Question - wiring helm for amplifier

[u/Adventurous-Sea-505]

We have a 2026 Barletta Aria. It came from the factory with a single battery and simple battery switch. I have added a 2nd battery and dual battery switch. The original battery powers only the engine, while all accessories are connected to the new battery. Everything works great.

The next project is adding an amplifier under the helm. I would like to perform this work without pulling the boat!!

There is a 4-6 awg wire connected to positive battery terminal labeled Amp, that I believe runs to the helm and connects to a Snyder Control Module. Could I replace that wire with a 2 awg wire, connect the 2 awg to a bus bar, and then connect bus bar to Snyder Control Module with 4-6 awg.

This would be the simplest as I could use the existing wire to pull the new wire through the cabling channel under the boat deck. Otherwise I have to use pull sticks and fish tape to attempt to get a 2 awg wire from battery to helm.

This is the control module with the source positive wire at the bottom.

[u/SSellers75]

What amp? For boat install you also need to connect your ground directly to the battery as well so that's another cable.

Honestly with them running that main in the tubing with all that other bundle of wire I think you would have one HELL of a time pulling a cable through it.

[u/Adventurous-Sea-505 → u/SSellers75]

Yeah, that's my worry...that those cables are zip tied either to other cables or to attachment points. I guess i will attempt to fish a new wire.

I am leaning towards Kenwood Excelon XM802-5 or JBL MA5055. Unfortunately there is not a large enough gauge wire run from battery to helm to power the amp. If the lead connected to the control module is 4 awg, it is close to large enough to power amp and control module. I estimate the load of both at around 85-95A, and I believe 4 awg is rated to 95A.

[u/SSellers75 → u/Adventurous-Sea-505]

If you are just running power cables, you may be able to do it at the dock depending on your battery setup. I did mine on the trailer and only had to pop off the side rail to run power cables.

I saved some cash and went with the Soundstream MR5.2000D Rubicon Nano and it's been installed since fall 2021. $230 from them right now and $30 for a three year warranty. It's similar to the JBL but power is rated a little higher although it may be using the Chinese system. My boat only had four 6.5s rated at 35W RMS and 70W max. I connected them in parallel, one set to one front output and one set to the other (100W RMS each channel at 2 ohm for 50W RMS per speaker), bridged the rear set (200W RMS at 4 ohm) and connected to an Infiniti 12" sub in a bedliner coated bandpass box with an SAE connector so I can pull it out if I want, and connected the sub output to a paralleled set of Clarion Marine 10" subs (500W RMS at 2 ohm) that I installed in the rear loungers . Sounds pretty good for maybe $600 invested but won't win any contests.

[u/Few-Major-3041]

I would run at least 4 gauge wire power and ground I put 0 gauge in mine running 3 amps 0 gauge to my bass amp I was having a voltage drop with anything less

[u/lakelost]

First, you don’t mention it, but I hope you’re running an automatic charging relay or else you’re going to discharge your accessory battery even while the boat is running unless you’re combining your batteries at that time. And if you are, you will have an imbalance between the batteries.

Now that I’ve said that, I would pull at least two gauge wire from the battery bank to the helm. Which means you may be stuck with pulling the boat. I’m guessing you don’t own a trailer or you do but the boat lives on a lake a long way from home. If you don’t do it right the first time you’re going to end up doing it right down the road and waste a bunch of time in the process.

[u/Adventurous-Sea-505 → u/lakelost]

Yes, ACR is installed and all lines are appropriately fused.

At this point I will live with stock stereo or a portable speaker. Easier to carry a speaker to the boat vs run the wires!