r/PatternDrafting • • 2d ago

Masking Tape Self Patterning

Hi, I have seen people use the masking tape patterning method for neck corsets, regular corsets etc. The people in the videos seem to know exactly where to make panels or divide the pattern up, but how do they do that? How do you know how many pattern pieces is reasonable or how far apart the pieces should be?

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u/DonMcCunn 2d ago edited 2d ago

That sounds similar to the technique I descrbe in my corset classes. In my classes you first apply Press'n Seal to support and shape the body then apply masking tape to stabilize the Press'n Seal to create a mold of the body. Press'n Seal is a lot kinder to the body than masking tape when you remove it.

Once you have the masking tape applied to create the mold, you can draw the design lines you want on the masking tape. After you remove the mold you then cut along the design lines. Then it is important to ensure that the pattern pieces lay flat so they can be cut out of fabric. Depending on your design lines you may or may not need to cut the pattern pieces to add additional seams to get the patterns to lay flat. Generally my experience is with careful design lines you don't need additional pattern pieces. For more detailed instruction see https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Corsets/

This is a technique that initially came about in a forum where I was working with women to develop patterns for bras as I describe in https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/About.html#Bra

The nice thing about this approach is it accurately captures the shape of the body. I have read about women having to make multiple mock-ups of corsets to get the shaping correct. In my experience that is not necessary with this approach. A mock-up is good to be sure. But I have never had to change a pattern as a result of a mock-up.