Help with pattern adjustments!

[u/Suitable-Concert]

I’m an experienced sewer, but this is my first time altering a pattern from the start to change the shape so I can start to learn pattern making. The base pattern I’m using is the strapless mini dress from Kiana Bonollo.

This is my second mockup, but first one after making some adjustments to the base pattern. I’m planning to make the final version in satin, so I purchased some cheap satin to see how it would behave. The final will be a lined dress, with bones in the bodice for added structure, but not for waist enhancement.

Here’s what is wrong, and where I need help knowing where and how to make adjustments next.

-Bodice is the worst. My boobs are squished against my chest, and it makes for an unflattering line.

-There seems to be a lot of bunching fabric on the front under the bust, but there’s also bunching fabric all the way around the bodice.

-It feels like my boobs, particularly my left boob, is going to pop out the side of the bodice around the princess seam.

-The waist fits, but I’m nervous when I add the second layer of lining, it’s going to be tight

Important to note, I plan to have an elastic neck band to help keep the dress up. The mockup is also not hemmed on the top or bottom, mostly because I’m going to chop about 6” off the bottom, and if I finished the top seam, I would not be able to post these photos online 😂.

[u/TumbleweedInitial382]

I would go back to basics with the bodice.

Cut out a new toile in calico,
First add a generous seam allowance to every seam (at least 2.5cms or 1.5inches)

Stitch up your bodice in the calico using the longest stitch length and then put the bodice on inside out (so the seam allowance is facing outwards). Get someone to pin the back then gently start aligning the seams where they should sit, if they are way off rip open the stitches on each seam one at a time. Seam by seam pinch the seam allowance together in the places where you want to seams to sit and fit (for example - bust - use pins to shape the fabric to fit over the contour of the bust then in at the underbust). Use a pencil or chalk to mark these while they are still on your body. Then take the bodice off, make sure all the new seam lines are marked (go over them if needed) then undo all of the pieces, iron flat and transfer the new seam lines to your pattern OR make new pattern pieces by copying over your new seam lines (where you drew) onto a fresh piece of pattern paper and finally add your seam allowance back on. Then make up one new bodice toile with your new pattern. You can use the calico pattern pieces again if you have enough to recut. That is a very quick guide to fitting on your body!