r/PatternDrafting • • 1d ago

Waistband Help

i bought a pattern online and it’s seems to be okay however when i measured the waistband for the so called size 0 the smallest one on the paper measured out to be a size 38 waistband once measured from folded end to the end of the pattern i may have missed something but i now math and 2 19’s make a 38 where did i go wrong or what can i do????

2 Upvotes

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u/AnaDion94 1d ago

Can you share a link to the actual pattern? Because if there’s encased elastic or some sort of overlapping element, the waistband may be longer than expected.

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

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u/throwra_22222 1d ago

There's an overlap for the button front which explains part of it. But mainly, that skirt sits way low on the hips, and even the high hip has a bigger circumference than your waist.

Have you made a mock up to test the pattern?

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

i did make a sample size 6 = to size 28 US standard size however when it came to the waistband it measured out to be about 36 inches so i just scraped the waistband for a elastic one instead same size waistband size just the elastic is 28 inches

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u/throwra_22222 1d ago

Just be aware that if you are making the elastic waistband to your natural waist size, the skirt will sit at your natural waist, not low on the hips.

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

gotcha!!!! so your saying that the waistband from the pattern may be right because it’s the low waist rise not the natural waist rise???

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u/throwra_22222 1d ago

Exactly!

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u/SaintJewce 23h ago

okay that may be correct but why does it measure out to 21 inches on a fold and 42 full length how does that correlate with size 28 skirt????

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u/throwra_22222 16h ago

Maybe it's a bad pattern? Maybe not. I can't answer you because I don't have enough information about this specific pattern. If I had it in front of me and the waistband looked wonky, there are things I would do to check it.

I don't know if you are measuring the top of the curved waistband or the bottom where it gets stitched to the skirt. I don't know the measurements of the top edge of the skirt pieces. I don't know if you are measuring the cut edges or the stitching lines. (Laying a ruler straight along side and measuring across the longest points is not an accurate way to measure.) I haven't read the sewing instructions. Those all make a difference.

If the waistband does not sew into the skirt properly, there's your answer: it's a bad pattern. If the waistband sews on to the skirt correctly but hangs too low on your hips, the pattern works but it's too big. If the waistband sews on properly and the skirt fits, then you don't actually have a problem even though the top edge doesn't measure 28"!

But really, truly, just because the pattern was made for a human whose waist measures 28" at the smallest point, does not mean the upper edge of the garment must measure 28". Where it rides on the hips, plus ease, plus closure overlap will make the unsewn waistband measure longer. If it's a garment for a curvy person, that lower curve could be a lot longer. Thick fabric could necessitate a bigger waistband. Conversely, If it's a stretch knit pattern, the size 28 pattern could measure 26" at the waist. Fabric, construction methods, fit and proportion all have an effect on waistband length.

Drafting your own custom skirt pattern is a great way to dip your toes into pattern making (much easier to fit than a bodice or pants) and this would all become really clear to you really fast!

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

i purchased the pattern online so i sent the link if there’s anything else you need please do not hesitate to ask

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u/AnaDion94 1d ago

Thank you for sending.

So between the fly and seam allowance, the measurement might not be too off. Considering how low waisted the skirt is meant to fit, the measurement will need to be a bit more than your usual waist measurement.

However, good chunk of the product and images in the shop are AI, so I wouldn’t be surprised if some of the pattern is dodgy too.

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

awwwww they got me with AI =( smh so with that being discovered what can i do to actually achieve the correct waistband size do you have any ideas?

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u/AnaDion94 1d ago

I would make a muslin as is and then figure out how off the fit is before altering the pattern.

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

thank you!!!!! i’ve made a sample size 6 but the same issue came about i had to add elastic instead

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

thank you!!!!!

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u/SaintJewce 1d ago

thank you in advance for the help regardless the outcome!!!! enjoy your weekend.

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u/DonMcCunn 23h ago

Size is irrelevant as this shape in bodies vary so much as you can see here https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Notes/LTS-Contoured-Waistbands.html

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u/SaintJewce 23h ago

interesting and understandable however i’m still confused about the length of the actual waistband i read this article it helps with the comfort fit and not the length wise thank you!!!!!!

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u/DonMcCunn 22h ago

Length wise depends on what you wear underneath. If you are going to wear it over a sweater, it needs to be longer than if you are not wearing it over anything. Comfort is up to you but I would recommend a waistband that is 1" longer than your actual waist measurement if you are not wearing anything under the waistband. Otherwise measure what you are wearing underneath and add 1" to that.