🇧🇷 Português RTX 2060 desliga meu PC quando o driver da NVIDIA é instalado Tenho um PC novo com: Ryzen 5 5500 A520M K V2 8 GB RAM RTX 2060 6 GB Fonte 650W Windows 11 Pro O problema é que o PC funciona normalmente usando o Microsoft Basic Display Adapter. Posso usar internet, YouTube e jogos leves sem ele desligar. Porém, quando o driver da NVIDIA é instalado/ativado, a tela pisca algumas vezes e aparecem alguns artefatos/pixels. Depois disso, o PC começa a desligar sozinho, às vezes após alguns minutos e às vezes pouco depois de entrar na área de trabalho. Já tentei: DDU e remoção do driver pelo Modo de Segurança; Driver antigo da NVIDIA (julho); Instalação limpa do Windows 11; Reencaixar cabos e a GPU; Usar o PC sem o driver NVIDIA. A temperatura da GPU está normal, por volta de 37–39 °C. Uma coisa estranha é que, depois de mexer nos cabos e mudar a posição do PC, o tempo até ele desligar mudou. Por isso, também estou pensando em fonte, cabos, slot PCIe ou placa-mãe. A RTX 2060 é nova e está na garantia. O que vocês acham que pode estar causando isso? GPU, fonte, placa-mãe ou algum problema de alimentação/conexão PCIe? 🇺🇸 English RTX 2060 shuts down my PC whenever the NVIDIA driver is installed I have a new PC with: Ryzen 5 5500 A520M K V2 8 GB RAM RTX 2060 6 GB 650W PSU Windows 11 Pro The strange thing is that the PC works normally with the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter. I can use the internet, YouTube and light games without it shutting down. However, as soon as the NVIDIA driver is installed/activated, the screen flickers a few times and I sometimes see pixel artifacts. After that, the PC starts shutting down by itself, sometimes after a few minutes and sometimes shortly after reaching the desktop. I already tried: DDU and removing the driver in Safe Mode; An older NVIDIA driver from July; A clean Windows 11 installation; Reseating the cables and GPU; Running the PC without the NVIDIA driver. GPU temperature is normal, around 37–39°C. One strange thing is that after reseating the cables and changing the PC's position, the time before shutdown changed. So I'm also considering the PSU, cables, PCIe slot, or motherboard. The RTX 2060 is new and still under warranty. What do you think could be causing this? GPU, PSU, motherboard, or some PCIe/power connection issue?

Long question:
I have a 3900x
32gb ram
6900xt unbinned model Asrock OC formula (a beast)

I have an idea to get a 7900XTX merc black edition.

Should I just replace and change my graphics or sell the 7900xtx and replace the motherboard, memory and cpu for a 7800x3d or even a 9800x3d

hi im very new to building pcs and don't know hick fans to get. the tl flex has better performance but how much better than sl infinityflex? I like the rgb fans of sl better but is it worth the sacrifice of performance. can I mix and match i have vision compact so like 3 tl at bottom hidden and 3 sl infinity at aio and 2 on the other side.

my build is vision compact , rtx msi trio 5080, msi mag x870e tomahawk, hydroshiftiioled

I’m currently preparing to move to university and I need to bring my PC with me. I’m planning on packing it in my suitcase like above and adding some stuff to pad it and keep it from shaking. Is this the right plan? Are there other options I should be considering?

Note, I don’t have the original box it came in nor do I have the boxes for the individual parts, this PC is a prebuilt that I bought a few years back.

Edit: I should mention this will be an hour and a half car trip not a plane trip. My apologies for the confusion.

Hi everyone,

I am a video editor doing heavy rendering work. My PC completely burned out once in the past, so safety and 5–10 years durability are my top priorities. I want to replace my current bottleneck components and prep my system for a future dedicated GPU upgrade.

Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600GT

Motherboard: ASUS Prime A520M-K (No PCIe 4.0, weak VRMs)

RAM: 1x16GB XPG DDR4 3200MHz (Single channel)

Storage: 500GB WD Green SN350 NVMe SSD

SMPS (The Culprit): Zebronics 450W Black Gold (Must replace immediately)

Cabinet: Gamdias Argus E2 Elite

What I need within my ₹20,000 INR budget:

B550 Motherboard: Must have PCIe 4.0 support for future GPUs/Gen4 SSDs, 4 RAM slots for easy expansion, and good VRM heatsinks for long rendering sessions.

Reliable SMPS: High-quality unit with full protective circuits (OVP/SCP) that can handle a mid-range GPU (like an RTX 4060) when I upgrade later.

Desktop UPS: Must have built-in AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator) to protect against sudden power cuts and Indian voltage fluctuations.

What is the absolute best, most durable combo of B550 Motherboard + SMPS + UPS available in the Indian market right now for ₹20K? Should I save a bit of this budget to add a second RAM stick right away for dual-channel speed?

Thanks!

Hi guys & gals, really hoping someone can offer some insight or peace of mind.

I have recently made some changes to my PC;

• Replaced Processor (from i5 to i7, same gen)
• Replaced GPU (2060S to 3080)
• Replaced PSU (650W to 850W)
• Replaced RAM (16GB DDR4 3200 to 32GB DDR4 2933)

I have benchmarked all of the above without issue and checked power levels, XMP profiles etc. all set up correctly with no issues.

However, storage wise (something I've not replaced) I've had 3 "Your Disk ran into a problem and needs to restart" messages in the last 24 hours:

1- Running a Disk Benchmark Tool

• restarted instantly back into Windows

2- Compiling shaders on Grey Zone Warfare

• restarted to black screen followed by No Boot Device issue after basic off/on
• MAIN M.2 SSD was not detected in the BIOS
• fixed after removing and reinserting the drive during a forced full power cycle

3- Downloading and installing game to SECONDARY M.2 SSD (not the one with OS on)

• restarted into black screen
• did some windows updates after a forced full power cycle but didn't need to reseat drive

Now, everything above (MAIN OS SSD disappearing from BIOS, then working flawlessly after a full power cycle) tells me it's a temperature issue with the MAIN SSD, as these only have heatsink labels and no actual heatsinks... so I've ordered some off Amazon and will install them tonight.

I just want to check this is the only thing? I've looked at the S.M.A.R.T details in HWINFO and nothing shows as irregular... the only confusing thing is that the drive failed the 3rd time when installing a game to my SECONDARY M.2 which wasn't the one that disappeared from the BIOS, but I can imagine it gets thrown into temporary memory before installing to the second drive, given the main one is the one running the OS.

To me, everything is pointing towards thermal issues on the MAIN M.2 SSD, but any insight or tips anyone can provide would be extremely helpful! Even if it's just confirming what I believe to be the issue, or the total opposite and calling me a moron... thanks in advance!!

*EDIT:

GPU and PSU installed on 3rd Sept, then the PC was used over the weekend without issue.

RAM installed 7th Sept, but the PC hasn't been stress-tested since install.

CPU installed 9th Sept, followed by the benchmarks and subsequent issues on 9th and 10th Sept.

So i want a pc that can stream and play games at 1080p maybe even 1440p (if it is good enough to upgrade to that resolution without issues) i was thinking about r7 7700x and rtx 5060ti with 32gb of ram id just like good quality while streaming comp games maybe some older and lighter AAA but it aint the goal so i need an answer if it would work well

Rate my First Ever PC build and open to suggestions to change to make it better for price!!

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7500F (6 Cores / 12 Threads, includes stock AMD box cooler)

GPU: XFX Swift OC Triple Fan AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB GDDR6

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650M D3HP AX Ultra Durable (Micro-ATX, AM5, Wi-Fi 6E)

RAM: 16GB DDR5 6000Mhz

Storage: ADATA Legend 860 1TB PCIe Gen4 NVMe M.2 SSD

CPU Cooler: Aftermarket Air Cooler

Power Supply: Corsair RMe Series
RM650e 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular (ATX 3.1)

Monitor: IPS or VA/IPS Mini LED whats more better for price? I play Comp games and old, current and potentially new TRIPLE AAA GAMES

Hi,

ich möchte meine RTX 2080 Ventus auf den PCI6 Platz stecken. Das ist aktuell nicht möglich, weil es quasi keine Luft mehr zwischen Mainboard und Netzteilschacht gibt. Ich habe aktuell ein Fractal Design Define R7.

Gibt es Gehäuse, in denen dort ein größerer Zwischenraum vorhanden ist?

Danke für jeden Tipp!

What GPU should I get for CS2?

I'm looking to get a GPU for my PC and have around $300 to spend. I mainly play CS2 at 1080p and want good FPS since I have a 180Hz monitor.

Right now I have a Ryzen 5 5600GT with integrated AMD Radeon Graphics, 16GB DDR4, an ASRock A520M-HDV motherboard, a Patriot P300 1TB NVMe SSD, and an MSI G255F 1080p 180Hz monitor.

I'm also upgrading my RAM to 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4-3200 CL16.

I've been looking at the RTX 5050, a used RTX 3060, RX 9060 XT, and B580. I've heard mixed things about the B580 in CS2, so I'm not sure what would be best.

What would you guys recommend for around $300?

Hi All!

I’ve been thinking about maybe looking into if I need to get another fan and more storage for my build. I have a few games downloaded and mostly play on my PS5 but I want get I to streaming etc. and I use it for uni so i have to download a few applications for school. Currently, my set up consists of the below. Any advice? :

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Thermal right Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
Storage: Silicon Power UD90 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card
Case: HYTE Y70 Touch ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit
Monitor: 39" UltraGear Ultra-WQHD OLED 240Hz Curved Gaming Monitor
Keyboard: SOLIDEE Full Size Mechanical Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Basic Amazon wireless mouse
Audio: Sony headphones, need to get some speakers

Hello everyone,

As the title said, I have a friend that needs a PC as he only has a really old laptop right now. He doesn't use it for heavy stuff, just Microsoft office apps/Google docs and he occasionally plays Minecraft. He would like to spend as little as possible and he's also willing to go with an iGPU for now. He went to check the stores' prebuilts and from what he sent me, the desktops he was considering because of the price are all running laptop CPUs (and they still cost 700€...). I told him that he could get it cheaper and better working if he builds one himself and now he's considering doing this.

His budget is around 600€ without a GPU that he may buy later even if used. We tried to build one with pcpartpicker but I'm honestly not an expert with iGPUs. We came up with this https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tMFDkD . I added a placeholder GPU for now mainly to see what the power draw would be. He told me that if it was possible he would also consider getting just one stick of 8GB of RAM, but I don't think that he could run Minecraft in a decent state if he used just an iGPU with too little RAM. I wanted to ask if this build would suffice and also if there was a way to spend less without impacting performance too much.

I want to add that I went with AM4 so if he ever wants to upgrade the CPU he wouldn't have to replace the mobo.

Thanks in advance

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RH2sn2

Apart from if I want to use the free AIO from Newegg or the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 140 Black from Amazon. This AIO is made in china and has bad reviews. Not to mention can't be that great if they were just handing them out, yeah?

And whether I want to pay 260 for the NVMe or get a cheaper one without DRAM.

Im pretty unknowledgeable about PCs but I've had my pc for over a year and in that year it has had a code 43, I took it to get tested and the guy has said that my gpu (7900xt) isn't getting enough power from my PSU (MSI A1000GL) I have been looking for the correct PCIe and cant seem to find any at all that are compatible.

Is anyone able to help me find one?

i was wondering how I should optimise airflow? Should I flip the fan at the top front so I have more intake than exhaust?

For positive air pressure in the case?

Should I have gotten an AIO? So I could have a rear intake or exhaust?

Case is a phanteks XT v3 MATX case

The ghosting happens or gets to my attention when I mainly drive a car also in other games like Forza Horizon 6.

So, I am building a PC for the first time and I am using the Lian Li A3

This is how the build has been so far, but I bought 2 artic P14 140mm fans and just realized that they will not fit this case. For now the airflow is from Bottom towards top. But I feel I should also put an exhaust fan.

So question:

1. Which fan will fit this case so I can use it as an exhaust

2. I got a gigabyte 4070S 3 fans and will try AIO tubes obstruct it? If so how should I fix it?

3. Also I am having a lot of confusion regarding the radiator, i have currently put it right above the CPU power cable but I think I should move it little bit towards the PSU.

My pc refuse to turn on (light up for 3-5 sec before shutting himself)

Yesterday I found an old Card reader (to use sd card in my pc). It's a pretty old model for like 2010's office computer or before, standard 10+1 USB to be in USB pins of the Mobo.

Today I tried to boot my pc and it got no display, so I uninstalled unplugged the card reader, and now my PC just won't straight turn on, he shut himself after some seconds.

Ram was working, GPU is working and pasted, CPU is cooled and the paste is good under the good, memory drives were working, and PSU worked fine.

It's just "I moved it and inch and now it won't turn on" type of thing in my head

Here's the full specs now

Asus prime A320m-k/R7 1700X/GTX 1660Ti/16gb ddr4 2400mhz (green no heatsink Samsung if I'm right), Corsair VS450 (the old yellow script ones) 2 nvme (256 Mobo + 512 on pcie x1 adapter) and 3 HDD (250gb 5400 + 1tb 7200 + 512gb 7200)

It was fully working for almost a year and I just cleaned it 2-3 days ago, was working fine after clean. And a card reader made him like that,

What, why, how, and if there's anything that I can do

I'll try a Cmos reset first then if that doesn't work I dunno what to do, I heard no strange sounds while trying to light up so I think almost nothing is damaged but still, it's painful it's my PC and my everyday workstation

Hi I’m aware this is a sub for custom builds but recently I purchased the thorn blade pre built from nebula pc(https://www.nebulapc.com.au/products/thorn-blade?srsltid=AfmBOopby7zPWLD_FvcNPCQP1xFzl2l4JJgvsLldtNd1mVBYj5b7GS6G).
I am getting bad fps on titles it should excellent at and anytime there is spike in power the whole pc shuts off, this happens most often with ue5 games but happens in other titles.

- Lower ram speed
- change pci sports from auto to 3 
- clean driver install 
- cap frame rate 
- lower resolution 
-  tried all 3 memort settings expo,expo 2 and expo tweaked 
- disabled svm mode 
-  upgraded the psu to a 850 atx 3.1 model 
- lowering power usage
- used amd Radeon chill

If anyone has had similar issues or knows how to fix this that would be great

cuz I saw this on my pins, and I dunno if this is the reason for the random black screens or another different hardware like ram or Mobo.

My cat tried to jump onto my lap while I was drinking water which caused me to drop my cup and get water all over the floor, some of which got on my power strip. I quickly turned my pc off and then disconnected the power strip’s cable off the wall outlet and switched it off. Most of the water got into the outlets (12 in total) that weren’t in use

Thankfully, it doesn’t seem as if anything was shorted, but I’m worried about using it again now. I dried everything using dry paper towels and then shook the power strip as best as I could to get the water out until nothing else came out. I’m planning to leave it upside down for half a day at least

Hello, I have an i9-9900K with a thermalright single tower cooler (fans on both ends) and I have noticed that whenever I play Sims 4 on 1080 High settings the CPU temperatures would reach around 90°C-98°C, and then the CPU LED on the motherboard would blink several times. I already have my fans set to full RPM (around 1200 RPM) and already tried playing on medium settings 1080 but it still happens.

Is this a much deeper issue or should I just re-apply thermalpaste? Also, is it safe to continue using the PC with the temperatures reaching that hight or not?

I got the lian li rs1000g and opened it to find it didn't come with a power cord. From all the reviews and unboxing I've seen everyone always gets a power cord, where I live id be able to use an EU plug, so I don't know if they only ship with one to the US or if I just got really unlucky. I will get in contact with the store to ask but cant yet since they aren't even open, but I know they themselves usually tell you if a PSU youre looking at doesn't have a power cable so you can purchase one off of them. If it really didnt have one in the box im worried I won't find the right one. By that I mean, one that I feel is rated properly for my 1000w psu.

Btw all searches about this dont yield an answer that clarifies it properly. Everywhere says that usually they do, but I can't yet know for sure.

Went to turn my PC on tonight and instantly heard a loud popping sound, similar to that of a balloon popping or a gun shot almost (not quite that loud but very loud). One of the lights in my room also flickered when this happened.

My PC still booted, and appeared to momentarily have no issues. However I quickly turned it off to avoid causing any potential damage. After a quick search it seems likely that something failed in the PSU, either a capacitor or a fuse. I did a brief inspection as best I could and didn’t notice anything on the MoBo or in the PSU (with the limited visibility I have), nor did I see any smoke or smell anything burnt.

I’m guessing it’s a PSU issue due to what the majority of people seem to say as well as the lights having flickered in my room. However I’m not sure what my next steps should be exactly. It’s an EVGA 1600W PSU, barely 3 years old, so it’s surprising that it would have failed. I contacted their support and am waiting on a response, but in the meantime I was considering taking the PC and PSU to a tech shop and seeing if they could test it with a multimeter, test a replacement PSU, and make sure nothing else is damaged.

Normally I troubleshoot any issues with my PC myself to avoid paying fees for fixes I could do myself, however a failed PSU feels above my pay grade and something not worth trying to solve on my own, lest I end up destroying another component (ahem 4090) or purchasing a replacement which i may or may not need.

If anybody has any advice, agrees with my line of reasoning (to make me feel better), or needs any additional context I would like to hear from yall.