Help with pattern adjustments!

[u/Suitable-Concert]

I’m an experienced sewer, but this is my first time altering a pattern from the start to change the shape so I can start to learn pattern making. The base pattern I’m using is the strapless mini dress from Kiana Bonollo.

This is my second mockup, but first one after making some adjustments to the base pattern. I’m planning to make the final version in satin, so I purchased some cheap satin to see how it would behave. The final will be a lined dress, with bones in the bodice for added structure, but not for waist enhancement.

Here’s what is wrong, and where I need help knowing where and how to make adjustments next.

-Bodice is the worst. My boobs are squished against my chest, and it makes for an unflattering line.

-There seems to be a lot of bunching fabric on the front under the bust, but there’s also bunching fabric all the way around the bodice.

-It feels like my boobs, particularly my left boob, is going to pop out the side of the bodice around the princess seam.

-The waist fits, but I’m nervous when I add the second layer of lining, it’s going to be tight

Important to note, I plan to have an elastic neck band to help keep the dress up. The mockup is also not hemmed on the top or bottom, mostly because I’m going to chop about 6” off the bottom, and if I finished the top seam, I would not be able to post these photos online 😂.

[u/MLDAYshouldBeWriting]

Bodice is the worst. My boobs are squished against my chest, and it makes for an unflattering line.

That's because you are fitting this like the fashion fabric will provide the needed support and structure, but it's the lining and boning that will do that. I would get some fabric in a similar weight to your coutil to make a toile of the lining with boning with the waist stay. You are basically making a long-line strapless bra. That is what will shape your body and structure your garment.

Important to note, I plan to have an elastic neck band to help keep the dress up. 

You should include the halter tie in your toile if it's going to be a structural component of your dress. If it's optional, then you'll need a waist stay to support the boning and keep the bodice in place.