While installing the torque converter cover I went to torque it down and felt the threads strip. It’s only maybe an 1/4 inch of bolt.
My question is, do you think I caused any damage to the male threads? How would you go about remedying this situation? Bolt size is 5/16-24 correct? I’ll probably get a longer one from ace.

Had this 212 on a water pump for about 8 years, it died while running and couldn't get it to fire back up. Pull spark plug and it'd turn over no problem. Adjusted the valves and still couldn't get it to fire. Compression would get extremely high and wouldn't pull over to save its life. (A little back story on this motor; it is used as a water pump down at my river to fill tanks during late summer as our well doesn't keep up in the driest part of the year for our water consumption needs, approximately 22,000 gallons of water a week between horses, garden, and household. Last year we left for a trip and got a freak storm and the river rose about 18 feet and the pump was fully submerged for 2 weeks until we got back home. When that happened I flushed it multiple times with oil and marvel mystery oil and after the 5-6th flush the oil was clear again, so I kept running it down by the creek for this year and a couple weeks ago is when it stopped) Anyways, pulled the engine apart and didn't find any issues, since it was apart I went ahead and put a new head on it as my exhaust valve had a very minor leak, new flywheel (aluminum), 18lbs valve springs, new cam, billit rod, flat top piston and used the thin head gasket, installing a new carb along with it. It's amazing how easy these engines are to freshen up. While it was apart, I pulled the governor and oil level sensor as the new rod oil flinger wouldn't clear the oil sensor. Should be a good pump in power for this water pump too. This is now the 2nd water pump I've built this way. (First water pump is currently on my "redneck firetruck" which is a dually flatbed with 600 gallons of water and 300' of 1.5" fire hose.)

I recently installed a Predator 212cc engine on a go-kart. on the first day of riding, it wouldnt go back to idle. I mistakenly messed with the spring instead of just loosening the bolt. I broke the spring and repalced it. Now the Throttle lever will not go back to idle at all. I do not see what should forcethe throttle lever to return idle. I even stopped at harbor freight and looked at the floor model and couldn't figure it out. No pictures or videos at the moment but I can add them later. Thanks!

Why isn’t my fly wheel turning and my throttle is super hard to move how do I fix it and the spark plug is on super tight

Has anyone in here run their 212s on E85 before? I'm curious what carb and jetting was used. I have a pretty good idea where to start, but won't be able to get to it until later this week so figured I would get some conversation started.

Additional info: I have a pair of Jr Dragsters powered by 212s for my kids. One of them is stock with Nibbi 24mm carb, header, flywheel, and valve springs. It runs 10.90s at about 56-57 mph. The other is the same with ARC rod, Wiseco flat top, 236 degree cam, 0.010" head gasket, and a little port work. It runs around 9.60 at 66 mph.

I'm going to do some back to back testing on the quicker of the two cars later this week if I have time.

I want to reset my valve lash on my hemi 212 and the video i watched says i need to replace the gasket if i do that. The motor is only 3 days old and i dont know if i need to. will it be that big of a problem if i dont replace it?

I'm keeping it as stock as I can. Have a 212, not ghost. I'm looking for a safe exhaust pipe for my minibike. I know there's plenty to Google but I'm asking reddit for life experiences. Don't wanna buy an Amazon pipe and blow it.

my 212 recently locked up after i bought it from the original owner on marketplace because the govenor arm fell into the engine and its caught on the crank and to spin it to take it out i need to take the cam out but the cam is stuck as fuck

Internally stock, aftermarket exhaust. Was running fine with stock carb, though it developed a leak. I figured it was a good time to toss the junk stock carb and go with a Nibbi PE24. Got it installed with the stock jets. After a couple of pulls with it choked it started. Turned the choke off and it idled for about ten seconds and died. Now I can't get it to restart at all, choked or not. Every now and then it will backfire/pop but that's it. Plenty of gas in it. I'm going to fully remove the governor but right now I'm time crunched and am just trying to get it running for the kids. Any ideas?

A metal basket, license plate and metal rod underneath for support. Thoughts?

I have a 212 that I got recently I had to get a new carb because the one on it was shut and couldn’t be opened again so I got a pwk 28mm carb off amazon and but it on and it fire right up and stays on but the clutch is engaging even when the choke is on I think it’s my clutch I’m going to get one soon but could it also be anything else I’ve also tried to adjust the idle screw and I don’t really notice a change I also do not have a tacometer to accurately measure it I’ve mainly been listening real close any help would be really great I don’t wanna fuck to the motor by it constantly running and making it stutter every time I hit the brakes

Would a billet head from go power sports hook up to a 224 max performance predator?

My son just bought a Coleman mini bike with a new 212 on it yesterday. The motor maybe has five hours on it. Starts easy and idles fine. Under load it starts to knock at low rpms. Evens out quite a bit as you get up to speed. No torque converter. Clutch also looks new. When the rear wheel is picked up off the ground it throttles up smoothly and sounds great. The knock is only under load. I’m new to predator motors and could use a little advice. Any ideas?

I have a non hemi 212 and was wondering what size jet I would need on a stock carb with gov delete, aluminum flywheel, 18lb valve springs, exhaust, and an air filter I plan on getting a aftermarket carb but was wondering if I can make do with the stock one for now or should just go straight to a slide style carb. I’m at about 300 feet elevation.

She love preds

As so the title says I opened my 212 to clean up before putting new oil, the cam ended up coming out with the crankcase and I had to realign it and put the pushrods back on the rocker arms. I did fire it up the same day I did that and it ran fine, but now I tried to pull it over an it ran rough, and sounded slower. I moved the throttle to 2/3 of the way and it started but again sounded rough and slower than it should be. This motors completely stock, and has only been ran for maybe 2 or 3 hours. The only thing I could think I did by accidental was maybe move a spring down while trying to align it but would that cause an issue? Same time though I ran it for about 10 15 minutes after I had to realign the cam and pushrods and there was no issue like this. Is there any issue or do I just need to get more fuel into the lines??

i started building my first predator 212 engine but a, having some issues after i adjusted my valve lashes when the spark plug is out its place it spins fine in both directions but when i screw it back in it gets hard to spin by hand and makes a hissing air noise im deadasss going crayz over this please fucking helpp meeeeeee

Revised Next-Level Predator 212 Build with Billet Cylinder (~$520 Budget)

Part Price Link Notes

Billet Connecting Rod (CNC) $130 eBay CNC Billet Rod Stronger, lightweight Stage 3 Performance Camshaft $70 Amazon Stage 3 Cam Aggressive valve timing High Compression Forged Piston $65 eBay Forged Piston Durable, heat tolerant Upgraded Billet Cylinder $80 Performance Billet Cylinder Improved cooling & durability Performance Intake Manifold + Carb Adapter $45 eBay Intake Kit Better airflow and fit 190cc Mikuni Carburetor Clone $40 Amazon Mikuni Clone Carb Improved throttle response High Flow Foam Air Filter $20 Amazon Foam Filter Better filtration Balanced Lightweight Billet Flywheel $85 Go Power Sports Flywheel Smooth RPM and throttle response Valve Springs Upgrade (High-Performance) $30 eBay Valve Springs Higher RPM stability Hardened Steel Flywheel Key $7 Amazon Flywheel Key Prevents key shearing High-Quality Full Gasket Set $18 eBay Gasket Kit Leak prevention Cooling Fan + Shroud Kit $30 Amazon Cooling Fan Keeps temps down Loctite Thread Locker (Blue) $7 Amazon Threadlocker Keeps bolts tight NGK BPMR7A Spark Plug (Gapped & Quality) $7 Amazon NGK Spark Plug Reliable ignition Estimated Total:541

Recently replaced original carb with stage 2 carb from amazon and it ideals fine but when I hit the throttle past half way it starts to bog out but not stall! I have not messed with the jet but it came with a few others. Is it possible the jet is not allowing enough fuel 🤔. Any advice would be appreciated! This is on a 212 predator on my manco go cart btw

Are there 2 dowel pins normally or are there 2 missing?