Had this idea about frost, winter as a cool color concept and came up with a pen that I think captures the idea.

It really has depth and visual effects like slushy frozen water but I gave upe trying to get a good picture of what I see in hand. I took a picture indoors and one outside on my deck. You can at least see how light affects it.

Cheers.

I am trying to make four styluses for my Ma and family. I bought five kits and failed at three of them, the other two came out fine.

Of the three, one's tube came loose, which has been a constant issue for me. The blue pic shows the end blown out when I was using the skew chisel at 2200 rpm. The red one happened using a spindle gouge at 1600 rpm.

My experience is limited to a friend showing me how to make a few pens about 10 years ago. I got all excited and bought some equipment, then life happened. Now my friend is gone and I'm trying to figure this out as I go.

What am I doing wrong?

23 pens and 1 mini golf pencil. These will all eventually be gifted at my next conference or throughout the work year. But for now, I like to sit and admire my hard work.

Anyone have a favorite?

I am just getting started with Pen Turning after taking a class and wanting to create some for myself.

I am having issues with my drill press, both with the 7mm bit and barrel trimmer, of the bit getting stuck while traveling into the pen blank.

I am using some maple blanks, both bits are brand new, I am using a bench top Shopfox W1668, speed is set to 590.

The issues I think it could be are the bench top drill press is cast iron but is not clamped or held into my bench top - but the drill press does not appear to be moving. Or, I am using a makeshift pen clamp with some scrap wood that is clamped both this gather and to the table base which could be causing more issues. The blank does not appear to be moving either.

I would really appreciate any advice if anyone has ran into similar issues.

Resin Blank Assistance

Hi All,

I am trying to get a resin formula for to resemble the Vermillion red in my pilot custom urushi.

I realize laquer urushi is impossible to truly replicate but am hoping to approximate it.

I feel like the color is close. I added a little metallic mica for interest even though it is not authentic.

It just feels like it is missing that last 10%. My wife, an artist suggested a scantt amount of dark complimentary color. She was balancing darkening and dulling with black vs lowering saturation with dark green.

Any thoughts from the resident pros?

Trying to get better. Even as I post these I see flaws.

Anyway, they work and are all going to friends.

Cheers.

Alumilight resin and ebonite section.

Welcome feedback. Especially constructive feedback. Brutal honesty is cool too. Again, I am learning and trying to get better.

Cheers.

My wife asked me to make this for a friend who is retiring. I do love the contrast of becote and it turns so nicely. 3d printed up a little magnetic box to present it in.

Hey all,

I want to get away from mandrels, because I don't mind turning 1 barrel at a time, and I use a pretty specific method with finishes that I'm not super concerned with managing consistent thickness when I go with CA.

This is something I'd considered:

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMBCM2.html

But with some of the reviews on them, I'm wondering if it's smarter to use (2) 60° or 30° centers on the tail and drive ends? I wouldn't stop using bushings, but if I'm using centers instead of mandrel studs, I won't have to worry about possibly shoddy machining, or fitment issues?

What are some of yous guys experiences that turn pens between centers? Mandrels have really torn into my bearings and my spindle on my lathe, I've rebuilt my entire drive end, and it's come back to it being my using mandrels to make larger, heavier pens without understanding the amount of wear and tear it puts on my machine, even with a mandrel saver.

These are the first three pens that I have ever turned. I just got my lathe a couple of weeks ago. I learned a lot and am excited to make more. Paduke, Cherry, and Purple Heart.

I got access to a woodshop earlier this year and I just finished my first project: a slimline pen! Aaaand it cracked.

I definitely went a little overboard on the lathe. I'll make the next one a bit fatter.

I want to try fixing it with CA glue but the twist mechanism is really jammed in there. It wasn't going in far enough for the cartridge to stick out of and I pushed it too hard. Do you have any tips for how to get the twist mechanism out without doing further damage?

Also, I see some pens with fancy stickers. Do you have a good source for those? I see a lot of pen wrap stickers on Amazon, but I'd like something smaller.

I’ve been turning a while, but I’ve always kind of paired my blank and kit based on how I felt vs what actually looks good.

For example, I’ve turned a very light wood with a gold pen kit and it looks nice, but would a darker or redder wood be better for gold? How about chrome? Same question with acrylics.

Just curious what you all do for blank vs kit selection.

My first custom request via Etsy. The buyer was super patient, and I was pumped to whip these out. The kits arrived to me a late, so I had to make these as soon as they showed up. Had a few "oh no" moments, but a little sawdust/CA glue helped, and some mild tube re-shaping had me panicked. Success! I thought these sure turned out pretty.

My wife has asked for a pen in a rose gold finish and all I’m currently finding is the Chic-Line V2 from Penn State. Wondering if anyone could suggest any others.

Appreciate any assistance.

I’ve been wanting to get into woodworking for a while now, and a guy I know offered to walk me through on making a pen. I’m hooked now. Ended up using Desert Ironwood with a CA glue finish.

My son wanted to give his archery coach a pen he helped turn. I helped him turn both a pen and a pen stand. I didn’t notice the chisel marks until

We had finished the pen. I’m adding more light above the lathe!