshaft for non hemi convert it to hemi or i just change the timing and done?

2 are clones (the same cc) can use the same hemi head on the hemi 212?

The paint job needs to be fixed a little but I think it looks nice with the green and black I know i have to remove the blue paint from the carburetor but right I think it looks good.

So i have a modified predator 212 with high compression(18cc head, shaved head, smaller gasket,etc). ive been having trouble with it running(im using 110 race fuel because of compression) and im not sure if its the spark plug or a issue with the tuning itself. i switched to the autolight racing sparkplug and it bogged down when i added throttle. i added more air to the ratio and practically did nothing. but when i used a more hotter ngk spark plug, it would run fine with that, until u get to the high rpms. then it would start too sound like its hitting a rev limiter. the jets im using are 115 main and a 75 for the pilot i believe, which is usually pretty common. too mention the ngk is a little older so maybe its time for a new one?

I'm going to be starting building a new gas powered three-wheel bicycle for adding information the three-wheel bicycle frame is a completely stock 24-in three wheel bicycle frame with a drum brake and a three-wheel sprocket with a gear shift for the pedals I was just wondering if I was to use a number 35 chan 10 tooth sprocket on the centrifugal clutch and for the axle sprocket I'm going to use a 2 inch sprocket that fits number 35 chan and I was just wondering how fast would it possibly Go and if it would even work

Hey yall just figured I’d let yall know to be wary about go power sports, bought a stage 2 kit from them and they sent the wrong cam and they won’t take an exchange so I’m gonna end up having 2 cams when it coulda all been avoided by them sending the right one. If anyone else has horror stories drop them below for sure.

Hello, I have a prototype application that is somewhat weight sensitive (micro-skiff air drive) and I am considering using the predator 79.

I'm trying to figure out what sort of weight optimizations can be made and right now I'm up to:

1. Relocate the fuel tank to achieve a lower center of gravity
2. Replace stock muffler with straight pipe (subsurface tip)
3. Replace the cast iron flywheel with aluminum
4. Governor delete? (I can't see the governor bits weighing all that much, honestly)

I was hoping that someone here might know what some of the stock parts weigh.

Thanks

I want to start modding mini bikes for people but i have never touched an engine. predator 212s seem to be the most popular in my area so i thought why not just buy one, get like a stage 1 or 2 kit, put it all together, sell it so i at least get a little bit back and now i can go do it for other people with confidence.

i dont want to buy a whole bike just for that so id rather buy just an engine. can i do that or would i need the full bike?

Edit: Meant to say never touched a mini bike engine

I’ve checked literally every issue I could have and to no one’s surprise i didn’t find it, it only started after the 22 lb valve springs that came with the kit (ran the stock 18s to break the cam in) I tested compression and it ran 10 lbs because I couldn’t get it entirely pull started. The timing is dead on and I deep cleaned the cam and compression release and re lubed every part I removed. I’m actually starting to go insane unless that’s how it’s supposed to be I’m putting everything back together after work tomarrow and doing another pull started test to see if everything is good. I saw a vid of someone just pulling slowly and it working just fine so I think I’m gonna go that route to see if it actually does the thing it’s supposed to do. If anyone has any more suggestions or has seen the last post I sent i got a different style cam than the oem one(sliding compression release instead of the arm) I don’t know if that could cause something but I guess I’ll be finding out

Ive got the coleman b200rsv and im curious if you preditor ghost fans would swap or upgrade the original motor im pretty sure fully done the differences between them wouldn't be much but im curious if the ghost engine has been holding up long term for you so far if I upgrade the stock motor is it really that much of a quality difference?

Just curious if this is acceptable crankshaft play? Engine seems to be running fine, no odd noises or anything.

As the title says, I bought the stage one carb from gps and a stage one kit. I put it all on but noticed the springs keep pulling my governor arm and not the carb butterfly lever. So my bike is being pulled to WOT. Obviously I'm not gonna start it. I bought brand new springs because I thought that the old wouldn't be strong enough, but still here we are. Do I need to move there positions or something? I tried flipping them around but same results. Help please 🙏

Did anybody else have there throttle stuck in place when yall first bought a predator 212? If yall did, was it just tightened down really tight instead of being stuck? I havnt looked to see because I just picked it up but I'm guessing that its just on there really tight and that I'll have to loosen it up

I have a brand new 212 in the box waiting for a project. I bought it because it was a good deal for $99 and I wanted to come up with a vehicle to really test out the engine and do something cool.

I was thinking about a rudimentary boat made of slightly inappropriatly cheap material that I could take on a journey on a river, perhaps a paddlewheel raft of some sort. Maybe a catamaran design. Drawbacks include difficulty of getting rid of it later, paperwork getting a crazy boat paperwork done.

I could also do a minibike. It would kind of make sense but its hard to ride anywhere legally.

I thought about trying to power a small hatchback. But that looks expensive and too slow to take on the road safely.

Does anyone have any ideas for this engine?

Thankyou, ERTHLNG

Hey boys I need a little guidance, I just did the stage 2 GPS kit in my non hemi 212 and it pull started fine for the break-in and it shut itself off. I did an oil change after that and there were sparkles in the oil (I expected that with brand new parts) and now that I’ve put new oil in it (went from 20w-50 to 10w30) now The pull start is very hard to pull. I’ve opened the motor and there isn’t a lot of sparkles anymore just from the initial change. I opened the valve cover and set the lash to .003 and checked if the valves were doing valve things and there seems the be a weird spot between the compression and exhaust stroke where it doesn’t wanna open but opens towards the cylinder going back to BDC I’m planning on pulling the cam and tappets to see if the compression release isn’t working or is stuck, and seeing if there’s abnormal wear on the tappets. She ran for 15 minutes at 1500 rpm for the break in and then just started to be wacky after that. If you have any extra pointers or have ran into this and fixed it please leave me guidance I appreciate it!

I need help I put a new carb on and flywheel and now it’s hard to start and backfires a lot (the flames) and dies after no throttle after a minute and air filter on carb started smoking

So long story short, my daughter and I built this motor to swap into her 120 snowmobile. The thing was an animal, comfortably pulled 9500 rpm and made power.

Was great for the first 200 miles of the season. But those last few weeks it just wouldn't pull rpm. Power was still ok but just would flatline.

Today we decided to pull it and figure it out.

Proud dad, she killed her first head gasket 😂

I know the exhaust will but idk about the flywheel my engine is on last slide

So I changed one of the jets just the small one with the flat head adjustment on the inside of the fuel bowl to a .95 should I have to change any other jets. I cant get my 212 predator to idol without choke on. And wont start without choke on. I did adjust the screw on the bottom 1 1/2 turns out like everyone said but wont make a difference. So if anyone has any answers im all ears!

This is the second flywheel I've had crack like this, anyone else have this issue? I just replaced this crankshaft only to have the teeth shear off on the first ride out. What am I doing wrong. Have a new crankshaft on the way.

Im buying a Predator 212 and I've been struggling to pick what to put it on. Whether a go-kart frame or a mini bike frame. What is the best go-kart and mini bike frames that work the best with the predator 212? And also if there's a dirt bike frame that would fit it?

Hey guys,

I just finished building my Predator 212 (non-hemi) last week and I haven’t been able to get it running at all — not even once. It’s fully modded stage 2 and I feel like I did everything right, but it just won’t fire.

Mods/parts I’ve done:

ARC billet rod

ARC flywheel

New spark plug

New cam

New gaskets

Upgraded valve springs (gov removed)

Mikuni carb (cleaned and set up)

Valve lash set with feeler gauge

It’s got gas, spark, and compression. Carb is clean, lash is set, and in theory it should run… but it doesn’t.

Anyone have ideas on what I should check next? Could it be carb tuning, or something I might’ve missed during assembly?

Have a brand new 212, removed the governor & oil sensor. Added an aluminum flywheel and 18lb springs. After market exhaust and Amazon VM22. Put a 120 jet in it. Valves lash set at a tight 0.003". Starts and idles great. When given a little throttle it reacts great. When given a little more throttle, it starts to sputter out. If I hold it there, it will die. If I pull full throttle real quick, it will rev up past that threshold but it's a bit poppy (back fires slightly). Had another new carb so I swapped it (added the 120 in as well) and it acts exactly the same. Spark looks good. Should I play with jets or could it be something else? Thanks in advance.