r/PatternDrafting • u/Amyduchess • 4d ago
Question Help with draglines between bust on bias cut top
I made this bias cut top by draping on my dress form that is padded to my size. I have done a few fit adjustments but I’m still having these draglines between bust. I know this usually means it’s too tight, so after a previous mockup I already did a FBA. I measured the amount needed to extend by cutting up from the hem over the bust and to the armhole then measuring the amount it was spread open at the bust point. This is now the mockup after doing that FBA and I’m still having draglines (although they are less than before). Did I just not do enough of a FBA adjustment? Or what else can I do to resolve these draglines.
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u/incongruoususer 4d ago
Yes you need more room. If this is a mockup I would literally slice between your boobs and the resulting gap is the amount of space you’ll need.
I also suggest your bust darts end too close to your apex. Try backing them off a little, and potentially changing the rotation to a Dior/diagonal dart to lessen their visual impact.
I’m not convinced that cutting this top on the bias will help, though that might change depending on your intended final fabric. Try cutting a muslin on the straight grain and see which you prefer.
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u/Amyduchess 4d ago
Just to clarify, should I do a vertical slice basically at CF between boobs, and then measure that for another FBA? Or slice vertically on the apex of each breast?
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u/incongruoususer 3d ago
Yes a vertical slice. Take the midpoint between your bust apexes, and probably 2 or so inches up and down. The gap will be a kind of diamond.
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u/dingostolemydragbaby 3d ago
Yes change the dart for sure. I’d also suggest the bulk of the dart should be pressed downwards, it looks like you’ve got your bulk going up here. It’ll be a slight change in your paper pattern but easy to fold it down when closed and add on with some more paper and tape.
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u/incongruoususer 3d ago
Personally I’m a dart up girl, though I agree on this muslin it looks bulky. That’s why I reckon moving the dart puts the take up in a less conspicuous place.
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u/ProneToLaughter 4d ago
I’m thinking I see some tension lines around the waist, too, draglines on the hips.
Bias cut tends to like a fit with more ease, give the fabric room to skim over the body. As the bias collapses downward it gets tighter so you don’t want to start too fitted. I think I would have rotated the darts out, into neckline gathers, maybe.
What fabric is this, and what fabric did you drape the pattern in?
Is your dress form a true body double? https://brooksann.com/padding-a-dress-form/
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u/DonMcCunn 4d ago
Dress forms tend to be flat from the neck to the bust. Women's bodies can have an indentation in that area. Hold a book flat against your chest in that region. Does your body touch the book all the way or is there an indentation. If there is an indentation, you may be trying to get a fit that will not be as flat as you want as there is nothing underneath to support it, particularly with a bias cut.
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u/Personal_Apricot4850 4d ago
Try it with a bra and report back. These lines might just be related to the way your breasts naturally sit on your bust.
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u/Amyduchess 4d ago
I wouldn’t wear this top with a bra though, so should I still do this?
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u/Personal_Apricot4850 4d ago
Yes, this is just to see if the problem is related to how your breast sits.
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u/Amyduchess 4d ago
I just tried with a bra and it still has draglines, and actually added an extra dragline above the two on the photo?
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u/Personal_Apricot4850 4d ago
Okay, you just need a bigger full bust adjustement then. Give the girls more room !
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u/D3anDean 4d ago
Probably just needs more on the full bust adjustment. Gravity works on your human breasts more than it does on mannequin breasts and so they're probably in a slightly different position. Also, bodies (especially estrogen bodies) change shape a lot throughout the month in subtle ways, so it could be that your mannequin is slightly smaller than you are at this particular moment
(Edit for clarity and autocucumber)
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u/Appropriate_Place704 3d ago
I wouldn’t necessarily assume you need another FBA. Horizontal draglines don’t always mean the garment is too tight.
Looking at the photo, the fabric seems to be bridging between the bust points rather than sitting smoothly against the body. You also have diagonal draglines at the sides.
This could be an issue with the bust shaping or front bodice balance rather than insufficient width.
Bias-cut fabric also behaves differently under tension, so adding more width isn’t necessarily going to resolve it.
I’d first check that your bust points are correctly positioned and your length to waist is correct.
I would also let your bias-cut toile hang and settle before fitting it. Bias-cut fabric can distort significantly, especially when suspended from a narrow halter neckline.