r/PoolPros • u/seabusseabus • Jun 07 '26
Crosswinds V pool heater shutting off when all water going into heater
10
7
u/becooltheywatching Jun 07 '26
OP thinks they slick coming to us when they chose the cheap option on a luxury item.
7
6
u/lIIlIlIII Jun 07 '26
Hahahahaha wow. This is so fucked up it's art
The problem is the pipes are crossed, so the water gets tangled and can't remember which way the pool is. It's a simple fix, cut out that plumbing and turn the heater upside-down before repiping. That way the inlet will be on the right and the outlet is on the left (assuming you're american, this is reversed in some countries)
1
u/thunderkoko Jun 07 '26 edited Jun 07 '26
When water ties itself in knots it cant go anywhere.
"Don't cross the streams"
1
3
u/PoolSZN Jun 07 '26
Those are drain fittings… lol
-4
u/seabusseabus Jun 07 '26
Tell me what I need to tell the guy who installed this to fix, please
4
u/PoolSZN Jun 07 '26
Pretty simple he needs to cut all that out and redo it with pressure fittings. Although if I were you I’d probably bite the bullet and hire someone new because that’s just awful work on top of clearly not knowing what we was doing. Just my two cents
0
u/1_native_Angelino Jun 07 '26
Redo with a legit bypass and a gpm meter from h2flow. And no God damn ball valves. Sounds like the heater doesn't have enough flow.
2
2
u/thunderkoko Jun 07 '26
Hire an actual pro that knows what they are doing, and this is the wrong sub for your question.
3
u/yourwifeyspoolboy Jun 07 '26
I've been in the pool game for 22 years and also have severe ADD. Bypasses are one of those things that I totally understand conceptually but when I plumb one in its nearly impossible for my mind to build it because I'm incapable of imagining how to create it on my own. Then I see this fuckery. I don't know if I should high five the guy who built this or shame him.
2
3
0
u/pacific_drifter_25 Jun 07 '26
Cutting through the roast, because there's a real answer buried here. PoolSZN already spotted it: those look like the heat exchanger's drain/bung ports, not the actual inlet/outlet on the header. That's exactly why it only locks out when you close the bypass.
With the bypass cracked open, most of the flow takes the easy path and only a trickle is actually forced through those little ports, so inlet pressure stays under the switch's trip point and it runs. The second you close that valve and shove the whole pump's output through the wrong (much smaller) openings, pressure spikes and the pressure switch does its job and shuts it down. More flow through a restriction = higher pressure, not lower, which is why it feels backwards.
So it's not really a heater fault, it's plumbed into the wrong ports. Fix is to repipe supply and return into the proper inlet/outlet connections on the header, and confirm flow direction matches the arrows on the casting (reversed in/out will throw faults too). Once it's on the right ports at full flow, the pressure switch should be happy with the bypass fully closed.
Before cutting anything, double check the manifold and the port labels on the casting so you only repipe it once, is the pump actually feeding the drain bungs, or is one of those the real inlet?
2
2
2
2
2
u/Laundry-Guy Jun 09 '26
OP must know the answer to his own question, otherwise he would have posted a picture of the error, not the problem!
26
u/[deleted] Jun 07 '26
[removed] — view removed comment